D4HighDesert Report post Posted June 5, 2021 I have about 160 pieces of old Remington and Winchester Western 7mm rem mag brass. I am curious as to what the quality of this old brass is like compared to new Winchester and Remington. I understand newer brass is considered soft and not as well made but is that also true for old Winchester and Remington brass or was it made better back then like other things? I’ve attached a picture of the boxes to demonstrate their age since I don’t actually know the year or anything. Any input is appreciated! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HuntHike61 Report post Posted June 5, 2021 Dunno about relative quality of decades old brass construction versus new, but the reusability is all about inspection of the brass. Hotly loaded rounds can ruin even new brass (back then, and today), and over worked brass can be a problem as well. Light loads with proper resizing- the brass could last 10 times over easy. Tumble the brass, and inspect it for separation, hot loads (via primer inspection), dents and splits. Not sure if this is what you were looking for or not... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
D4HighDesert Report post Posted June 5, 2021 That is certainly a helpful answer and pretty much what I was wondering. I think the way you pose it as reusability is much more appropriate than just general quality. Thank you! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
firstcoueswas80 Report post Posted June 5, 2021 Don't forget to add annealing in the mix. My 28 nosler brass is on its 4th go round with a not-so mild, but not super hot load. I anneal every other firing, and I haven't lost one yet. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
D4HighDesert Report post Posted June 5, 2021 2 hours ago, firstcoueswas80 said: Don't forget to add annealing in the mix. My 28 nosler brass is on its 4th go round with a not-so mild, but not super hot load. I anneal every other firing, and I haven't lost one yet. Do you use any particular annealing machine or just heat the necks with a torch for a few 6-8 seconds? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
firstcoueswas80 Report post Posted June 5, 2021 I use the torch/drill method 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nighthawk Report post Posted June 5, 2021 I’m on my 6 or 7th reload on my 300rum RP brass. Mild load and neck size with bumped shoulder at 6th reload. Still looks and works great 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lancetkenyon Report post Posted June 6, 2021 I use Rem R-P brass for my 7RM with up to 10 firings on it & .300RUM, all bought in 1999 with up to 10 firings on it, and .243 brass necked up for my 6.5SLR with anywhere from 3 to 15 firings on it. Almost all still going strong. Only lost a few, and not running mild loads in any of it. I think it lasts better than most of the newer Nosler brass I have tried. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
D4HighDesert Report post Posted June 6, 2021 31 minutes ago, lancetkenyon said: I use Rem R-P brass for my 7RM with up to 10 firings on it & .300RUM, all bought in 1999 with up to 10 firings on it, and .243 brass necked up for my 6.5SLR with anywhere from 3 to 15 firings on it. Almost all still going strong. Only lost a few, and not running mild loads in any of it. I think it lasts better than most of the newer Nosler brass I have tried. That’s great to hear. Are you annealing it as well? I’ve got 100 pieces of Norma brass but I figured if there weren’t any major accuracy differences than I may as well cycle these in branded batches to reduce the number of reloads on it all. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Delw Report post Posted June 6, 2021 I been loading the same brass in 22-250-300 win mag and a ton of stuff in the middle since the early 80's. Safely say my 300 winmag brass has been shot more than 10 times. the 243 22-250 and 220swft brass easy over 10 times. when I go through a batch I maybe throw away 5-10 cases of each cal thats it. all the small stuff 22-250-243 I have 2-3k rounds of each. the 300 winmag 800-1k rounds never anneled only trimmed and fl resized. but the 223 brass which I have 5k rounds of brass for doesnt last very long, probably because most it is new stuff. the PMC stuff lasts for ever and the older brass does, but the newer last 10 years brass of the .223 doesnt last more than 5 reloads I think because its out of ar's, lots of stretching. my 308 Springfield Amory M1A1 same deal 5-6 loads but the bolt guns last forever on older brass 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HuntHike61 Report post Posted June 6, 2021 I don't shoot ARs, but maybe folks typically full length size those? That would reduce their life. I reload only for bolt actions- and do not full length size those once they are fire formed for my particular rifle, which increases brass life. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lancetkenyon Report post Posted June 6, 2021 I run all my AR brass through a small base die. Even tighter than a typical FL die. But, they feed flawlessly,and with about 8000pcs, not too worried about brass life. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
D4HighDesert Report post Posted June 7, 2021 On 6/5/2021 at 3:01 PM, firstcoueswas80 said: I use the torch/drill method What do you use to chuck the brass in the drill? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lancetkenyon Report post Posted June 7, 2021 11 hours ago, D4HighDesert said: What do you use to chuck the brass in the drill? Deep socket slightly bigger than case diameter, and short enough to leave the top 1/3 of the case exposed. Drop the case in the deep socket, which also acts as a heat sink to keep the temps off the head. Then tip it upside down and let the case drop in a SS bowl to cool. No need to quench in water. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
D4HighDesert Report post Posted June 8, 2021 On 6/7/2021 at 9:18 AM, lancetkenyon said: Deep socket slightly bigger than case diameter, and short enough to leave the top 1/3 of the case exposed. Drop the case in the deep socket, which also acts as a heat sink to keep the temps off the head. Then tip it upside down and let the case drop in a SS bowl to cool. No need to quench in water. Good deal thank you, I am going to give that a try tonight with a little tempilaq. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites