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The spin of the bullet is slowing just like the velocity once the bullet leaves the muzzle. At 200 yds and say 2700 fps the bullet may be turning 200,000 rpm's and be fully stable, but at 800 yds and say 1800 fps might only be turning 150,000 rpm's and be slightly unstable. With a factory rifle your twist may just barely stabilize the bullet you want to shoot, but you can pick the optimal twist rate for your custom rifle to match perfect to the bullet you want. Also the way all the parts of a rifle fit together affect the vibrations when it's fired. I do not fully understand this, but I know it causes weird thing to happen to accuracy. I have a old almost factory hunting rifle that will not shoot better than 3/4 moa at 100 yds, but I can shoot 1/2 moa at 800 yds all day long

I tried the same thing. Can not seem to break the habit of wanting to pull the pump back after every shot. Ended up going back to a model 12. This one is an early 50's model, vent rib etc. Just want something newer, have a Franchi 28g so looking to get a 12g, mostly for dove. I have a 12, 16, and 20 and have been working on talking a uncle out of his 28.

I tried the same thing. Can not seem to break the habit of wanting to pull the pump back after every shot. Ended up going back to a model 12.

Once you crack the 1000 yard mark then the game changes. The 338 lapua just crushes everything. The 6.5's and the 7MM have no business being shot past 100 yards at critters. Their KE just isn't there. Though in all honesty it is just about impossible to have a cold bore, first shot hit a WT deer at 1000+ yards. A ton of variables to consider that the average hunter doesn't even know to evaluate let alone how to compensate for the variables. But, it is a ton of fun to dump lead at those distances. Doing it at a competition and on paper really changes how you look at every shot. Frequently bullets move 6-18 inches and you wonder why. If your using a 7x57 pushing a round nose bullet I'd agree. A 28 Nosler pushing the 195 eol in the average conditions I hunt in is around 1800 ft lbs and in excess of 2000 fps. My 270WSM with a 170 eol is around 1500 ft lbs and 2000 fps. Both are more than capable of knocking a coues on his a$$ @ 1000 yds. My 22-250 AI pushing a 95 gr smk will be around 2000 fps and almost 900 ft lbs which will still destroy a coues.

Of the two you mentioned I would pick the Leupold. I've had several of the older non hd VX-6 3-18x44 scopes. I've never had any issue with repeatability. I haven't done any of the box tests or anything like that but it's been dialed back and fourth between around 20 moa and 0 probably 100 times and 0 is still 0. As far as glass goes the non hd compared very favorably to my nightforce 5-25x56 ATACR. The nightforce did have a slight advantage in low light but it had the advantage of a 56 mm lens too. Other than low light the Leupold was better. I would assume the HD's have gotten a little better. With all that said in a price range of $2000 I think there are better options. The Ziess V6, or the higher end Swarovski's or the Leica ER5 are all very good glass. I do not like the turrets on the Swarovski's but the glass is awesome.

My 30-06 has never liked anything but 165s. Sub 1/4 moa with 165s and + 1 moa with 180s.

Yes the 6.5s are ballistically superior, but they are not going to make up for a lack of shooting ability. I run a 270 WSM pushing a 130 gr swift @ 3475 fps. My brother is shooting a 6.5-300 weatherby. I will out shoot him at any distance, any day of the week. If your willing to spend the extra time and money to form the brass to shoot enough to get good with your set up then the 6.5 WSM or the SAUM have some advantage over the 270 WSM. But if you would be likely to shoot the 270 WSM alot more because you can grab everything off the shelf load up and go shooting, it's a better choice for you. The real difference is pretty small and 99 out of 100 shooters will never need the extra little bit the 6.5s offer. If you want to shoot stuff at 1600 yds you need the 6.5s. I've never shot game other than predators beyond 700 yds, but if a coues buck were to ever piss me off bad enough to want to take a 1200 yd shot I would bet he would not live to hear the crack from my 270 WSM. With all the bs aside if I we're going to build a hot short action 6.5 the Sherman short looks pretty interesting with it looking like there may be quality brass available for it shortly.

I've had a few customs but my best 3 shot group @ 100 yds was from a old Savage 340 B in 222 rem with a tasco 6-24x50 shooting factory Hornady varmint ammo with a moly 50 gr v-max. Had a total of $200 into the whole set up.

Twisted for the 55 gr berger would be sweet!

Under armour base layers from 2.5 to 4.0 a t shirt Carhartt pants and a Carhartt heavy sweatshirt. It's worked for Nov and Dec hunts in AZ and for many 12 and 14 hr shifts in North Dakota at -35.

Could have been the ammo and could have been how the ammo was taken care of. Only time I've seen primers back out of a case was due to under pressure. For example if you were to load a 22-250 at min book load then fire it in a 22-250 AI you could likely see the primer back out of the case. From the issues They had with the misfires and primers backing out I would guess the cartridges might have gotten wet.

Cal ranch has been my spot for actions to build off of. Think I payed $350 for the last 700 LA.

I've done the same just with a drill press and sand paper.

I've watched far more bad shots inside 100 yds than beyond 100 yds. The people that don't take the time to practice suck at any range.

Going to a prarie dog town without a 1000 rounds and at least 3 backup rifles is just pour planning!

Not really muffs but the Ghost stryke plugs look like they would be good. Probably really easy to lose.

The vx-3i 4.5-14 will be plenty to shoot well beyond 350 yds. I've used the same scope out to 800 yds.

It's a good scope for $500 and the very minimum I would put on a rifle I intended to do any kind of hunting with. Anything less will let you down eventually.

Killed my first Elk when I was 12 at 25 yds and my first deer when I was 15 at 20 ft. Until I was 28 my longest shot was 60 yds. I can say for certain that any shot I take between 600 and 1000 yds now days is way more responsible than some of the shots I took at under 50 yds while I was learning to hunt.

About 2 oz of heavy shot sprayed from a 3 1/2 in 12 ga. Watch the you tube video of the guy that got mauled a year or two ago in the same area of Montana. If your going to rely on bear spray cover yourself in steak seasoning.

Sounds like normal cheapo Depot service to me!

Justify didn't race as a two year old he's the only undefeated triple crown horse that didn't race as a two year old.

The work truck I have now is a 5.7 hemi. Biggest POS I've ever driven! It's mostly between 9 and 12 mpg and can't get out of it's own way. Every 6.4 I've driven has gotten far better mileage and had far better power. I really like my 6.7 Cummins but I wouldn't consider keeping one past 100000 miles. Out of over a dozen 3500 diesels, all Duramax and Cummins I haven't seen one between 100000 and 150000 miles that was cheaper to maintain than replace. Could buy two new diesels for the money we've spent on Duramax injectors.

Load a ladder test start low and work up .5 gr per round. Personally I would start lower than 68 gr. I know it should be safe but I've seen several rifles show extreme pressure well below max book load, one Browning x- bolt popping primers at min load.

Go rent a Hilti TE-70 roto hammer and a 2" bit.