10Turkeys

ShootersWorld. Pretty close to 8 hours. YouTube videos will show you how to break down a Glock, but they don't go into the how's and why's of how they work. IE I've never seen a YouTube video point out that there is a nipple in the slide that the firing pin safety spring goes into, also I've watched a YouTube video on lubricating a Glock. The guy doing the video said to put a drop of oil down the hole across from the firing pin safety by the barrel. That is a weep hole ment to blow any foreign material away from the firing pin assembly, need to keep that oil free.

I took a Glock Armour course last Oct. The instructor stated that a Glock will work when you want it to, and when they don't, it's usually due to an aftermarket part. I found that true with an Apex trigger that I had in one for a very short time. It double tapped. I took it off, sent it back for a refund and put the factory trigger back in it. Might not be the smoothest or the lightest pull, but it goes bang when I want it to. For my EDC that's what I want.

Bump

Glock 23 Gen 5 .40 S&W minor wear, approx 400-450 rounds fired. Comes with original box, 3 mags, 20 rounds of Speer Gold Dot 180gr defensive ammo, Trijicon night sites. 500.00 located in Chandler.

PM sent.

Between the powders listed in the book and online IMR-8208 XBR is the fastest and RL-17 is the slowest. IMR-7828 is quite a bit slower than the RL-17, might not be able to put enough IMR-7828 in the case to get any velocity out of it. Also that old XLC bullet didn't have any grooves in it like the newer bullets. TSX/TTSX had to be a longer bullet to get the grooves it compared to the XLC bullet. That might be why they are driven better with a quicker burning power. I don't know, but I'm sure Barnes will know when you call them.

I can't answer that question. I haven't played around that much with Barnes bullets. From what they state their bullets do like to be loaded off the lands, and that's what I found out with my .270. I would pick one of the powders seat some bullets to their specs and see what happens.

As far as I know their number 4 is still the latest manual that they have, and there is no data for IMR-7828 in it either.

TTT

Don't know about bulk or online, but right now Sportsman's Warehouse has Federal 9mm 115gr for 14.99 for a box of 50. That is about the lowest that I've seen in a store.

New price 500.00 minus the Vedder holster.

Saturday Bump

TTT

Friday Bump

My bud and I got a tag in either 36 AorB early hunt with 3 points. Put in for basically the same hunt last year and didn't get drawn with 2 points.

The original app fee was 58.00 each. G&F pulled a 13.00 fee upfront. Leaving 45.00 due if drawn. 45.00x3=135.00.

Just got hit for 90.00. My bud and I are going hunting!

Anyone have a spare cardboard gun box, preferably rifle or shotgun size in the east valley? I'll trade 100 Federal 210M primers for same. Thanks!

Got one. Thanks Vowell!

I'm in Chandler. Just so I can fit an air rifle that I sold into it.

IMR-4064 is old school .308. TAC is supposed to be pretty good in a .308, but I've never tried it. I have used a lot of WW-748, which is very accurate, but temp sensitive. IMR or H 4895 will also work. Never used N-150, but I have used N-135, which worked ok.

My Dad has my Grandfather's dogtag from the same era as yours. I think then they were worn on their boot rather around the neck.

Those Vietnam era dog tags are different from the ones I was issued. These have the Name, serial number. The letters RA means Regular Army then the number Mr. Jarvis was issued. It was SSN after about 1967. The T58 was the year he got his Tetanus shot 1958. That info wasn't on ours. Blood type, that was on ours and then religious preference. That notch on the left side was to place in your teeth with a closed mouth if you were killed in action, which wasn't on my era dog tags. Late 70's and 80's.

Great job, Edge!

Stay on the sidelines, you know your comfort zone!