ctracingraptor

New to reloading, and my cousin and I are testing some loads and shooting from a .308 out of a 20" barrel DPMS AR-10. It's sub moa with premium ammo. I'm having a little pattern spread issues with reloads, and was curious if someone had a place to start from or a preferred powder or a solid setup. My pattern is consistently around 3-4 inches. I've been slowing working the charges up and the FPS spread is pretty consistent. Any issues with BLC-2 or spherical powder that I am missing, or should I try something else. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Currenty Setup 168grain SMK (very little or no crimp) 308 Nosler brass(factory trimmed) BLC-2 43grain Sellior & Bellot primers COAL--2.800"

Is there any way to eliminate the "freebore" ??? Is there no way to tack up all the slack or gap ? Would switching to a match grade barrel help at all? Thanks against

Update. I purchase the Hornady OAL Gauge, also with the bullet comparator set. I installed the bullet comparator with the correct die, zero my dial indicator as instructed. I ran this procedure several time to get a average of my CBTO. Now either my math is off or something is wrong, I need someone to double check this for me please. Measure OAL with the gauge and checked it using the comparator measuring on the ogive. My Numbers 2.366" 2.367" 2.368" 2.368" Average is 2.367 I used the bullet comparator and measured a factory bullet on the ogive(which I know will change because its a different bullet) but I ended up with 2.218" Even if I back the bullet 0.040" off the lands, I am still coming up with a bullet that is very very long, Oh and it wont fix in the magazine anymore. Backing off 0.040 I ended up with COAL of 2.891. Why is this bullet so much longer than the book telling me 2.810 is max? What do I do about it no longer fitting in the magazine? My numbers are telling me I have roughly 0.150" jump on factory ammo? Oh and I'm also running into the same issues with my AR15, Its obvious somewhere I have missed something, just not sure what? thank you in advance

ok guys thanks for the help, im going to purchase a seating depth gauge and start over.

wayno, are you sure the cci primers (cci34) are magnum primers? I'm not seeing that they are magnum, says military. Also I was thinking of switching to the Federal 210M primers, they have good reviews, does anyone have input on the 210M primers? Apparently I've missed something, I didn't know I needed a special tool to measure seating depth, does anyone have a recommendation on which one I should purchase? Thanks again.

If it's relatively new ford, you can easily order a new cover from the dealership. Guaranteed to match and fit and finish perfectly. Pm me for info.

I bought all of mine local, ive had no problems with issues. Can also make custom order to size. I really love my 30" plate, and it really sucks draggin it around the desert ha ha. Pm me for more info

the link is not working....

I might know someone that would be interested. Let me get ahold of him

I'm kinda in the same situation, I use 168gr, and sometimes 150gr from my 7mm. I was drawn for coues as well, i normally only hunted them with my 270. Since I've switched exclusively to my 7mm, I worried about the 168gr being too much? Not sure if I should just stay put or come down to a 150, maybe 140?? What do you think?

Ive had a similair problem with my tahoe, like others have said. Check the flame, pull the front cover off and look. Also check the vent stack to the roof, i had a pack rat make a nest in mine, and it was causing the issues.

If you want a set, you might as well go big or go home, and not hold onto your wallet! Ouch! http://outdoorsmans.com/product/kowa-highlander-32x82/

I have a montefeltro and its a sweet shotgun, your not going to find them for cheaper. bump for a superb shotgun.

I think i had my garage door installed for like $500-$600 out the door on a normal two car door if that helps,

Im a ford tech at a local valley dealership, pm me if you want to talk.

I has this hunt last year, and it was very very tuff. Pm me is you need more specific help.

I feel as if this has been a long time coming, and i felt it was going to happen sooner than later. Especially since they are already trying out in unit 9. Im a rifle hunter and a muzzleloader hunter, and i dont know how i feel about the subject of switching the dates. There is no way they will let 600 rifle hunters go before archery, it would ruin everything. Maybe they want to incorporate a low draw, high success rifle tag before archery, say maybe 10 premium tags. But i would like more info on what they are trying to acheive.

Ok , i used my KG12, which cleans copper and it cleared it right up. Thank you so much! I don't understand how cleaning my bore is affecting my bolt? My bolt is removed during cleaning, and i use a bore guide to keep junk out of my mag box. I normally just clean my bold with rem oil and brake cleaner. Then finish with a light coat of rem oil, and a dab of gun grease. I guess ive just been using rem oil so long, is there something better out there?

im pretty good about cleaning my guns, and i have several other satin (low gloss) stainless barrels and parts. But I was cleanings my sendero and noticed this greenish sticky funk on my bolt and in the corners of my mag box. Does anyone have any idea how to get rid of it, and what product that im using is possibly causing this? I checked all my other rifles and none of have this, only on my sendero? Thanks in advance

I use KG products exclusively, then wipe everything down with a very light coat of rem oil. Occasionally i use wipeout and let it sit overnight, when i just can't get to it until the next day.

The shield is a very nice carry, but so is the glock 43. Try them both out, I personally am going to get the 43, and put my 23 back in the safe.

if you subscribe to the stealthcam email, they will send you links for deals on their old cams. I've seen some excellent deals, cams as lows as $20. I would rather buy a refurbished stealthcam or older model, than buy a odd ball name. Just my opinion though....

I agree what's the height measurement from the floor to the bottom of the bed...

I've decided i want to start reloading, mainly for some handgun ammo, my 7mm for more accuracy and 5.56mm and .308 to save some cash. i don't even know where to start. I've read reviews saying that you don't want a progressive stage if you are more interested in accuracy. So I guess i'm asking what are the pros and cons of the single stage vs the progressive. Now me personally am the kinda of person that only likes to buy something once, and not so much of the "this one is good enough for now" theory. I really don't like buying things twice. I'm not looking for the most expensive set-up in the world, but if the most expensive set-up happens to be the best in the market, then i will give a strong look. I've read a lot of good reviews about the RCBS Rock Chucker, but i don't personally know anyone that reloads so i'm asking for you help and opinions. So i who make the best product on the market and who makes the best product for money? thanks in advance.

Ok now im lost, So it sounds like i need to buy both a single stage and progressive? I understand the concept of buying a single stage then added a progressive later down the road....but it sounds like a single stage wont do hangun ammo, and it will take forever to do 1000 rounds of 223 or 308? Sounds like a progressive can be used like a single and can be made as accurate as a single stage, but has the option to be quicker. Did I mention I know very very little about reloading.....