forepaw

Yeah. Too light for me. I set mine at 1.25# and it seems pretty good. forepaw

Another nice thing about Tikka's is you can order a YoDave trigger spring ($18 w/ shipping) and drop the weight as low as 12 oz. I don't think you can go below about 2.25 - 2.5 lbs. with the factory trigger spring. forepaw

You might watch the gunwerks youtube video. www.gunwerks.com or maybe it is www.G7.com, anyway it is a good instructional video. I believe they use Talley lightweight rings on their custom rifles, and they do lap them. I would also see what the mfg. recommends. I am not a user of Talley's so no personal experience that I could offer, I know they are excellent rings and widely used. Lapping is a simple process. You can cobble together some items from the hardware store, or order the Wheeler Engineering kit (or other kit) from Midway. forepaw

380 yds. - with a Remington 760 (Woodsmaster?) - it got 'er done! That was not just good shooting it was great shooting! Enjoy your lifetime buck! forepaw

My guess is bedding. It looks to me like your action is moving around. Torquing the action screws to spec. won't help if that is what's going on. You also could have a bad barrel. They are not real common, but do turn up occasionally. Before I did anything, I would clean, check all screws, and have someone who is a good shot shoot it and note the difference, if any. forepaw

Ok thanks for info. Is the Hybrid the same as the hunting bullet? I know they also make a target bullet, not sure if that is the HVLD. forepaw

As I understand Berger performance, part of the reason they are so lethal is they fragment after a few inches of penetration. In this case, it sounds like the bullet held together. Does that seem right? Sounds like no bone was hit, which means she made a great shot! forepaw

Good choice. I like Burris scopes. With that reticle, if you zero at 200 yds. the post will get you to 600. If you combine with a good rangefinder, you can get an idea of how much to hold off for wind. forepaw

The Strelok apps. will do it. The free download is pretty good. The Plus and the Pro versions have a lot more features. forepaw

Most of the major companies have BDC type reticles that will give a pretty close match with your ammo and point of impact to that distance. Some like Nikon and Burris, have free software to help calibrate your zero. Leupold makes a CDS scope which is slightly out of your price range for a new one, but you could no doubt find a used one in good shape. The basic things for your rifle would be glass bed, free float, re-crown the muzzle, adjust trigger, clean the bore with JB Bore Paste, and practice from field positions. Especially in the wind. A 10 mph crosswind at 400 yds. will probably move your bullet 18". If you put up some paper targets, they will really tell the tale! forepaw

You want to get to 500 or 600 yds. Ok. Does that mean banging gongs and boulders off the hood of your pickup, or capability of putting the first shot in a vital area on game? If the first, about any 3-9x40 scope with duplex crosshair will do. If the second, then you have more issues than just scope selection. forepaw

You probably have some slop in your press linkage. That wobble can lead to slight variance in bullet seating. Also, are you using a reliable comparator tool that measures the bullet at the same place just below the tip? If you are measuring COAL from base of the case to the tip of the seated bullet you will easily have variation of the amount you mention. Or more. It is not a big deal in a hunting rifle. If you have a target rifle with match chamber, then you would need to be a little fussier. forepaw

www.24hourcampfire.com has a Savage Collectors forum. Lots of knowledge and helpful folks there. forepaw

www.midwayusa.com has VX-6 scopes discounted 38%. Don't know how long that sale will be going, but you won't find a new VX-6 cheaper than that. forepaw

The Maricopa Co. (assume you are Maricopa and not Yavapai) Health Dept. has folks who can explain the details, as does ADEQ. If you want to delve a little more, contact the U of A. The Dept. of Soils, Water and Environmental Science has folks who are Ph.D. level and can tell you more than you probably want to know, though it doesn't take that level of training to walk you through it. If you still aren't satisfied with info you are getting, send me a pm and we can visit over the phone. I am familiar with the issues you are describing. forepaw

Shot cartridges for a Glock - 9mm? .40?. I need to get some of those. Do they feed ok? forepaw

Actually the Swede is 120 years old. I don't think they realized at the time what an ideal combination of inherent accuracy, light recoil, low muzzle blast, and bullet weight and shape they had. They were some pretty smart hombres, so maybe they did - they got rate of twist right. A lot of modern calibers shoot heavier bullets, faster, and hit with more energy at long range. But as you get older, and get tired of lugging all that stuff around on long walks, then a lightweight, accurate, flat-shooting rifle like the Swede begins to have some appeal. You can use 100 or 120 gr. bullets for varmints, or 160 gr. for big stuff. Competition-quality match bullets are everywhere. That is the biggest drawback to the .25-06 in my opinion, but then it is more of a hunting caliber. The choices of factory ammo for the Swede tend to be a little thin, but most hunters, and virtually all target shooters, will no doubt want to handload for it.. forepaw

Moqui Stage Station. forepaw

Using very similar criteria, I bought a Tikka T3 Hunter 6.5x55 SE. I was leaning toward more of a 1k target rifle, and considered the T3 Varmint, but it is only available in this country in .223 and .22-250. The Tikka CTR is known to be outstandingly accurate, but it is too bulky and heavy for a Coues or sheep rifle, though it could definitely handle the 600 yd. limit you imposed, and then some. You could re-barrel your .30-06 to the Swede. The bolt face on your Rem. 700 is 0.473" and the Swede is 0.480", so depending on the brass and the bolt face tolerance, you might need to have it opened slightly. No big deal. No other changes would be needed. The magazine will work as is. The Swede is about midway between the .257 Roberts and the .270. In other words, close to a .25-06, except you swap mv for better B.C. and choice of much heavier bullets if you ever want to shoot elk or moose. The max SAFE load (using H4350 and 140 match bullets) looks to be about 1.0 - 1.5 gr. less than the 6.5x284, but I will know more as I get some loads developed. If you want a really high-performing wildcat, go to a 6.5x55 AI. No experience with one, but from what I have read it offers a significant improvement over the standard Swede (which is a good round in the standard form). forepaw

PM sent. forepaw

So if the pilot goes out, do you turn off the gas to that appliance until you can re-light it, or do you just leave it. Do they generally have an auto shut-off that senses the flame is out? Thanks. forepaw

The Japanese Brownings are very good. I have a Miroku Win. 101 and it is a handsome, well made, well fitted gun. However, these don't command the prices of Belgian guns, or Pre-64 Winchesters (M 12 or 25 or 24). The very early Belgian A-5s in some cases did not have the shell cutoff, which is a useful feature. The Belgian 16 came as a standard field grade, and Sweet 16. They are easy to tell apart. The Sweet 16 is lighter, and generally will bring a higher price, but as far as shooting characteristics, I doubt if I could tell any difference. I have never seen a 16 ga. A-5 in anything other than field grade. If you can find any Belgian A-5 in good shape with a spare barrel and an original fitted hard case, you might want to really look at it. Matched sets are rare, but extra barrels are relatively easy to come by. forepaw

I believe the Bowtech binary cams are draw-length specific. However, I just ordered a set of modules for my 2007 Allegiance LH and Bowtech had them in stock. They might have cams too. It is worth checking, the Allegiance is a great bow. You won't be able to order directly, but any authorized dealer can get them for you. You can switch between the speed module and the smooth module to see which suits you best. There is supposed to be about 6 fps difference, but I only lost about 2 fps going from the speed module to the smooth. The draw cycle was much less aggressive. forepaw

Guys, I have been trying to get a sense for preferences in carbon arrows. I have been using Gold Tip XTs for years, and they seem good and not too expensive, but have also heard good things about Easton Axis arrows. They are not cheap, but apparently are very straight and very tough. Also, they are smaller diameter which aids penetration. Anyone have opinions one way or the other? Is there enough difference to make a major switch? Or would you likely only notice the difference if you were a world-class shooter (which I am not). Thanks all. forepaw

Guys, Midway has VX-6 Leupolds for very decent prices right now - not just good, but smoking. I saw a 3-18x44 with TMOA reticle for $1,039.99. They also have other options and other scopes. forepaw