forepaw

Not sure what precision rifle event you plan on shooting, but if you upgraded your optics, your setup could provide some fun shooting at the long range varmint silhouette and F-class matches at the Boulder Rifle and Pistol Club range. You probably wouldn't be seriously competitive at the Palma or 1000 practices, but might still turn in decent scores. Maybe better than decent, depending on wind. forepaw

You might be making it too complicated. Zero your rifle at 200 yds. Make sure you record good weather data - very important - and velocity - also important. Make sure you know your scope height above your bore centerline. Once you have that, you can make all kinds of changes in terms of weather, wind, distance etc., and it will calc. everything against your original zero. I have found Strelok pretty easy to use, and very accurate, most of the time very close if not dead nuts. forepaw

Anything in particular re: 5.7 hemi, or just the layout/design? I know some of the components are not the easiest to get to. Does overall performance and reliability compare with say, a 5.3 GM? Thanks. forepaw

It is pretty easy to tell for someone who knows how to read barrels, but the best bet is find someone with a borescope and see if they will take a peek inside that thing. Basically, look at the rifling just ahead of the chamber. It helps to take the action out of the stock so you can get your eye as close to the back of the action as possible. Try varying background and lighting. On a good barrel, the lands are sharp at the edges and flat on top. The grooves and lands are clear. On a barrel with some wear, say 1000 - 2000 rds. you can see the tops of the lands are getting a little indistinct at the corners. With high-velocity cartridges, at 2 - 3k rds. or so, you can see the lands are flattening out less distinct, and the edges may be slightly rounded. When you get past 4k, you may see just an outline of where the lands used to be for say, 1 1/2 or 2" in front of the throat. In some rifles, you can't see any lands at all in front of the throat - there is kind of a frosty or blurred outline, sometimes a sort of wavy remnant of where the lands used to be. Usually a rifle will lose accuracy well before it gets to this point. You can't tell much about the main part of the bore without a borescope, but you won't need one if the wear is this far advanced. I have only seen a couple of bores this bad. One was on a Sako .308 (a very nice rifle) at a pawn shop. When I pointed out the washed-out throat, the owner went a little nuts and told me I was full of bull, that anyone with a lick of sense knows these modern barrels are good for 100k rounds. I occasionally shoot with a guy who has a Rem. 40x in .308 that he swears has 40k rounds through the original barrel. It shoots ok, not great, but that must be some steel! Sometimes you can "chase" the worn rifling by seating your bullets out further and further. I am doing that on an old .270, and it still shoots pretty well, at least in terms of hunting accuracy. It probably has at least 2k rds. through it. I have a spare barrel ready to go, but just haven't seen the accuracy drop off enough to get it installed - but it is getting close. Eventually you either run out of neck to hold the base of the bullet securely, or else your OAL becomes too long to fit the magazine. It's actually time for a new barrel long before you have to worry about those conditions, however. Hope that helps. forepaw

I probably have more info than you want to hear about, but the condensed version is: For reduced/practice/kids load (very good BTW): 17/SR4759/140 Nosler Custom Competition, Lapua brass, WLR primer, jump 0.025". For a good med. range target load: 45/R19/140 Nos.CC, Lapua brass, WLR primer, jump 0.060". Vel. is 2600. This is an awesome 1000 yd. load. I am still working to find a hunting load I am satisfied with. Right now I am using 48/R19/127 LRX w/ Lapua brass, WLR primer, jump 0.092". Vel. is 2950 out of my 22" Tikka with the same 200 yd. zero as my target load, but I am just not liking the accuracy. It is ok (>2.5" at 200 yds.) but not great. My guess is that you cannot push the LRX fast enough from the Swede case unless you are using about an 8 twist 26" barrel. I suspect that bullet was designed for the 6.5x.284 and maybe even the 6.5x300 Wby. I know Lance T Kenyon uses it to good effect in one of his 6.5 wildcats, and maybe even the .260 Rem. but at higher velocity, as he uses long, heavy barrels. I have also used H4350 with the Nos. CC bullet. 44 gr. gives 2700 fps, with good accuracy. I haven't been using that load for two reasons: 1) Lapua brass does not seem to like Fed. 215M primers, and 2) H4350 can be a little scarce, and I prefer to keep what little I have for my .270. The Nosler 140 gr. CC is not the most advanced 6.5 target bullet, but for the price it is really good. I generally neck size, and body size about every 3rd firing. I anneal after the 5th firing. Right now I am on my 10th firing using new Lapua brass. It gets dirty, but does not seem to stretch in the T3 action. Hope that helps. forepaw

I saw a very nice Coues buck that had been spooked by some other javelina hunters in the low rolling hills north of the intersection of Barkerville Rd. and the road that forks to the NE from E. Freeman Rd (near the ranch, possibly the 96 Ranch), and west of the big north-south trending dry wash (it wasn't dry at the time!). By the time we got to Hayden everything was snow-covered and it was still coming down. Seems like this was in early February. Actually, closer to mid-Feb. as the receipt for my javey at Livingston's Lockers in Tempe is dated 2/24/69. Oh sorry, you wanted recent sightings, my bad! forepaw

Can't understand why there is not more support for the Barnes 127 LRX. You can start it faster from a relatively small case like the 6.5 CM or 6.5x55. I understand this gets into the no man's land between speed (and remaining energy) and B.C., but at long range, the question becomes not only ability to buck wind, but also stability in the trans sonic zone, where a little wobble starts while the bullet is still supersonic. I don't know how to predict where the advantage will be except to shoot both bullets in the wind at a reasonable range, say 500 yds. Get ready for an educational but humbling experience! I didn't agree with Van Zwoll's use of the 6.5 CM to shoot a bull at 600 yds. as I considered it a publicity stunt intended to sell rifles. But I understand that he is a highly experienced hunter and a cool shot. He was able to pull it off under perfect conditions (private, open land, no wind, no angle, calm animals). Not everyone will have those perfect conditions or could otherwise make the same shot under field conditions. If anything goes wrong - anything - will you be able to send in another EFFECTIVE follow up shot (or two, or three) before the animal gets away? forepaw

So the theory that the misfolded prions may be occurring spontaneously may mean it did not originate with Scrapie from domestic livestock - which also could mean it might not behave the same way as BSE in terms of transmission to humans? Lots of questions regarding origin (was it a chance gene?) and natural resistance of exposed animals that do not develop symptoms. I didn't see any mention that it has been around forever, like some animal illnesses (ebola), so what triggered it over the past few decades? And until the Norway outbreak, only in N. America? forepaw

I have hunted CO a few times, 7 or 8 different units, but am far from an expert. My archery deer tag this year is in GMU 61, and this will be my 3rd tag in that unit. I have never hunted, or even been in, the units you mention so can't help with anything specific. You might consider using the CPW website as they have some pretty good map tools, and also have a hunting helpdesk (hunt planner) where they can actually answer some pretty detailed questions. CO has always been a fun hunt and enjoyable trip. Just keep in mind that you will be in the Rocky Mtns. and the weather can change fast - especially be ready for rain and lightning. There are also some tips which will help with altitude, and you should take advantage of everything you can learn about that. These include limit alcohol, drink plenty of water, arrive a few days early to acclimate (especially if you're prone to getting headaches when trying to sleep at higher elevations) and take Tums to help neutralize lactic acid buildup once you start humping hills. Between Google Earth, CPW, other forums (www.bowsite.com is good) you should be able to get by with one scouting trip to recon. your area and find a camping spot. I am considering taking some judo points for blue grouse. Some years those suckers are plentiful, and it seems you could almost knock them out of the trees with sticks. Also, at least on the rifle hunts, you can shoot all the coyotes you want without any additional license, but once you have filled your tag, you must have a furbearer? or other license to shoot them. Not sure if this applies to archery or not. Good luck, hope you kill a couple of nice ones, and post pics. if you are inclined to do so. We will all learn something! forepaw

6.5x55 AI forepaw

There are four words to keep in mind when dealing with the National Park Service: you - can't - fix - stupid. forepaw

That would be Ten-X Campground. forepaw

Yeah, tell me about it. I let my left-hand Hoyt go for way less than it was worth. My Allegiance is staying with me however. Your price is fine, in fact low with the arrows and accessories. Someone will be getting a lifetime bow for 1/3 the cost of a new one. Bowtech still supports the Allegiance with parts and accessories. I changed from the speed modules to the smooth modules, and boy did it make the bow more shootable, and only lost about 6-7 fps. Someone will be very pleased to get your bow! forepaw

The Allegiance is a great bow - forgiving to shoot, blazing fast, light, durable, accurate, reasonably quiet. Not as many bells and whistles as current mfg. models, but still a classic. forepaw

This. "Anyway, I have used the compass enough to trust it, so I just kept going and found the vehicle". forepaw

You should always disinfect water from backcountry sources. Filtration is just the first step (though some units do add a low level of chemical disinfection using a silver iodide compound which eventually becomes depleted). It is easy to do and provides a significantly increased level of protection that will allow you to keep hunting effectively. Just carry either fresh, unscented household bleach (add 5 drops from an eyedropper per gallon, let sit for 1/2 hr. before drinking) or use Iodine tablets from REI or wherever you shop for outdoor gear. Same deal, 1/2 hr. contact time and be sure and rinse the threads and cap of your containers with the treated water. It is pretty hard to find a pristine water source these days. Polio, hepatitis, multiple types of enterovirus, and others, are still with us. forepaw

Man you are LUCKY! I have dumped dozens and dozens of rounds, never a problem. Somehow, the compound had to be crimped hard between the cup and anvil. I would notify the primer mfg. of that event. Send lot #, date of purchase, etc. forepaw

Well you have a nice shooter and a true piece of history. It is a pre-war, not quite original, but still might fetch a premium $ from the right person, as those years basically produced hand polished and hand fitted moving parts. If anyone doesn't believe it, just have a careful gunsmith take one apart, and then try to put it back together!. That old gun has many years of carrying and shooting left. Also, I believe some of the M 12s in 16 ga. were a smaller frame size than the 12 ga. guns which makes them much handier for long walks on the desert for quail, or jumping ducks off stock tanks. It is fascinating to read about Depression-era Winchesters, if you can find any books on that topic. Some of the Sr. citizens at gunshows can be good sources of info as well. If you can find a copy, I highly recommend "The Shotgun Book" by Jack O'Connor. It is some of the best writing ever done on sporting shotguns. Good luck. forepaw

I am a fan of M 12s, especially 16 ga. Picked up a 95%+ (like new) condition w/ plain barrel, 28" mod., average wood, last year, paid $650. Think I paid about $100 too much, at least in terms of local prices, but checked Blue Book value, and it was exactly $650. If you have or can borrow a current Blue Book of Gun Values, that would be the most authoritative and probably cheapest way to appraise value. forepaw

You may want to consider new bows that are discontinued or last year's models. Have you considered Athens Archery? They are a small company in the Midwest and make extremely nice bows. They may have some leftover limbs and risers they can put together for you at a pretty good price. Bowtech might be the same. The quietest bow I have every heard was a Bowtech Prodigy. Don't know anything about how they shoot, but they are quiet. forepaw

The other part of the story is the M 70 Featherweight in .243 was a neat little rifle, compact, smooth, lightweight. The Rem. M 722 was a good rifle, nothing wrong with it at all, but the 26" barrel and plain-looking stock made it a little bulky and awkward. It was not quite as sharp looking and handy as the M70. And as you mention, the M 70 was made up with a 10 twist, which shot about everything well, and the 6mm used a 12 or 14 twist, and could not stabilize heavier bullets. Folks wanted to use their rifle for varmints in the off season, but also be able to shoot accurately with heavy bullets for deer. Same problem occurred with vintage Savage 99s in .250 - 3000. The new ones are barreled with a 10 twist, and are good with a number of bullet weights. The older rifles are twisted 1:14, and shoot 87 gr. bullets well, but throw heavy, long bullets all over the place. I have had 100 gr. bullets keyhold at 25 yds. Still, the 87 gr.is pretty decent for most shooting with that round, and exceeds the 3000 fps spec. that was originally intended by Savage. forepaw

First Choice Archery Auction on e-bay is good. I also have a friend (long time AT user) who buys and sells a lot of bows, and has done so for a long time. What are you looking for? forepaw

I have a VX-6 w/ turrets, but not sure if it is the former, or the new/improved. I don't consider them horrible, but maybe I am missing something? forepaw

Howdy bigsky2, You have a great tag, so don't let your opportunity go to waste! You are somewhat incorrect re: state trust lands. You need a "permit" to access and recreate on state lands, but a valid AZ hunting license fulfills this requirement. Re: designated campsites, I don't believe this applies to state lands, though it might in some cases. As far as USFS lands, there are travel restrictions and they are pretty onerous, at least they were when I camped on the Coconino in 2014. You will need to get a travel map from the forest service in Williams (Kaibab NF) to make sure you know the boundaries for dispersed camping and what the road rules are. The tickets are $$. As far as campgrounds, I don't know of any except near towns - Seligman, Williams, etc. Kaibab Lake has one, that is a USFS operated, but it is on the extreme E. edge of your unit. The Big Boquillas Ranch may be your best bet, but you will need to do some e-scouting to come up to speed on that. There are a lot of posts on this forum which will be helpful, and also a lot of current knowledge which will be most helpful. You may want to start with a Flatline map as well as USFS and BLM surface maps. That will get you oriented in a general sense. If anything I have written is incorrect, it is unintentional and if other posters will set me straight, we will both appreciate it. forepaw

Which Tikka? Must be a CTR w/ the 20" bbl.? .260 or 6.5 CM? forepaw