Scooter

He said the new factory brass didn't split- just the reloads. I do agree to some extent with the people who blame it on headspace because most times case-head separations happen because of headspace issues... As I look at the split case, I can see the sizing marks pretty clearly and there's a significant section towards the case head/rim that looks untouched by the sizing die. That tells me this case has been loaded several times. If that same sizing die was used for his friend's reloads too- that could be the culprit. Maybe check the scale too- could be out of tolerance by a grain or two. You just don't see very many headspace issues with single shot break action rifles- especially from T/C... but can't rule it out completely!

I have chronic overpacking syndrome... Essentials in my lumbar/day pack are: 2 20oz water bottles, map, full box of ammo, no less than 3 knives capable of field dressing, 2 radios, GPS, AA batteries, AAA batteries, 5 ziplock gallon bags, small camo tarp, signal mirror, whistle, compass, blaze orange vest and cap, firestarter, knife sharpener, space blanket, facepaint, pair of extra gloves, scent-away small spray bottle, 4 carabiners and 100ft 550 cord, 2 Gerber multi-tools, headlamp, flashlight, 4 game bags, and some up-to-the-elbow yellow rubber gloves.

Those cases were more than likely weakened by sizing dies... You might want to double check the alignment of the ram and die to be sure equal pressure is being applied 360 degrees around the case when you run it into the sizing die. If there is even a slight alignment issue it can cause uneven case wall thickness or shape. Do you anneal your brass? If your loads were all splitting like that I would have to say with 95% certainty that your full-length sizing die or a misaligned shell holder/ram is the culprit. You shoot an Encore... Why not use just a neck sizer? You'll get more loads per case!

Yeah, this is what I was talking about in my post... you're willing to sacrifice some awesome and irreplaceable Father/Son ONLY time, for a measly >70% grade in High School Biology. You just don't get those times back. Hunting, in my opinion, shouldn't be held as a "reward" or ransom for anything in the first place. Isn't there other stuff to play the game with??? Allowance, xbox or whatever game console, a door for their bedroom, internet use, cell phone, household chores, new clothes/shoes, reductions in social life, rides to the mall, borrowing the car? I don't have a teenaged child, but it seems like there are other options than burning a tag and skipping out on quality time spent outdoors.

I'm sure when I see a wolf it is at that very moment in the process of depredating livestock and/or taking a human life- it's crazy... It would be wrong of me to look the other way, wouldn't it???

I don't see how they need to close National Parks... They're parks- they don't need to get paid. Just put up a "Pack it in, Pack it out" sign and keep the gates open.

Nice!!! Cool to see a .44 mag bull.

If I had the $$$ for one... It'd be a 7mm Rem Mag.

For me, it depends. I remember how I was at his age and school wasn't a big priority in my life. I was far from failing- but not doing as well as my parent's expected. When it came to Hunting and Fishing, THAT is where I wanted to be. I never had any disciplinary problems and I was always really respectful to my elders and authority figures. My mind just wasn't wired for book-learning. If my Dad or Mom would have taken Hunting and Fishing away from me- I sincerely doubt my grades would have improved, and it probably would have gotten worse. I guess what I'm saying is that the outdoors is a lifestyle- something that goes beyond a mere "reward for good grades". Hunting is something he'll do for the rest of his life. He's 15, a sophomore in High School- be glad he's wanting to go spend time with you outside chasing elk rather than playing video games and God knows whatever else these days. I say, as long as poor grades are the only issue- go elk hunting. My opinion is that if he's a good kid behavior-wise but just doesn't perform well in school, I don't think taking away an elk hunt is the best idea. Ultimately, you're the parent and you will do what you think is right... and I'm sure everyone will support you in your decision. We don't live your life everyday so your judgment call is yours alone to make based on the evidence.

Looking in the Sierra Vista/Tucson area for a taxidermist to do a full body bobcat mount- possibly a "catching a quail" type thing... Anybody?

I have one, so it would come at zero cost. I want to know from the panel of experts here whether or not I should take off the NAP 360 and put The Whisker Biscuit QS on the bow. I mainly spot and stalk, but I also shoot a lot during the week. Should I?

Then don't leave it... use the fur.

your location says SV and you don't know where the deer are??? Gotta get out there sometime soon and drive/walk around- they're everywhere... You'll see them, just put in the time to find them.

If you can register and post a rant on this forum about AZGFD online licenses/draw... you can probably figure out how to log on and get your AZGFD stuff just as easily.

Skin it out and make a pair of sneaky quiet stalk slippers (moccasins)... Or a fur liner for a traditional back quiver... there's lots of cool stuff you can try with coyote pelts.

Beautiful muley! Congrats

One antlered deer per calendar year (January 1st through December 31st). Species is dependent on what tag you have drawn, or with non-permit tags used during archery-only seasons you are allowed any legal antlered deer. There is no doe harvest in Arizona. They are illegal to shoot.

Yeah, in 34B I've literally seen whitetail all over the place as far as terrain and elevation go... and Big GameHunter, if you saw prarie dogs I have a good idea where you were and that's not where you wanna hunt, as there will be eleventy billion dudes hunting that area and no bucks when your season arrives.

He's up there somewhere... keep the faith!

I would recommend against DIY initial set up and tuning... I'm not trying to insult your intelligence or mechanical aptitude. I just feel like a person specifically trained to set up and tune a particular brand of bow would be the best and safest bet and will save some headaches for you. I do execute fine adjustments myself- but if I feel like my bow is the slightest bit out of tune or needs work that requires a bow press, I take it to the pros. Good luck with whatever you decide!!!

Just enough to keep some on the ground for late archery.

Thanks! Looks like it did the job quite well!

Archery Nonpermit tags are only used for Archery-Only Non-permit tag seasons listed in the regs...

Buy the bow that fits and shoots in YOUR hands the best. That implies that you are going to have to travel around a little and shoot lots of new bows. It's hard work, but it's a lot of fun and you would be amazed at the different flavors out there. Don't worry about what brand, poundage, speed, looks, price or anything! I recommend going with a quiver, 4 pin sight, and a Whisker Biscuit rest to start with. Most bow packages can come ready to tune (no bow is "ready to shoot" out of the box) with these items. Arrows? Just make sure they are the right spine, and that they're cut and glued well. After you shoot and talk to other archers- you'll upgrade, and upgrade, and upgrade, then go back to what you started with, and upgrade, in a never ending cycle. Take a few lessons as well. You should find a good shooter and have them watch you as you start off so that you don't get into the real bad habits and "practice them" into muscle memory. Welcome to the madness. Once you sink an arrow into an animal the bug never goes away or gets overshadowed!

Save some for November!!!