azsugarbear

It's a long shot, but thought I would try here as well as posting it on gunbroker.com. Fisher Enterprises is a Mesa, AZ company that builds suppressors and some HK MP5/SP89 clones for competition and recreational shooting. This set-up runs $4,000 new from FE. I want to sell this pkg. which includes the SBR in 9mm, the integral suppressor and two after-market, 30 round magazines. If you are trying to get one into your trust before the trust laws change, I would be happy to pull the SBR from the auction - provided no bid has yet been entered. Runs like a champ. On a Form 3 with my dealer and ready to go. You can learn more by going here: http://www.gunbroker.com/item/568795255 Or give me a text or cal for more info. 602-361-7191. Remember: this is a two tax stamp item. One for the SBR, the other is for the suppressor. All NFA laws govern this sale. Not looking for trades at this time.

Trial rider is GTG. Great guy to deal with.

Sold and gone. Thanks trials rider.

Sold my 22 Mag rifle. Found three boxes of ammo stashed in a drawer. 1 box (50 count) of CCI Total Metal Jacket 40 gr. at 1875 fps 2 boxes (100 count) of Winchester Jacketed Hollow Point 40 gr, 1910 fps Checked on line for pricing (ammoseek, slickgun, etc). When you can find it, the cheapest I saw was $14/box plus shipping. I will sell all three boxes for $40, which is $13.33/box. If interested, give me a call: 602-361-7191 and ask for Karl

Another part of the future equation with the sheep draw that has yet to come into play is the die-off of older hunters. We all want to live to be 80+, but the fact is that about 10% of all males will pass away by age 50. By age 60, it's about 17%. By age 73 - about 35%. By age 80 - half of us males will have moved on (to better hunting grounds?). I am sitting on 24 points and I turned 60 in February. By my calculations, I will begin to have a mathematical chance at some of the less desirable units in another 10 years. By then I will be 70. Not sure what shape I will be in, but I have already begun to cross out the physically more demanding hunts. The really sad part is: even if someone starts very young, the chance of completing the Arizona Big Ten challenge may have become a near-impossible fete. I think it would be interesting to see the ages of the higher bonus point holders. I suspect a lot of us will drop out of the race simply due to our own mortality finally catching up with us.

Model & series number would be helpful to buyers. Usually on a sticker on the inside of the door jamb.

SPF

I'm kind of a "do-it-yourself" guy. I love to try my hand at new things and the cost of the tuition has almost always been worth it. In researching gun coatings, I found that Cerakote was one of the best, if not "The" best coating in the gun industry. However, the cost of getting a basic cerakote job on a rifle was pretty steep. After more research and learning, I decided I could do it myself. What I found, was that the process was not at all complicated - just detail oriented. There is some labor involved, but the time spent was well worth the effort. I saved a lot of money and learned a ton. I also came away with some pretty good looking rifles (at least to me). I have Cerakoted just about everything I wanted to at this point, so it is time to make this stuff available to someone else who may have some serious thoughts about Cerakoting their rigs. Here's what I have up for sale: 1) DeVilbiss Charge Air Pro 20 gal. 5hp compressor w/50' hose (my guess) and blasting gun 2) Blast cabinet and base with correct 120 gr. alum oxide blasting media inside (Harbor Freight) 3) Oiless airbrush compressor 1/5 hp and 58 psi (Harbor Freight) 4) Misc. airbrushes, parts and mixing bottles (Harbor Freight) 5) Large home-made curing oven (will hold 300 degree temp all day long) The process is really straightforward, You need to be sure that the surface is evenly blasted and that it is absolutely clean. I found that airbrushes worked best for me when applying the cerakote. They are slower with the application, but gave me the control I wanted. The nozzles will eventually become clogged and need to be cleaned before using again. The curing oven is a huge metal electrical cabinet that I sealed up and then lined with insulation and taped. The heating element is a toaster element. The temperature is controlled by a proportional-integral-derivative controller (PID), which belongs to my son and is not included in the sale. They can be purchased for about $50. I put caster wheels on the oven so that it could be easily moved about (it is heavy). Below are some pics of the items, along with one showing some of my finished rifles. I've got over $750 invested in this equipment and I was able to paint five rifles, a couple of pistols and a few knives. Looking to get $500 firm for everything. Not looking to part out at this time. Not interested in any trades (need cash for the next great learning adventure). If you interested, send me a PM, or call/text to 602-361-7191.

weekend bump.

Take all of the 'best' units for Desert Sheep with one or two tags off the table (a few that spring to mind are units 22, 24B south & north, 31 & 32 Aravaipa, 37 Silverbells, etc.) as these go in the bonus round to max point holders. There may be a few others I am missing, but the point is: you have zero chance of getting drawn for these units unless you have max points. It's going to be another tough year for the sheep.

I have two unopened boxes of the 170 grain Berger Elite bullets in 277 caliber (100 count per box). Don't own a 270 any more, so these gotta go. I live up near Tatum & Bell. I work near Thomas & Central. I can try to meet up somewhere in between. I am willing to ship on your dime via USPS flat rate. Asking $80 (with just a little wiggle room). If interested, send me a PM or call me at 602-265-0707

Sold

Just posted about S4 in thread above. I tried several, but ended up keeping the S4. I find it gives good protection. Completely cover the eye cups and objective lenses. Holds it snug to my body when going under fences or low branches. And I don't have to unsnap any flaps. Just a small tug on one string (I made a tab for it so I can find it w/o looking down), and out they come.

The S4 bino harness is the one that I have gravitated towards

I know I am late to this party, but this thread seems a little like the "Taste Great"& "Less Filling" beer ads from a few years back. I could be wrong here, but the context of our arguments should not be which bullet has the most consistent expansion, but rather which bullet designed for long range shooting has the best terminal performance. I can list a lot of good, reliable bullets that mushroom consistently. Sadly, most of them have BC's that suck. Their margin for error is nearly double that of bullets that are designed to retain speed and deflect wind. When we shoot long distance (800-1200 yards), we often have to sacrifice one thing to get something else. We want a high BC bullet that will cut through the wind and maintain speed. We want it to be tough and give us deep penetration for that 200 yd shot, but then also be fragile enough to expand at 1,800 fps at 600 to 800 yds. down range. The search for the Holy Grail continues... That is the reason Nosler came out with their long range accubond. The regular AB's need at least 1,800 fps to expand, but the LRAB's were designed to expand as low as 1,400 to 1,600 fps. Same expansion, but at longer distances. Nosler markets the LRAB as giving hunters another 100 - 200 yds of down range performance due largely to retained velocity. In other words, doing something that Berger already does, When shooting long distance, you have to know what your bullet is capable of, as well as the required ballistics to get it there. Bergers need at least 1,800 fps to have any hope of expanding. If your speed down range is marginal, then hitting bone will help start them. But hitting bone with a Berger at high velocity (100-300 yds) will most likely result in the bullet exploding with minimal penetration. With my rigs, I am split right down the middle between Accubonds and Bergers. The AB's give me better expansion at all ranges, but my margin for error at distance increases because of their lower bc's. I have to be a little more careful with shot placement when using Bergers, but my confidence is higher with them in some of my rifles. I get small, accurate groups and better margin for error when doping the wind. As a general rule, I find my confidence is higher when taking the long distance shot due to the smaller wind deflection. Keep the Bergers above 2,000 fps at the target and you shouldn't have any problems.

From my years of research on safes, I have come to understand that most of the safes sold by retailers (store front shops) today are simply not that secure. They look great and seem to serve their purpose - until someone actually breaks into them. And that is a little too late to gain insight into the safe you thought was 'safe'. It isn't so much about prying the door (although that will work on the less expensive models), as it is about the steel on the sides of the safe. This is where most mfg's skimp to save on material costs. A fireman's ax can usually get through these thin side walls in a matter of minutes. That is why most safe mfg's don't publish the thickness of their steel walls. 10 gauge is considered by most good builders to be an absolute minimum thickness for side walls and backs. Retailers sell what the public wants - or is willing to spend. The really good safes have a limited audience - and as such, are not big sellers. If you have access to police and law enforcement lock-up areas, you won't see many of the common safe names. One that I kept seeing and hearing about were these: https://www.sturdysafe.com/ Take a look at their website and you will learn a lot about what makes a gun safe truly "safe". I'm sure there are many other such mfg's out there with similar product. I don't own one - yet. I do plan on upgrading in the near future. I currently have an older AMSEC that was made with the thicker walls and back. They discontinued the model because it simply did not sell as well as their other safes that had thinner walls, but prettier paint with fancy decals and an electric lock. Don't be fooled by weight alone. Lots of mfg's will add heavier materials to make a safe weigh more, but the weight is probably not steel and not placed in the right locations. Regardless of the safe you buy, you can double the effective deterrence it has by bolting it to the concrete floor with thick lag bolts and sleeves. You can make your safe fireproof by simply building a wall that wraps around your safe and then covering the wall with 3-4 layers of sheetrock.

They are the OTM variety. Looks like C Cordova will take care of you, but if it doesn't come together just send me a PM.

I pulled a couple the other day from some 300 RUM loads. Was going to use them as fouling shots, but they are yours if you want them. Unfortunately, you are down in QC and I live in N. Phoenix. If you get up this way, please let me know.

A suppressor can drastically reduce the firing signature (initial explosion of gun powder) of a cartridge. However, it cannot do anything to reduce the "supersonic" signature produced by the bullet traveling at 2-3 times the speed of sound through the atmosphere. You typically do not hear the supersonic "crack" (breaking the sound barrier) of the bullet because your ears are still ringing from the 'boom' of all that gun powder. So if stealth is your goal, you will be disappointed. However, if you want to hunt/shoot without ear plugs then suppressors are great. They also act as a very efficient muzzle brakes. They can be heavy - especially when hanging off the end of long barrels. Oh- they will also have an acute change on your point of impact, so leave it on your rifle. Any Class 3 dealer can walk you through the process. They typically charge you $50-$75 for the paperwork. You will also need to shell out $200 for the tax stamp that goes on the application. Finally, there is the cost of the suppressor itself. Approvals are currently taking 5-7 months when transferring to an individual or trust.

I have found the higher magnification of scopes to be of limited value - at least in AZ. The heat in AZ creates terrible mirage that makes targets appear to bend and wobble. When this happens accuracy goes out the window. The only way to combat mirage is to turn the power down. Except in the early morning hours, I seem to pick up mirage just about any time I go above 30 power.

The largest Coues I have taken (see pic at left) was at last light. The scope was a 56mm Nightforce and the shot was about 300 yds. Even then, I had trouble pulling him out of the brush because it was so dark. The task would have been impossible with the most expensive 40 mm scope available. Simply not enough light. I understand all the trade offs, but being able to hunt (see game) another 10-12 minutes later or earlier can make all the difference. These trophies get big by retiring well before sunrise and not leaving their beds until dark. For me, I want the most light I can gather. Now having said that, we need to recognize the difference in quality of glass and coatings for light transmission. I know some high end 40mm scopes that will provide more light than 50mm or 56mm scopes in the mid and low price range.

I have two rifles for coues whitetail. If I am humping the mountains, I go with my Rem model 7 in 243. It is light, fast and shoots tight groups with the 105 gr. Bergers. If it is day hunting, I go with my 65.506 AI. Both are plenty of gun for coues. To my mind, the rifle is not important - as long as it is accurate. Most all calibers can kill coues at distance. Focus on your optics - from scope to binos to spotter. You can't kill 'em if you can't see 'em.

Besides the deer, the only other company I have had way up in the mtns. is those guys with the heavy packs headed north. Always makes me nervous. I find that I am more concerned about my back trail than finding coues for the next couple of hours after stumbling across them.

Just bought a little savage rifle from Deserttrecker. Items were exactly as described. No BS or drama. Quick, clean transaction. Would not hesitate to buy from him again.

Just south of Deer Valley Airport. A couple of streets south of Deer Valley Rd & close to 1st Street.