azsugarbear

If this doesn't sell, then I will keep it and start the improvements.

These should go quick.

5guyshunting is a great, no-BS seller. A pleasure to deal with.

Just picked up a used Winchester 70 in above caliber. Bought it mostly for the action and bottom metal. I need to find out if this stock rifle is a shooter, or if it needs to be re-barreled. Not looking for the expensive stuff. Partial boxes (at least12 rounds leftover) are fine. PM me here at CWT or text/call at 602-361-7191.

Deal pending with 5guyshunting

Stored the box on top of the safe. The gunsmith did some extensive stoning of the parts (trigger, hammer, disconnect). May have done something to the trigger spring as well, You have to remember - this was back in 1989 when there were no (or very few) drop in triggers to be had. Nowadays, it is less expensive to buy a new drop in trigger than to pay a smith for several hours of work on the parts.

Sold

I have a Sightron SIII 5-25X that sits on top of my 6.5-06 AI. Glass is fantastic and clear and the turret dialing is repeatable. Prior to that, I had tried both Vortex and Leupold VX3. Nightforce is my go-to scope on my larger rigs, but they just seem to make the rifle too top heavy on a lighter sport rifle.

Weekend bump. Forgot to mention: the barrel is 20" and has a 1 in 7 twist that will handle the heaviest .224 bullets out there.

Weekend bump.

I bought this unit new about 2-3 years ago. It has been out in the field a few times, but looks fantastic. No scratches on the glass or body. Works and functions fine. The second generation distinguished itself from the original Gen one model with the ability to calculate and display in both yards and meters. More importantly, the Gen II model contains revised algorithms that helped to 'tighten up' the fire solutions calculated by the on-board computer. Asking price is $1,250. The only reason I am selling this unit is to fund the purchase of the new third generation G7 rangefinder. I'm curious to see what it has to offer. If interested, PM me here at CWT or call/text me at 602-361-7191. Listed locally only. I will be gone from 9/20-9/22, returning to the valley on Friday afternoon.

H1000. You cannot underestimate the value of having a temp stable powder for your ammo in AZ where temps can swing 40-50 degrees in a single day on an elk hunt.

Setting up a rifle for long range shooting can be a bit of a drawn out process. You need a load that is both consistent and accurate. Finding the most accurate ammo can take a few outings (more if you are handloading and tweaking your recipe). You will need a quality scope with repeatable results in terms of dialing up and then returning to your zero. If you don't have a higher end scope, then you are wasting both time and resources. You will need to mount that scope and then take it to the range and confirm the absence of cant by shooting at 100 yds with your zero and then dialing up 30 MOA and then shooting at the same 100 yd target to see if you tracked the plumb line you traced onto your target. Then dial back down again to see if you return to zero. Now you need to run your ballistics program to get a drop table. Then you head into the real world by actually shooting your load at 400 and 800 yds to see what your actual drops are (as opposed to those calculated in the ballistics table for you). You then go back into your ballistics program and change your speed and/or BC to get the program to reflect your actual results in the field. It's a lot of work and usually involves several trips to remote locations where you can shoot long range. In the end, what you will have is a rifle set up for long distance shots. At this point, the shooter becomes the weak link in the system. I would be glad to help out, but my time commitment is zero until much later this fall - probably too late for your hunt. I will be completing the set-up of rifle for a friend (started process last year) for his cow elk hunt in December. I am willing to help where I can, but my time for outings is extremely limited.

A couple years ago, this topic was discussed in a very long thread on www.longrangehuning.com. Lots of stories about Bergers penciling through. Some stories about Bergers blowing up on shoulders at close ranges under 200 yds. But many, many more stores about Bergers just doing their job. All bullets will have some fails. Berger took stories to heart and did an exhaustive test on their bullets trying to replicate the pass through results. Couln't duplicate the pencil through shot. In the end, they felt it may have been some clogged tips. They made changes to their production process and the tips seam much cleaner today than a few years back. In my opinion, no bullet performs 100% of the time. You just need to understand and compensate for any weaknesses of the bullet you are shooting. I mostly shoot the Bergers because of their accuracy and higher BC's. Having said that, my favorite overall bullet that get closest to the 'Holy Grail" of bullet performance are the bonded bullets like the Accubond and the Sirocco. I just wish they had better BC's and tighter groups in my rifles.

Why not just go with the 170 grain VLD bullet from Berger?

I have always used play-doh to fill gaps and holes in the action and car wax for a release agent. Never had any problems and it gives me a good, tight fit..

What are the outside dimension for this safe? Model number?

Please don't misunderstand where I am coming from. I do believe in both speed and penetration. The problem is finding the balance between the two. The performance of bow & arrow varies with each animal, location of hit, direction of travel, etc. Would I always like a complete pass through? You bet! Do I also want speed for flatter trajectory and less reaction time? Sure. I can easily get both by moving up to a crossbow. I could stay with stick and bow, but I can't pull 80 pounds and I don't have a 30" draw. So I am stuck with what I got: 70 pounds and a 28.5" draw - and trying to find the best balance between speed and weight. Like any other sport, I have seen trends come and go over the years. First the pendulum swings one way, then the other. For years, speed was king. Now heavy weight is king. It is simply my opinion that both matter and that you usually end up in a trade-off. The key, for me, is to find the right balance between the two. I tend to err on the side of speed just because my personal experience has led me there. If I had lost animals due to poor penetration, I would certainly err on the side of weight (momentum). We are the sum of our own experiences.

As archers, we all love the complete pass through shots. Certainly makes the animal easier to track. I think taco is on the right track in wanting to find a good balance between weight and speed. I look at the penetration of arrows kind of the same way I do bullets. Anything that exits the animal on the offside is just wasted energy. I guess the ideal set up would be just enough penetration to get the broadhead out the offside???

Just met up with AzDiamondHeat. As it turns out, my 100 grain G5 Montecs are counterfeits! Thanks to AzDiamondHeat for being so understanding. I paid for them through PayPal, so I may have a backup if the Seller does not step up. As it turns out, there are a couple of ways to spot them. First of all, the collars on the real Montec threads is clear, the counterfeit broadheads have a "cloudy" or translucent/opaque collar on the threads (see pic in first post). Secondly, the "100" stamped into an original Montec is smaller than the counterfeit. There are a couple of other giveaways - but you can simply go on line to learn more.

Proven performance. Nothing to go wrong or break with these broadheads. I bought more than I need, so I'm putting some up for sale. All broadheads are new in package and I have three packages for sale. Each package contains three razor-sharp broadheads. Price is $25 per package. I live near Bell & Tatum and work near Thomas & Central. For those in east valley, I can meet you half way at Bass Pro Shop. If interested, text or call 602-361-7191. Items listed on other forums as well.

My personal preference would be the "lighter arrow" - which is still plenty heavy for elk. Everyone has their own opinions based on their personal experiences. Two lessons have stuck with me over the years: 1) Faster arrows get their quicker. In the event an animal jumps the string, there is less chance of a non-vital hit with a faster arrow. 2) There isn't always time to range an animal in the field. Things can happen quickly and you have to judge the distance. Faster arrows have less drop in the 10 - 50 yard range, so there is more margin for error if your estimated distance was off. Lighter arrows seem to drop more at longer distances, but I usually find I have time to range in those instances. Lots of other arguments could be made for the heavier arrow, but the two examples above is where I have been schooled.

SPF to AzDiamondHeat

Any trades you are looking for?

My load is the Berger 230 gr. OTM over 94.0 grains of RL-33. Velocity is right at 3,000 fps out of a 28" barrel. Slight pressure signs on primers but not on case head. But the load is right near the top of the pressure curve. Got a sticky bolt and flatted primer at 95 grains.