STOMP442

Check your PM box I can help you out.

Action or donor rifle $300, Custom barrel, $265 - $350, Stock depending on what you want can be expensive but a nice Boyds laminate can be had for $100 Trigger if you get a model with an accutrigger can be as cheap as a $20 spring to bring the weight down as low as 10 oz or a rifle basix for $85 or SSS for $90. That brings the total to around $750 so there is still a little wiggle room for a fancier stock or higher cost barrel. The Savages will shoot right there with any custom Remington any day of the week. Just ask the Savage F class team. The savages are very easy to build on and they are just as true as any Remington because of their floating bolt head. Head over to savage shooters forum and poke around and look at their vendors for prices and after market options. I have built a number of Savage rifles for hunting and benchrest shooting and have never had one run over a grand.

Just because the load data mentions a certain bullet doesnt mean you have to use that bullet. as long as the weights are the same or nearly the same i.e. 165 or 168 you should be fine. Start low and work up.

Build it on Savage. There seems to be more room in a Savage Short Action and it can be custom built to your specs for under a grand with a premium match grade barrel. Plus you can do it all your self and not have to pay a smith.

IMR 4064 should give good results as well.

I bought twin marlins one in 22 mag and one in 17hmr.I sold the 17 and kept the 22 mag. Way more thump on rabbits and other critters and the littlest whisper of wind doesn't blow it around like the 17. And the ammo is way cheaper than the hmr too.

You guys need to get out more. That's a beautiful rifle in one of the sweetest calibers ever.

7mm Mag has much better ballistics than the .300. A higher B.C. means more down down range energy flatter trajectory and less wind drift. A 7 mag with 168 bergers is hard to beat and will kill absolutely anything you ever want it to.

You won't regret the savage. I have put together a few model 12s for friends and every one of them will shoot half inch or less.

Maybe at the muzzle. But at 1000 yards there's only 50 foot pound difference with 150gr bullets. Yeah the 300 is capable of higher performance but the 270 is more than capable to take elk with.

Don't shoot a big magnum and you won't have to spend money on brakes. 6.5-284, 270, 284 win and the 30-06 all kill elk easily and won't beat you up to do it. The lighter the rifle the more its going to buck even with a brake on it. I would buy the cheaper of the two and use the left over on quality glass to put on top of it. That's my two.

Get something in 6.5 or 260 they will leave any 308 in the dust past 300 yards unless you plan on shooting the big heavy 200 grainers from the 308.

Been doing it for years with nothing but excellent shooting rifles and very clean bores to show for it. I run a brush up and back then foam it up. Brass is much softer than steel and the brush will not damage the crown.

I use the gunslik foaming bore cleaner and I let it sit overnight before I patch it out. Give it time to work and I bet you get a lot of copper out.

Works really well in most everything I have tried it in. The 250 savage loves this stuff. It gives me an extra 60 fps with the Berger 115s with lower pressure.

They are very good rifles for what they are. A cheap light weight hunting rifle. I have one in 22-250 that will shoot half inch groups all day.

Ramshot hunter has worked well for me in the short mags.

Congrats a cool buck! How bout some details on that 99?

Bedding never hurts.

Going to the reloading bench saves the most.

As stated before when used in normal hunting applications you will be hard pressed to wear any of those out in your lifetime. Keep them clean and don't fire long strings when you practice and everything will be fine.

The silver cases are no harder than the normal ones to size. The only problem with them is if they ever start to chip you end up with little silver flakes everywhere.

Try some H4350, R17, ramshot hunter or Retumbo as other powder choices. If your not showing signs of pressure where your at you could always increase carefully in half grain increments and watch closely for pressure signs.

What is your barrel length? 2700 seems a little slow for that bullet and powder charge. Might need to switch powders to gain a little more consistency or adjust seating depth by .005 increments and shoot for group at 200 to see if it will tighten up.

I still don't think its the tip. Berger Bullets are renowned for their match grade quality. I run bergers almost exclusively and noticed the tips you are describing with no noticeable effect on accuracy even at long ranges. I'm thinking inconsistent powder burn or case volumes with the brass. Won't notice it much at 100 yards but shows up more when distance increases. What caliber, powder and brass are you using? What kind of rifle and has it been bedded and floated?