STOMP442

Probably going to need a 20 moa rail or the cheaper route of Burris signature zee rings with inserts to get the 308 to 1000 yards. Your going to need 33-38 moa or there abouts to get to 1000 yards depending on what bullet you will be using.

Just get Burris signature zee rings and never worry about rings again. There is nothing better.

54.0 grains of H4350 has always worked really well for me in a 270 with a 130 grain bullet. 47.5 grains of IMR 4064 is also a pet load for me.

Nice rig.your going to love that caliber. Looks like we frequent all the same forums.

My personal favorite is IMR4064 but Varget & 4895 are also popular powders for the 308. I prefer berger bullets because they consistently offer the best BCs which helps buck the wind and because my match bullet is also my hunting bullet. That being said they can be picky when it comes to shooting good. You might want to try a sierra match king until you get your accuracy issues figured out. If the bullets in the green box don't shoot then you know you have a problem.

That savage rifle should shoot much better than that even with a factory barrel. I have a couple savage barrels that shoot in the .2s and .3s. That's pretty dang good for factory barrels and I don't have one that shoots over half moa sporters or varmint contours. That being said I think you just need to find the sweet spot and do your due dillegence on brass prep. The devil is in the details when you want superb accuracy. Seperate your cases by volume, debur your flash holes and uniform your primer pockets. Get a bullet comparator to measure your bullet seating depth to the ogive of your bullet and keep a consistent seating depth as best you can. Learn your windage being as your shooting a 308 the wind will be your biggest enemy. The 155 or 185 berger hybrids would be my bullets of choice for there exceptional BCs in the 308 bore size. I would try these things first before I dropped the cash on a new barrel.

Selling as package only sorry.

Posting for a buddy of mine. His contact info will be at the bottom of this post please refer all questions to him directly. First up is a SIG Arms SHR (Swiss Hunting Rifle). Less than 100 rounds fired through the .30-06 Barrel currently installed. Also comes with a new unfired .270 Win barrel. Asking $700 Next is an Egyptian made AK 47. Comes with 2 30 round mags and 1 five round mag. 350 rounds of Wolf / Tulammmo ammunition will also be included. Asking $600 Contact Chile Dave at 928-965-4387. Please don't call after 9pm.

Personally yes I still don't think its worth it. What's so hard about turning your dial to a number? Have you ran come ups out to the ranges that you plan on shooting? Do you know exactly how many moa it takes to reach 700 yards? I am not trying to be confrontational just pointing out the fact that the trajectory calculated by a ballistics program using a b.c of .507 (Noslers) when its actually .481 (Litz) will cause some issues down range. I just feel much more confident when actually shooting the distances and recording the moa data in a log book under variable conditions to get a better understanding of what's actually happening with the bullet. To many things change to be tied down to a constant on a custom dial. Higher elevations higher and colder temps left wind or right wind all effect the trajectory of the bullet. A well documented note book and a ballistics card taped to the stock with verified data is much more useful to me anyways.

Was there any load work up at all or did you just pick a powder and charge and go with it? Personally I wouldn't waste the money on a custom turret. Chances are loads will change or you will want to use a different bullet and next thing you know you have a custom turret that don't work or match with what your shooting. Use the standard turret and shoot your distances for actual come up numbers especially with Noslers. The b.c. written in the load manual or online is estimated pretty high and if you have a turret made using that b.c. its going to be off anyways. Also a correct scope height will be needed for accurate trajectories. Lastly I would hope to find a load that would print at least half moa before I made a shot passed 500 yards. I guess what it all boils down to is there is a lot more that goes into getting a custom turret with accurate adjustments than a few shots through a chrony.

Bump. AK is spoken for SHR rifle still available.

Yes they can be different. When I find a great load for my rifles I stick with it and don't change anything unless absolutely necessary. That being said I would hold out until I could find the right components. If you do switch spend the time to verify your loads at all distances to verify that the new primers are going to work OK.

Yes located in north Phoenix I believe. They also have a website if you need it.

What difference is there between a berger that don't come apart and say a bullet like the accubond that doesn't come apart? Like I said I've never had a problem with a berger doing exactly as they claim they would. In fact I have found them to even work best when there slowed down at longer ranges.

I have done it in the past and had some success with it in cartridges based on the 30-06 case while using the slow burning powders. Generally as a rule I do not use a magnum primer until I have a powder charge over 58 grains. You will find more often than not a magnum primer can give you very erradic pressures and standard deviations in your loads when used in a standard cartridge. There are exceptions though it all depends what your rifle likes.

Just called and found out I picked up the late Nov 29 hunt. Pretty stoked looks like me and the 6.5-06AI get to make it happen after all. This was also my 2nd choice.

I wouldn't hesitate at all to shoot the berger past the 750 you have calculated especially with that bullet carrying that kind of energy. I have never had one not perform like they are supposed to even at very long ranges. If the berger did fail and by that I mean not penetrate 3-4" before fragmenting causing the massive internal damage that I know and love, it would act much like the accubond in terminal performance, expanding at least a little bit and poking a hole through the animal leaving a blood trail to follow or coming to rest somewhere inside the animal.

I like both scopes but have to say the Leopold is a much lighter scope and with its 1" tube is a lot easier and cheaper to find quality rings for. I can't tell the difference between glass quality as both offer crystal clear pictures for my eyes but I do think the Leopold is a nicer looking optic especially on a hunting rifle.

I predicted the BCs to be somewhere around what the Amax is offering as they both have the same bullet design and polymer tip. Sounds like I wasn't to far off. I knew there was no way they were getting 80-90 points higher than a berger just by looking at them. I hate the way Nosler calculates BC.

Practice practice practice. Practice from different shooting positions different angles and different ranges. Practice in adverse weather conditions in the cold in the hot in the windy in the calm. All the best equipment in the world won't make any difference if you don't practice with it and get to know the rifle. Putting the bullet where its supposed to go is more important than anything else.

On a site where 80% of the guys/gals won't shoot past 500 yards and of the 20% that do maybe only half have put in the work to be consistent at that 500+ yard ranges what's the point of talking about 1000 yard performance? The same point that makes the same 80% on this site shoot a 300 win mag or larger to harvest an 85 pound deer. If 500 yards or less is as far people are going to shoot then why don't they all shoot a 243.

This much is true. But only looking to 500 yards doesn't give a clear picture of cartridge overall performance. Pretty much any common medium game centerfire cartridge provides enough energy to make things dead at 500 yards especially these little coues deer. I know there are not varying degrees of death but there is indeed varying degrees of cartridge performance.

If you reload I wouldn't say that it is any more expensive than the 7mm mag or 300 mag to shoot. Factory ammo though probably is more expensive than the others for no other reason than it is not as popular as the others. I have no doubt that you would love the rile and the caliber but if cost to shoot is a major concern then you may be better off with a more popular factory cartridge. The .25-06, 270 Win, and .30-06 are all great calibers and work well for just about anything. If you want flat shooting lots of energy and a lot less wind drift, then the .264 Mag is very hard to beat. I dont know how much you are willing to pay for this rig but keep in mind that you could build a tack driving custom savage with match grade barrel and a fancy stock of your choice for right around a grand. Brand new and in any caliber you choose. It may not win any beauty contests but it will shoot well within the standards of that custom piece your looking at and best of all the work could all be done by you. No need for a smith with a savage.

And what they hit don't run off. Thats why I like em.

Generally guns retain their value pretty well regardless of caliber as long as they are not beat up. It sounds like a very nice set up and you should be well pleased with the caliber choice even though its not overly popular. Are you picking this up used?