STOMP442

Every Vortex I have ever laid hands on has had this problem. They are nothing but guaranteed pieces of crap! Send it off and they will send you another one just like it, that will have the exact same problem. Try dialing out to 600 or so and then come back to your zero and I bet you are 6 inches or more off. For the same money you could have bought a Leupold VX3 and been problem free.

Sold Pending funds.

I have a lightly used Nikon Monarch 6-24x50 BDC Scope for sale. This is a like new optic and has never seen field use only range work. This has been mounted on my wifes 6mmBR in Burris rings for the last two years and is in like new condition. Located in Safford asking $400 FTF or $425 shipped anywhere in the lower 48. Scope comes with everything it came with, flip up scope caps and additional turrets. I believe I even still have the original box just have to dig it out. This scope currently retails for $650-$699 depending on where you look. Optic will be listed on other sites. Buyer determined by time stamp. Trade options: Looking for quality optics no Vortex crap. Leupold VX2 6-18x40 or Sightron of similar power and quality. Scope features: http://www.nikonsportoptics.com/en/nikon-products/product/null/monarch-3-6-24x50-sf-bdc.html

6.5-06 is easily done. your can probably find everything you need on midway. Keep in mind though that the 6.5-06 and the 6.5-284 are ballistically identical, so close that even load data can be interchanged between the two. Given the popularity of the 6.5-284 it may prove easier and possibly cheaper to go that route.

Check your scope height and use the correct G7 BC drag function. Also make sure that your altitude and pressure are correct.

Awesome buck Tessa! Looks like you showed your dad how its done once again.

Where did he hit it? How far? Did he hit bone? Lots of things to consider besides bullet and velocity.

This is where you went wrong. Technically this is a "Target" bullet and not recommended for hunting. That being said, they can and do work well when hitting bone even on our little deer. I always aim for bone regardless of which style of Berger bullet I am using, I have never had an issue getting through the bone and into the good stuff. I wouldn't give up on the Bergers just yet, switch to the 180 VLD hunting and I bet your results are much more to your liking.

So did you use the 6.5-284 to take this bull? Inquiring minds want to know.

I have found that if I am in my message box or looking at someones profile that when I click the new content button I will get the newest joined members or if there is none, it will say no new content. Clicking the new content button again like Lance said seems to fix it.

All I have been able to find at Walmart has been carbon fiber. Who exactly is the metal guy here in town? I actually have a couple members that say they have some here in town I'm going to get. Thank you, everyone for the help.

Looking for a few old aluminum arrows. They don't need to be in good shape or even have nocks or broad heads. Really only need 2-4 of them to last me a good long while.

I will be the first to admit that I know noting about arrows other than they make great bedding pillars. I may be looking for the 5/16 dia. shafts. All I know is that they fit nicely in a 3/8" hole.

I'm looking for the 3/8 diameter shafts. Coues thanks for the offer, the next time I make it up that way I will let you know.

Obviously this has nothing to do with the fact that barrels shoot better when fouled than squeeky clean. When you shoot a new barrel you are "breaking it in"........the whole shoot and clean mess is a waste of time and materials. I run patches through a new barrel to clean out oil and crud from the manufacturing process and then don't touch them till the accuracy drops off. What I meant by my statement was that I was following proper break-in procedures while I was grouping. Meaning I would shoot clean, shoot clean a five shot group and repeat. Groups would in fact get smaller as I went along. We all know barrels shoot better fouled.

I have quite a few premium quality barrels and I have on more than one occasion watched the gun shoot tighter and tighter groups during the break-in process while shooting the same load. I am a believer in proper break in.

I have a policy through state farm that I started years ago that covers theft or damage from a house fire or vehicle accident or what have you. It's based on the replacement cost of the items, so once a year I provide a list of all the firearms I have, the optics on said firearms, the serial numbers and the cost to replace them at current market values. Some items I have I know I could never replace so I mark their value accordingly. I have over 20 items on my personal policy and my monthly premium is only like $9 bucks a month. Very reasonable cost for a little peace of mind.

Leupold will work great and if it doesn't have turrets you can now order replacement screw on turrets for the old turn screw scopes, similar to what Stoney point used to sell, but in MOA clicks and directly from Leupold now.

It can be done and they can shoot just as well as anything out there. 6.5-06 Ackley improved on a Winchester model 70 260 Remington on a Ruger M77 MKII

My first thought is your Vortex Scope is bad. I have messed with too many to count that are steaming piles of garbage and won't hold zero. The other thought I have is copper fouling, like King Zero said. Your normal cleaning solvents will sometimes not even begin to pull copper from the barrel. Get a good foaming bore cleaner and let it sit for a couple hours and then patch it out. If the patch comes out a dark blue color you have got a lot of fouling going on. Repeat the process until your patches come out clean then try some more load development. Retumbo or H4831 are my first go to powders for the 7mm Mag.

MidwayUSA has Shilen barrel blanks in stock in many lengths, contours and grades. $175-$375 depending on what you want to spend. I picked up a 26" chrome moly match #5 contour for $175 and built a .260 out of it. Barrel shoots amazingly well and I don't wish I spent the extra $200 at all.

The nice thing about 6.5's is you don't have to push those big heavy bullets. Just about any 6.5 is capable of sub MOA accuracy at 600 yards and kills just as well. I don't think I said I HAD to push a big heavy bullet for sun moa accuracy at 600? No, you don't have too to get sub MOA accuracy but you do HAVE to run 168gr or heavier to show any improvement ballistically over the 6.5 140's

Don't waste you money on a Vortex. 6.5 brass is easily made by running .270 brass through your 6.5-06 die.

Amax's work great on deer. I have killed one with a 140 and I watched a buddies wife take one at 680 yards with the 120. Full penetration of both shoulders and liquefied insides. Deer dropped where he stood.

Allways better to reload but especially so with the .260 Remington. Unfortunately, there are not many factory loads available for this caliber and even fewer quality factory loads. Pick up a pound of H4350, some CCI primers and whatever bullet you want to shoot and go kill stuff. Being as you are wanting to set up for your kids you may want to look into the 123 Amax to keep felt recoil a little lower. The 140 class either Amax or Berger will help extend the effective range of the cartridge. My Remington Model Seven with a 20" barrel is pushing the 123's at 2800 with 42.5gr of H4350 and shoots very well .