STOMP442

That's really about it. The ability to simply fire form .270 brass and go. No need for trimming to length. performance wise you will be hard pressed to find any notable difference between them.

Yes, this is normally called the cream of wheat method as most of the time this is what people use for this process. I have done it in the past but have since moved to just fireforming cases as I do barrel break in. I like to break in with at least 50 rounds and I use a cheap bullet like a Hornady SST in the same weight that I am wanting to run pick a max load of the parent cartridge and go to the range. Accuracy is generally pretty good and when your done you have 50 fully formed cases to begin serious load development with. If you want more cases than 50 I generally load some more fireform loads and save them for when its time to clean the barrel and then fire two or three of them to foul the barrel with. Eventually, you end up with as many cases you want and not really wasting any barrel life.

Yeah bergers can be a bit finicky but I have seen them shoot really well with lots of jump. You might also try the hybrids or the new elite hunters they just come out with with better results than the Vlds. I finished up a Ruger in 6.5-06 Ackley just before I did yours and it shot the hybrids really well with just about any powder and charge I put through it and the Ruger's have a notoriously short mag length.

Great write up! It looks like that is coming along nicely. In the 6.5-06 Ackley that I built I had much better accuracy after I turned about .002" off the necks and switched to Magnum primers.That seemed to fix the flyer problem for me. The load I settled on was 57.5gr of H4831 and a CCI magnum primers with 140 bergers at mag length. Velocity is right at 3175fps with this load.

proprecisionrifles.com Paul does some fantastic work and is very quick on the turn around.

They don't need to when they have the 6.5x55. In a modern action like the Tikka the 6.5 swede is a very capable cartridge. The old Mauser actions severely limited the potential of this cartridge with velocities topping out in the 2700fps range. With modern powders and actions, velocities of 2800-2900 is pretty easily done in the 6.5x55 and Lapua brass is cheap. The 6.5x55 will do anything the Creed will and very very close to anything the 6.5-284 will while being much easier on barrels and more efficient. It's very easy to load for, stupid accurate and looked over way to often in my opinion.

Anything from savage or tikka out of the box is very hard to beat.

The wife wanted to hunt Mule deer this year down in 30B. We had fun, seen a lot of deer and passed on a bunch of smaller bucks every day but just couldn't close the deal on one we wanted to hang on the wall.

Do all the numbers match? Value is always more when numbers match. Floor plate bolt handle and receiver should all have matching serial #. Can you show us the proof stamps on the front ring of the reciever? Looks to be a large ring German 98k at first look. Also looks like the stock has been sporterized somewhat. You can pick these up in similar condition at pawn shops for right around $200 but like anything its worth what you can get for it. This would make a great starting point for a custom rifle though.

With the amount and cost of opening the bolt face and modifying or replacing the extractor it may be a better decision to sell what you have and buy a magnum if a magnum is what you have to have. Truth be told the ol 06 will kill anything the big magnums will. It may not have a cool factor and it may not be sleek and sexy but there is a reason it has been around for over a hundred years. It just works. If you want to upgrade and get a bit more performance while your at it the 6.5-06 Ackley or .280 Ackley would work really well on that action and bolt face. Rugers are very easy to re-barrel and straight forward. Down side to the Ruger is there is not a lot of options for stocks out there. You are pretty much stuck with a Boyds or Houge. As far as smiths go I can help you out there if you are interested shoot me a PM and we can talk about it.

What model exactly are you looking at? If this one of the newer models with the detachable mag the .22-250 and .308 are one in the same.

Nice Job Jeff! Congrats to the girls as well.

Just like the title says. I have a new in box nutmeg laminate stock for a Remington model 788 Short action. The stock has been out of the box long enough to realize I messed up and ordered the short action instead of the long action. Asking $100 shipped to the lower 48 or trade for a stock inlet for a Winchester model 70 long action. Cross posted so the first PM by time stamp wins.

Sold pending funds.

This is why I do not own a scope with exposed turrets and why I never recommend them. I have heard of this happening way too many times.

Sounds to me like you need to bump the shoulder. Only need to move it .002 to chamber properly. Neck sizing can be done with a full length die as well just back it out a half turn. Most of the time you can get away with just neck sizing for a few firings before having to bump the shoulder but if you are running a stiff load it may require bumping each time. By bumping it a couple thousandths you are not over working brass as you would be with full length sizing.

I don't have the shooter app to compare it to. I did however, compare it to the Berger online calculator which is what I used in the past and it did tighten the numbers up from that a bit. The Berger calc always got me close within a couple clicks at most ranges but it doesn't account for twist rate, spin drift, aerodynamic jump or any of those other small variables that the applied ballistics app does. With the online calc I would always guess at what the actual temp would be for the range that day and use absolute pressure. The AB App pulls all that info from the nearest weather station automatically so you have accurate atmospherics. That works out nicely as the nearest weather station is only about 2 miles Northeast from our local range.

The better the app the better the results will be, meaning the more input options that you have and can account for the more the calculations can be fine tuned. Sounds to me like you need to just make your own chart and practice with it. Find a load and shoot your rifle at known distances and write the numbers down. Take note of the weather conditions and temps you are shooting in and verify out in the field at different elevations and angles and get to know your rifle.

If you can fit one but not the others you are probably only looking at adjusting your seating depth another .010" for fully functional feeding. I would look into adjusting seating depth to mag length and see what that does to your load. I am willing to bet accuracy stays the same and if it does change a simple powder adjustment will bring it back in. In my experience with the ELD line of bullets, they have not been overly sensitive to seating depth.

I recently purchased the Applied ballistics app after reading Bryan Litz book on modern advancements in long range shooting. He has a chapter in there about ballistics apps and programs and how he developed and tested his app multiple times and at multiple ranges all over the world in varying conditions. With his app he was able to shoot aout to 1500 yards with solutions giving him accurate predictions to within 1" most of the time out to 1000 yards and within 6" out to 1500 yards. I found that absolutely incredible and decided to buy right then and there. I gave it a good test this weekend on a few different rifles after gathering chrono data from the magneto speed. Each rifle was spot on out to 1000 yards, one shot hits on everything, well worth the money. Like Bryan says though crap in crap out, you must take the time to input all the variables correctly muzzle velocity, std dev, twist rate, scope height and atmospherics all need to be correct. The other thing I really like about it is the bullet library having his correct and verified BC numbers and drag models for lots of different bullets. It's pricey but if you want to use an app for shooting it's well worth the money and only costs a little more to go first class.

The wife and I called in a double last year and it was about 2pm in the afternoon.

Scope height is a big one lots of people miss. To determine scope height measure the scope bell diameter and divide that number by 2. Then measure the diameter of the barrel directly in front of the scope bell and divide that number by 2. You then measure the gap between the bottom of your scope bell and the top of the barrel and add all those measurements together to get your scope height. Like lance says it will more than likely be between 1.7 - 2". Personally, I don't use a phone or tablet when out hunting so I will use the app while at the range to give me a good estimation of what I need to dial for any given range and then fine tune from there. Generally the apps will put me within half a minute or a couple clicks at any given range but I keep a log of the temp and weather conditions and the actual MOA I have to dial for my particular rifle to hit center target. I then make a chart and tape it to my stock so that I have actual shot data to reference. Then I go out and practice at various locations and weather conditions and shoot at different angles to determine what my rifle is actually doing. I am sure I do things the hard way but the best app in the world is no substitute for practice.

I have done some load work on a 7mmLRM with the 195s in a 26" 9 twist barrel and they stabilized just fine and shot really well. Based on Bergers twist rate calculator, my elevation, atmospherics and a muzzle velocity of 2850fps we are getting a SG of 1.48 which is right on the edge of marginal and comfortable and BC is only being compromised by 1%. The 28 Nosler has a bit more boiler room and should be able to run the 195s just fine.

With a big case like the 28 I wouldn't go below a 180 and the 195 Berger would be where I started with some H1000.

I always recommend bedding. When done correctly it never hurts and almost always improves a rifles accuracy. When tuning up a rifle I never want to wonder if there was something I could have done to squeak out that extra little bit of accuracy. Bedding, floating the barrel and brass prep including sorting by case volume ensures your rifle is running at its peak potential. If you are one of those guys that think hitting a paper plate at 100 yards is good enough bedding probably won't gain you anything. But if you are trying to maximize your rifles potential then bedding is an important step.