cactusjack

Sold

I dont. Snug them up. Check them. If they loosen then up, I have used a wrap of Teflon. Blue loctite works too. If the barrel is threaded well, it should not happen often.

Get a suppressor too. Avoid the flinch

Look at diligent defense DTF ti S 8.6 or OCL Lithium. The Lithium is stupid light. It has barrel restrictions as do most cans, the r9 included

R9 is a good can. I tend to avoid the 1 size fits all, but starting out its not a bad idea.

The only Asian guy I have ever met named Harlan

What you are saying about wishing you had started sooner is what everyone says. Plinking with the kids. Hunting and not blasting your ears. Amazing. Don't overlook the Rugged Oculus

Bump

I saw something, however I also wouldn't hold my breath. The NFA stands for National Firearms Act, which was enacted by Congress in 1934, so based on my understanding of Civics, wouldn't Congress have to change it? Or the Courts would have to strike it down? I've been wrong once before...

Great can

How do you like the Oculus

Some more suppressor related porn Integral 22s, one a High Standard HDM knockoff of the OSS and one a modern version. My Glock 40mos javelina rig. My youngest son with his Savage Rascal My V7 6mmArc stupid lightweight build My Marlin Dark 45/70 with a Silencerco Hybrid 46M and my son shooting my Rem 700 308. He weighed almost as much as the rifle at the time. 865168_10200796486705122_1123630709_n (1).mp4

Rimfire cans cost between 200 and 600, plus other fees and taxes. Taxes being local, state and the 200 federal tax stamp. Rifle cans cost between 400 to 2000, depending on many factors. There is not a great market for used suppressors since new ones are still legal to produce and own privately. The technology has advanced so much that the newer cans perform so much better and are so much lighter than the older ones it kinda makes them a hold on to item. Plus like I said earlier the 200 tax stamp must be paid each time they change hands on a form 4. Example 1. Your buddy in Montana has a rifle can that he is offering you for 500 dollars. Sounds like a decent price. From state to state NFA items can not be transferred on a form 4. It must be on a form 3. So it costs 200 to get it moved onto a form 3 by a Montana dealer. That dealer typically charges a fee to transfer it to a dealer in Az. The Az dealer charges a fee to receive it and do the forms to get it back on a form 4 to you. You pay 200 to get it on that form 4. so you are now into that can for 500+200+100+100+200= Too much for a used can. Example 2. Your buddy has a can and is asking 500. He lives in your same state. You can do a person to person form 4 as long as you both live in the same state. So its only 500+200+you have to do all your own paperwork or pay a dealer (SOT not just a FFL dealer) 100 to do it= too much for a used can, unless it is something special or it is a smokin deal.

yes and depending on how they are manufactured. Most AR15 556 threaded barrels are threaded 1/2x28. Most AR10 barrels and 300blk are threaded 5/8x24. I said most. Some crazy stuff has been done, but these are the standard now. where we come into issues is with custom threaded rifles. Some oddball stuff out there or the smith didnt thread the barrel concentric to the bore. If they are only putting a brake on it, the brake is short, the bullet path typically doesnt intersect with the metal. With a 6 inch or longer suppressor, the threads being concentric to the bore is pretty important, unless you like a bigger hole in an odd location on the end or side of your suppressor. We use alignment rods to check the bullet path. If you have a rifle with a birdcage flash hider, they typically have a crush washer on it for timing it. When you use a suppressor, we do not use those crush washers. We want the can or the muzzle device indexed on the square shoulder of the barrel or on the taper with a tapered mount. to give you a solid answer, taking the flash suppressor off and checking. Pictures might give us an idea.

People ask what is the best..... That depends on many things. How much you are willing to spend. How you are going to use it? How much you are willing to carry. What is available? This goes with everything, cars, guns boots..... I quit chasing the quietest suppressor. I go with manufactures that build quality products that perform well, and they stand behind them and are easy to deal with. Some companies warranty their products even if you make a mistake or have a failure. Others, you are on your own. A all in one can. Some people want to have one can or suppressor and use it on everything. It can be done, however there are big trade offs. A rimfire can should be taken apart and cleaned on a regular basis. They have lead and powder build up inside. They get dirty. You can shoot 22 through 556 and larger cans, but when you shoot the full blast rounds through them you vaporize toxic mess. I avoid aluminum rimfire cans, because you can not dip them in a solution that cleans them easily. I go with titanium or stainless steel. Serviceable rifle cans are an option that you can clean. They have their own issues. When you clean them, you change the can and typically get a point of impact shift (have to adjust scope) Rifle cans. I never clean my muffler or catalytic converter or my rifle cans. They are self cleaning. The attachment point, threads or mounts need to be cleaned, but not the can internals. I always ask how you are planning on using it. If you are bench shooting, backpack hunting, or are a 556 mag dump guy, I can advise you as to which way to look. Steel cans are heavy but can take a beating. Titanium is lightweight and more expensive but cant take tons of heat. I do not use my titanium cans on my machine guns unless I want to see real expensive sparkler.