recurveman

Can I change a setting on the phone?

Looks great. It's kind of funny how old his horns look but his hide and face are in just fantastic condition. Frequently the nose and face are all beat up from fighting.

Oh I think you guys will have a great time!!!!!!!

Option #2 - get a real rifle and scope!!!!!

Sight your gun in for 200 yards. You will basically have a gun that you can point and shoot out to 250 yards and kill an animal. No need to over think this.

The Lab radar by 10 fold. The magneto is great if you just want to shoot it once or twice to check speed. The issue with the Magneto is that it touches your barrel so you can't do load development with that chrono. The lab radar doesn't touch your gun so you can always shoot it during load development. I've used the magneto to find my max really quick by just dumping rounds into the ground and checking my speed and pressures. It will affect your accuracy when you use it.

tight groups are good. 1/2 MOA isn't bad but the key to long range shooting is having very consistent velocities. You need to know if shot to shot is the same velocity.

Don't be afraid of getting the BTX over just a strait spotter. I haven't had a time where if felt like I needed more than 30 or 35 power to tell what their headgear looked like.

once you find a pair you will love them. I've been wearing mine out and just love them. I can't say I like them better than my 15's yet but I think they might get there.

That is a monster flyer!!!!! If you are still shooting flyers like that then you have a ton of work to do behind the gun. Those flyers are not acceptable on any level. I really don't believe in flyers and if you have them then the connection between the gun and the ground really needs to spend more time shooting and not worry so much about load development. Here is how I do load development. I pick one powder that I think will work with my cartridge. Typically you can research and see which powders are the best for your application. I make sure the powder isn't temperature sensitive. Then I find my max quickly. Normally you have a good idea of where you max is at with some research. I'll just go out and dump rounds into the ground to find my max. I'll start with a middle of the road powder charge and work my way up. Normally I'll go up in .5 grain increments until I hit the advertised MAX and then I'll drop down to .2 or .3 grain changes as I move above advertised MAX. Once you have signs of pressure (flattened primers, extractor marks, hard bolt lift, ect) then I stop shooting rounds. You will need a bullet puller at some point in time for loads that can't be fired. After I find my MAX I start to look for nodes. The way you do that is by starting with a powder charge and adding a little powder at a time. I typically do .5 grains per load and shoot 4-5 shots per load. I bring that powder up to max (maybe a bit below max) and you will see that different loads will create vertical groups and others will have little to no vertical (this is very important at distance). Then once I find a load (and velocity) that I like I will come back and shoot more groups with smaller grain weight changes in the load. So lets say I start with 46 grains and end at 50 grains (MAX) for my first test. I decide that 48.5 grains is a good looking load for the most part. Then I will go back with 48.0, 48.2,48.4,48.6,48.8,49 grains. Each will have 4-5 shots per load. At that point you will find a load that works really good. Then after you find the good powder charge you could start to look at seating depth but I rarely work at it that hard. It is more of a fine tuning part of the equation and typically I've got a gun shooting good enough at that point. A little side note. Your speeds will vary dramatically until you get about 50-75 rounds down the tube. A Chrono is a must for me when doing load development. It really is a huge deal. You will see things with a chrono that are super important. I had one load for my .243 where we ended up shooting 46 grains of powder. We ran the load up to 50 grains and the speed never changed once we got past 46 grains. The groups opened up but the speed was within 20 feet per second even with 4 more grains of powder. So we settled on 46 grains and the load is lights out. You wouldn't know this without a chrono.

So during load development you really want your group to have all bullets at the same elevation. The group in the last pic screams you need to keep working on your load. That group is almost strait up and down. That tells me your bullet is leaving the barrel at different times due to a wide range in velocities. I would think you need to keep working on your load.

I've heard a rumor that he might trade for a set of 15 power swaro's.

Probably going to be a challenge. I've got a pair and they are very awesome. You will love a set once you get them.

Do me a favor and make sure that you have a guy with you that has experience with shooting guns. Not trying to be a jerk but we all started out learning from others around us that were much more experienced than ourselves.

I tried the razor 50mm spotting scope a few years ago. Complete junk. My guess is that the 50mm part was causing the issue. Clarity really decreased with magnification. I couldn't see game well at 1000 yards let alone a mile. If you want to have good clarity out past a mile you will need good quality optics and a bit more weight. No need to carry weight if it doesn't get you where you need to be. Many say that the higher the magnification the better the glass needs to be in order to have good clarity.

That is an awesome package. I've got one of them and I was really impressed at how well it shot.

I have a bag I'm willing to trade. Think I used it once.

Moving the bullet in will increase pressure. I've seen it. It also isn't consistent from load to load. That is one of the reasons I like to know where my max is at. I also make sure to use a chronograph for every shot during load development. You will learn a ton from the chrono. You will also find many "nodes" for accuracy. I typically will not be the first node below max. I like to pick the second node below max......Typically. Sometimes is will be an even slower node depending on application.

typically we play with powder charges first to get the load close and to find out the max load. I always bring the load up to max so I know how close I am to max. Typically I don't run my loads close to max but I like to know where it is at. Then we mess with seating depth. Think of seating depth as a fine tuning and the powder charge as the macro tuning. So, powder first then seating depth.

It would be great to purchase these mounts that are sideways. Then they could be hung properly in a new home!!!! The mounts would appreciate a different view too.

FL every time. My father in law shoots the 1000 yard matches all the time across the southwest. Him and all of his shooting buddies all FL size their brass. I would encourage you to do the same. Your biggest concern should be reliability. Getting the tightest tolerances isn't always the most important part. Having brass that feeds consistently is important. You won't notice a difference between neck and FL sizing. If you want to see differences then get the best reloading dies you can. They should run you about $250 not the $40 redding dies. I think it is WAY more important to send a mandrel down the inside of the brass than just about anything else. That will give you very consistent neck tension and I believe that is one of the most important aspects of really tight groups.

Don't worry man.......law enforcement guys love to hang out and talk about guns.

Great information right here. The labradar (or good chrono) is an absolute must. Zero reason to do load development without this tool. Reading the external conditions is also the key to hitting your target.

I always root for women and kids. This happens to be both!!!! Make sure she has a great time and enjoy the experience with her. Hopefully a monster steps in front of you guys.

To me the time is worth more than the money. But that is just me. I used to shoot Lapua brass too and run it through the dies. Nothing wrong with that but it does take quite a bit of time to complete the reloading process. The initial work required to get lapua up to the needed standards to shoot the first time is fairly substantial. That can be part of the fun too. But it will take a bunch of time to get it right.