jeffro

That just cracked me up.

FL size your brass. You can use a light crimp, just dont bulge the case or it will not feed Dont jam the bullet into the lands Work up a load based on reloading data.

Only thing I can think of is De-milling the rifle. Need more info

+1 270 Swarovski Leica Zeiss In that order for me. I have the top 2 and they have performed great for me. I have seen many others that didnt work well at all.

Get a good range finder, and an ACI. Angle cos indicator. This set up will searve you better along with a BC.

Ive always heard to keep the brushes out of the barrels. That is what I have always done, and never have had a problem with copper in a good barrel. I wouldnt ever run a bronze brush down my custom barrels, but thats just me. They have never copper fouled much at all.

Im in Queen Creek. I dont have any pics right now, but I can get some in a few days.

He said to make him some offers if your interested.

For 500yrds I would use my 308WIN.

I brought my own break to Van Horn to have put on. I dont like the style that he makes.

Google search http://www.mygunroom.com/dvgunshop/

Dave Van Horn does a nice job on break installs, if your looking for someone in state.

In state or out of state.

If this is with new brass, is your COAL to long. This would be causing you to jam the bullet into the lands. Factory/Match/turn-neck chamber?

Youngbuck, from what I have heard, it should serve you well.

youngbuck, what 338 do you have coming. I remember you looking into them.

Whats your budget? Then we can go from there.

REM700 = good rifle 300RUM = good cal. Good rifle.

+1 azgutpile Keep moving up slowly until one of the following occurs; you start getting a sticky bolt, you star seeing a small circle form on the base of the case where the ejector plunger would contact it, the lettering starts getting on the head of the case starts deforming/ smeared, you reach the max load that you have in your book Looking at the primers only isnt that good of a test of pressure due to primer cups being very different in hardness. FED215 are very soft, and CCI250 are hard. They will look very different even with the same load. CCI250s will not be all that flatened and your rifle may be over pressure.

I do all my own, and have done many for others over the years. Its not all that hard, you just need to be patient and work slow in the begining. There are lots of good pics out there that can help with the process. I have some pics of my jobs that may help you out. If you pm your email, I can send you some.

First off, Im not a hot rod reloader at all, but 3000fps is slow with the 300RUM. Im getting 2955fps with a 24in 300WM. No press at all, and good brass life. I would let the rifle tell you what it likes, within reason. Was your barrel slow with other loads, or fast. Some bolts will crater way before the pressure is to high. This is particularly true with some of the new REM700s. The 208 should shoot much better than 1moa with a decent barrel. Another idea is to run a ladder test, and the rifle will tell you where it is happy.

You can call them or According to the "Blue Book of Gun Values", the coding continues as follows: Month Codes: [first letter] B - L - A - C - K - P - O - W - D - E - R - X 1 - 2 - 3 - 4 - 5 - 6 - 7 - 8 - 9 - 10 - 11 - 12 Year:______Code: [second (and third*) letters] 1930_______ Y 1931_______ Z 1932_______ A 1933_______ B 1934_______ C 1935_______ D 1936_______ E 1937_______ F 1938_______ G 1939_______ H 1940_______ J 1941_______ K 1942_______ L 1943_______ MMZ 1944_______ NN 1945_______ PP 1946_______ RR 1947_______ SS 1948_______ TT 1949_______ UU 1950_______ WW 1951_______ XX 1952_______ YY 1953_______ ZZ 1954_______ A 1955_______ B 1956_______ C 1957_______ D 1958_______ E 1959_______ F 1960_______ G 1961_______ H 1962_______ J 1963_______ K 1964_______ L 1965_______ M 1966_______ N 1967_______ P 1968_______ R 1969_______ S 1970_______ T 1971_______ U 1972_______ W 1973_______ X 1974_______ Y 1975_______ Z 1976_______ I 1977_______ O 1978_______ Q 1979_______ V 1980_______ A 1981_______ B 1982_______ C 1983_______ D 1984_______ E 1985_______ F 1986_______ G 1987_______ H 1988_______ I 1989_______ J 1990_______ K 1991_______ L 1992_______ M 1993_______ N 1994_______ O 1995_______ P 1996_______ Q 1997_______ R 1998_______ S 1999_______ T 2000_______ U 2001_______ W 2002_______ X * the years 1943 though 1953 had double letters: ie, MM = 1943

Looks good. Im glad its all working out for you.

Just thought of another one. "Hammer"

Not what I call them, but some call them "Lasers".