L Cazador

If you buy Norma brass you won't have to turn the necks. It's very accurate and consistent. I was amazed. You can also buy ADG brass at half a buck more, it's consistent as well. I agree with neck turning making a more consistent cartridge but if you spend the extra money for brass it's not a completely necessary thing. Plus one on Red Rabbits post. Raven Rocks Precision rocks with great prices and no tax and free shipping over $150

If you're going to buy new brass invest in a Hornady headspace gauge to set your sizing die bump. Trying to set a .002" bump without it is not the best way. I would recommend .003-.004" bump. The Hornady gauge comes with several inserts so you can use it to set up your other caliber dies properly. Great investment.

The Norma brass is $2 per piece and available and all you need are 50 pieces. You'll have 10 times better brass than factory ammo brass and you'll start with brass that will fit your chamber perfectly if you do your part in reloading it. Understanding how to set up your reloading dies is essential in reloading the WSM calibers. Powders that work well in the 270WSM with the 140-150 grain bullets are N570, Retumbo, N560, and H1000. The Berger elite hunter or any bullet with a tangent ogive will work best in the short fat cartridges. Don't shoot Hornady they can be difficult to tune.

You may want to try new reloading brass instead of brass from factory ammo. Factory ammo is made shorter to fit all chambers and it's also loaded pretty hot. So firing a factory load can result in some distortion of the dimensions. For a while there was quite the shortage of reloading brass in the WSM calibers so many resorted to firing factory ammo and then reloading it. The availability of this brass has come back so you may want to try reloading brass. Start with a moderate load to fireform brass to your chamber and then progress carefully from there being careful not to over expand brass. I had this issue with a customer's rifle and remedied the whole issue with new brass. You can buy 270 WSM brass right now at Raven Rocks Precision in both Norma and ADG brands. Thanks for getting back to us on this issue.

I use nothing but Nightforce but you're getting a heavy scope and a high priced scope. For a budget scope, I like the Leupold Mark 3 HD, 8X24X50mm. At $700 it's a really great scope. Not too keen on the Tactical milling reticle but for the price and performance I'll put up with it. It's always out for stock for good reason, so good luck finding one.

Jim is AAA+ in all the things he does. Buy with confidence!

TTT

1). 3 50 count boxes of Sellier and Bellot, 380 ACP ammo, 92 grain Full metal jacket $40 2). SPF-3 50 count boxes of 38 Super Auto 130 grain full metal jacket $60- 1box is Aguila, 2 boxes of American Eagle by Federal- SPF 3). SPF -4 50 count boxes of 8mm Nambu 83 grain full metal jacket by Precision cartridge $20 each minimum 2 boxes per purchase. Or buy all for $60-SPF Meet at Sportsmans in Tucson or at Scheels Nov 13th. Cash only. Must be 18 to purchase.

TTT

Chris 38 Super ammo is yours if you can wait till the 13th. I'll let you know for sure on Monday before. Meet at Scheels.

Yep, I'll be there about the 13th, Wednesday. I'll let you know for sure that Monday before. Yes you bought the Nambu ammo from me. Meet at Scheels. Let me know I'll mark sold when I hear from you.

Are you using the coated grass seed? Some folks don't realize there is a bird repellant seed coating on grass seed. Pennington brand is one.

If I can interject here, I have experience in with the Berger 30 cal. 245 gr. bullet in 300 PRC. 300 RUM, 300 Norma Mag, and 30-378 Weatherby. I hope you have an 8 twist barrel in the rifle you're planning on using this in. Another thing to consider are you ready for the slower powders and the slower speeds that this bullet is going to require and give you? I can only say the 30/378 is the only case that gave me the best speed, about 2800-2900 fps. In the RUM and the Norma it's more like 2700fps. With that said are you willing to settle for those speeds when you could be shooting a 210-215 grain class at a faster speed with less drop and more stability out of a 1-9 twist? Frankly deer or elk ain't going to know the difference, they're not that smart! 😉 Let me just add that they are great bullets in the right rifle and in the right brass case!

Nightforce will fix the scope if that what it is, no problem. A simple check is to shoot a square and see if the adjustments are accurate. Most likely it's a bedding problem if you took it apart and it got worst. Also it could have a severe carbon build up in the throat so the more shots you shoot the worst it will get. Unless you have a bore scope you won't see it. I'm going to guess that's what the problem is. How many shots down the pipe? Are you using a carbon remover like Bore Tech C4? Are you using a brush or patches?

I've got an original XP100 7BR. Private message sent.

What's the length of pull? Weight? And what's the with of the barrel channel at the tip? Thanks

Do you have the certificate and the case it shipped with?

Mike I agree with you there are some instruments out there that are not going to do the job. While I certainly would recommend a blade micrometer for the job of measuring head expansion it may not be an option for someone on a budget. I'd rather recommend investing in a high quality caliper like the Mitutoyo IP67 which has a resolution of .0001" and accurately does the job. I use a blade micrometer that measures to .00001" but my Mitutoyo IP67 does the job equally well. Both of the units in the picture are in the $200 range.

I saw this happen to a friend last year. When we checked the head diameter expansion it was over 1 1/2 thousands expanded. That load was 3 grains under max. Brass capacity, bore, and powder lot all play a big role. I recommend you do a powder ladder first and find your the maximum for that brass, bullet, primer, and rifle. Proceed in increments of .3 tenths powder weight until you hit .0005" head expansion. That will be the maximum load for that combo of components.

Not 8 thou, 8 ten thousands. Thats less than one thousandths of an inch. When you have hit one thousandths (.001") of an inch you have over expanded the case head and your resizing die may not bring the case back into a proper dimension. And if you caliper doesn't have that resolution you may want to think about investing in a caliper that does. Mitutoyo, Starrett, or Fowler can be found with .0001" resolution.

The best way to know if you have a max load situation is to monitor the head expansion. Head expansion over .0008" is an indication of an over maximum load. It is not good for your brass or your rifle. Measure just above the extractor slot on the case head and use a micrometer or a caliper with a .0001" resolution. You should make a note of the case head dimension at the start of your load development in case you have a situation like this where you need to know what case head expansion is. I'm sure that case with the primer leak has an over expanded head. You may want to try reducing that load a bit and backing off on the seating depth as well. By the way did you wet tumble those cases?

Hey thanks for the info I found some Norma brass. Many thanks to all.

Found what I needed! Thanks all!

Thanks but not Hornady. I really appreciate your offer.