L Cazador

I have a nice waffle top from early 60/s. Value will never go down if you take care of it like I have. Excellent condition. PM me if interested.

Where are you located? Those look like Bueler rings are they, and does base match? Is recoil pad marked Weatherby?

If that's the hybrid muzzle brake it came with, it's worth $800-900.

Brunos had them a couple of weeks ago. They were some foreign make. Get on their email list.

Retinopathy is not an easy thing to handle. You should start with blood work and your personal physician. When that gets done your physician will recommend an opthalmologist that best suits your needs.

I shoot 100y-200Br and UBR score and 1000yd BR.

Here you go perfect what Ten Turks says!! Use Mag primers over 55 grains of powder. I've been doing this for 50 years of reloading thanks to my mentor! POI, goup size, are dependent on temp, humidity, elevation, and reloading techniques. Never work up loads until your brass has been fireformed to your chamber and never work up a load where there will be more than 20 degrees plus or minus of that temperature you encountered during load work process. For competition I either load at the range or work loads two-three days before! Ammo that you load this year may not be good for next years hunt. Factory ammo? Sure it's good forever! You weren't expecting good accuracy to go with that statement? it would be an oxymoron!! LOL!!

Simply put a can will decrease the perceptible recoil. Quite seems to do wondrous things to the shooter. Kind of like that wind in face makes you think differently about wind velocity!! You'll have to develop new loads since pressure, POI, and group size will change dramatically with the installation of a suppressor. Your ears will reflect that, though! LOL!!

I sent message again. I'll take the two Walker 700 triggers, the 700SA stainless magazine box, spring, and follower, and the ADL guard. See PM

PM sent.

Out of stock at Midway! That didn't last long. Like 10 minutes maybe!

I've mounted more than 20 scopes in the last three months. Most for hunting rifles. Some that were previously mounted too but not correctly. First let me start by saying there some tools you will need. If you don't have these tools stop right there and let a professional do the job properly. Here's the long process. Tools: 1). An inch pound torque wrench 2), A lapping bar and lapping compound 3). A leveling system 4) An optical bore sighter or collimator Start by checking screws for the base to see if they're correct length. Simply done by putting the two front screws on the base or bases one at a time. Start with the very front screw first. After you've torqued the first screw usually 35-40 inch pounds of torque for base screws, try moving the base side to side. If you can do this, the screw is too long and you have made contact with the barrel threads it will cause the screw to loosen as you shoot your rifle. Next remove that screw and thread the next screw on the front and repeat the process above. You will have to trim screws on a grinder if too long or replace if too short. Once you determine both front screws are of proper length, move on to the rear screws to check for proper length. This is easy as you'll be able to remove the bolt and with a flash light see where the screw ends are from underneath. When you have verified all the screws are of proper length, mount the base to the action. If needed apply blue thread locking compound to the screws. Next process is to find the proper orientation of the scope on the receiver. You should have an equal amount of space between the rings and the adjustment turrets and you should also have three to four inches of eye relief at the rear. You can loosely place the top half of one of the scope rings to keep the scope in place while you're doing the orientation. Mark this position with masking tape on the scope tube. Next remove the ring top and scope and lock the bottom half of the scope rings to base using 35-40 inch pounds of torque. You're now ready to check ring alignment with the lapping bar. Apply a small amount of lapping compound to the rings and rock the bar back and forth till you see the bright spots where contact is being made. If these spots are equally consistent in contact there is no need to go any further, level and mount your scope and sight in. In the twenty or more scopes that I recently mounted, all needed further lapping to achieve at least 50% contact. Once done with lapping mark your rings for proper orientation if ever removed. I put a little tic mark with a center punch on the front upper and lower half of the front ring and two tic marks on the upper and lower halves of the rear ring. Next place an orientation level on the base and level the rifle in a vise and lock it. Next place the front level on the barrel and orient it with the rear level on the base. Remove the base level and replace the lower ring halves as they were oriented before. Place the scope on the lower ring halves and then add the upper halves leaving them loose till scope is properly leveled. Place the rear level on the scope elevation turret and orient and level with the level on the barrel. Now tighten the scope rings leaving equal amounts of gap between the ring halves. You can be very exact using a feeler gauge to do this. Now you're ready to bore sight. If you run out of adjustment either vertically or horizontally, you will have to start over and maybe insert shims to successfully bore sight. Scope manufacturers ask that you not tighten scope rings to more than 25 inch pounds as greater torque can result in erratic scope adjustments or damage to scope. I use the Level, level by Wheeler. See video on Midway USA. By the way, the scope brands and ring brands I recently mounted were Nightforce, Leupold, Vortex. There was one AR style rifle and two custom rifles. Glad to answer questions.

The one bullet diameter minimum is so the bullet can stay concentric or straight. When you're working ammo through a magazine this becomes very important. If you're loading single shot by hand it matters little. And no crimping is not going to improve that dimension, the bullet can still be tipped off center if there isn't a sufficient amount of bullet shank in the case.

You add the two amounts, 78.5 and 75.6= 154.1, then divide by two= 77 grains . You're correct.

With nothing to eat but charred leftovers and the only water in little shallow pools with moss covered sludge, starvation and thirst? Pretty much statewide. And what you harvest becomes questionable. Hence, Game & Fish wants to know details of game that you harvest. Many questions.

You better shoot fast because the wind going to change before the bullet gets there!!! LOL!! It's a trigger pulling contest with the 6.5 Creed!

Short action or long action?? Where are you located?

Moving away from the rifling can produce higher velocity. This was Roy Weatherby's approach with long freebore producing higher velocity. Finding your relation of bullet to lands is best done by removing the firing pin assembly from the bolt and seating a bullet incrementally longer till it touches the lands. This is for bolt action firearms of course. Finding the "touch" for your rifle chamber is important from the standpoint of safety. Getting a bullet stuck while shooting a match or on a hunt can have drastic results and ruin that shooting experience! And no. Adding a suppressor is not plausible! Your bullet to lands measurement is not accurate or your load is too hot to begin with.

I use a SEB rest for the front and a heavy Edgewood rear bag for load work and initial sight in. I also deploy wind flags and a wind meter for all my load work and sight in work! Gotta love those guys that say "there's no wind at my range". How would you know without a wind flag?? Same guys that make that lucky shot at 500 yards without ever checking the wind. My final sight in is with what I will be using in the field. That's either a backpack or a bipod. There's always a lot of tweaking to be done! If you want to carry your lead sled with you out to field, yeah OK! I know a guy that deer hunts off a portable bench! No kidding!! Now that there's some funny stuff, I don't care who you are!!

Are they same lot number, 30 cal?

You have your terminology skewed. Case length is just that, length of case from base of case to end of neck or case length... COL is "cartridge overall length". That is " cartridge length from base of case to end of bullet". CBTO is cartridge base to ogive on bullet. And OAL is the sum of several components and not always a cartridge! OAL is an abused acronym! It could be used to measure the length of your boat, trailer, and truck pulling it, as in the overall length of the truck, boat, and trailer. As in the OAL of the three components. And yes you're die set up is totally scewed. If you live in tucson, I'll be glad to help you get your dies set up. Free! Don't feel bad most reloaders don't have a clue on how to set their dies up properly!

that's possible depending where you were at in relation to ogive to lands. Did you strip the bolt and measure lands to ogive?

Very good learning experience and very observant on your part!! There are only two ogives on the market. While Berger contends their hybrids are actually a blend of the two, secant and tangent, it's a tangent (I know Brian Litz is going to disagree with that! LOL) A secant ogive moves the nose of the bullet back from the lands while a tangent ogive moves it forward closer to the lands. A bullet seated closer to the lands can multiply the pressure exponentially! Over pressure puts needless wear and tear on the brass and your rifle's action! Start a new load. You may see the best load ever for that rifle! How do you tell secant from tangent? The secant has a sharp pointed nose where the tangent is more curved and gradual.

You're asking a very broad question. It's best to use that bullet's manufacturer's reloading data. Todays manufacturers all have reloading data available on the internet. There's no substitute for load testing in your rifle. What works in your buddy's rifle isn't going to work the same in your's. And don't think that you can substitute bullets in your old load either cause you can't find the old bullets you used to load in it!

Back in day when I was shooting competitive clays. Fit was the key. The difference between that 100 straight or the 98. Adjustable guns are the modern way to go for a near perfect fit! That AAAA+ wood and extra engraving on a Kolar or a Krieghoff isn't going to net extra birds!