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Chris 38 Super ammo is yours if you can wait till the 13th. I'll let you know for sure on Monday before. Meet at Scheels.

Yep, I'll be there about the 13th, Wednesday. I'll let you know for sure that Monday before. Yes you bought the Nambu ammo from me. Meet at Scheels. Let me know I'll mark sold when I hear from you.

Are you using the coated grass seed? Some folks don't realize there is a bird repellant seed coating on grass seed. Pennington brand is one.

If I can interject here, I have experience in with the Berger 30 cal. 245 gr. bullet in 300 PRC. 300 RUM, 300 Norma Mag, and 30-378 Weatherby. I hope you have an 8 twist barrel in the rifle you're planning on using this in. Another thing to consider are you ready for the slower powders and the slower speeds that this bullet is going to require and give you? I can only say the 30/378 is the only case that gave me the best speed, about 2800-2900 fps. In the RUM and the Norma it's more like 2700fps. With that said are you willing to settle for those speeds when you could be shooting a 210-215 grain class at a faster speed with less drop and more stability out of a 1-9 twist? Frankly deer or elk ain't going to know the difference, they're not that smart! 😉 Let me just add that they are great bullets in the right rifle and in the right brass case!

Nightforce will fix the scope if that what it is, no problem. A simple check is to shoot a square and see if the adjustments are accurate. Most likely it's a bedding problem if you took it apart and it got worst. Also it could have a severe carbon build up in the throat so the more shots you shoot the worst it will get. Unless you have a bore scope you won't see it. I'm going to guess that's what the problem is. How many shots down the pipe? Are you using a carbon remover like Bore Tech C4? Are you using a brush or patches?

I've got an original XP100 7BR. Private message sent.

What's the length of pull? Weight? And what's the with of the barrel channel at the tip? Thanks

Do you have the certificate and the case it shipped with?

Mike I agree with you there are some instruments out there that are not going to do the job. While I certainly would recommend a blade micrometer for the job of measuring head expansion it may not be an option for someone on a budget. I'd rather recommend investing in a high quality caliper like the Mitutoyo IP67 which has a resolution of .0001" and accurately does the job. I use a blade micrometer that measures to .00001" but my Mitutoyo IP67 does the job equally well. Both of the units in the picture are in the $200 range.

I saw this happen to a friend last year. When we checked the head diameter expansion it was over 1 1/2 thousands expanded. That load was 3 grains under max. Brass capacity, bore, and powder lot all play a big role. I recommend you do a powder ladder first and find your the maximum for that brass, bullet, primer, and rifle. Proceed in increments of .3 tenths powder weight until you hit .0005" head expansion. That will be the maximum load for that combo of components.

Not 8 thou, 8 ten thousands. Thats less than one thousandths of an inch. When you have hit one thousandths (.001") of an inch you have over expanded the case head and your resizing die may not bring the case back into a proper dimension. And if you caliper doesn't have that resolution you may want to think about investing in a caliper that does. Mitutoyo, Starrett, or Fowler can be found with .0001" resolution.

The best way to know if you have a max load situation is to monitor the head expansion. Head expansion over .0008" is an indication of an over maximum load. It is not good for your brass or your rifle. Measure just above the extractor slot on the case head and use a micrometer or a caliper with a .0001" resolution. You should make a note of the case head dimension at the start of your load development in case you have a situation like this where you need to know what case head expansion is. I'm sure that case with the primer leak has an over expanded head. You may want to try reducing that load a bit and backing off on the seating depth as well. By the way did you wet tumble those cases?

Hey thanks for the info I found some Norma brass. Many thanks to all.

Found what I needed! Thanks all!

Thanks but not Hornady. I really appreciate your offer.

Good news I have all three brands of shell holders and measured height. Lee and Redding are both .248" and RCBS is .244" so you should be able to acheive an additional .004" bump by buying the RCBS. You measure the flat that sits on top of the ram to the flat on top of the shellholder. Do not measure from the bottom of the groove that fits into the ram. Hope that helps.

Winchester model 70 sporter should have a generous chamber and not a tight chamber but things happen. If you have a caliper take it along when you buy the shell holder. Measure the Lee from top to bottom and don't buy the RCBS unless it's shorter than the Lee. Going to Brunos is your best option as they have Redding, RCBS, and Lee shell holders. And if you don't have a caliper Jason Bruno or someone there can measure your Lee holder and also measure the RCBS and Redding. If you can't get to Brunos I guess you'll just have to take a chance. I'm in Tucson if you're close I could help.

Is this a factory rifle? What brand? Redding competition shell holders aren't going to help you they go the other direction and reduce bump in two thousands increments, Do you have a Hornady headspace guage to measure bump? Lose the RCBS lube and try sizing with Redding sizing die wax. Lube the entire case with the sizing die wax and try running the case quickly into the die then let it dwell for a few seconds in the die before extracting the case. Letting the case dwell a bit longer reduces brass springback. If this still doesn't give you desired bump, you'll have to grind the shell holder down. Are you using a RCBS brand shell holder or a different brand? RCBS dies should be used with RCBS shell holders. Also make sure the ram and shell holder are in firm contact with the bottom of the die.

Nowadays it's more who can ship you the ammo without damage. I buy from Midway when they have the ship free offer. Grafs, Natchez, and Precision reloading all offer either free shipping or a flat rate. The problem is most of them use flimsy boxes and little or no packing so you wind up with broken boxes and damaged ammo.

There you go, something wrong with that .287 bushing. I've seen that before with Hornaday. Hornady and the word "precision" is an oxy-moron, LOL! Enjoy your new founded reloading experience.

I'm thinking that measurement was a misread of the caliper. Use the sharp end of the caliper to measure the neck, Mitutoyu, Starrett, and Fowler are most reliable calipers. Then there's the issue that bushing was mis marked. Try the next bushing below it and see what you get.

Did you use the Hornady Precision Hunter brass after you fired the factory round in your rifle or did you use new Hornady reloading brass? Don't understand how you got .283" neck diameter with a .287" neck bushing. It doesn't matter what the brass thickness is, sizing with a .287" bushing is going to give you that measurement. A thicker brass neck is going to render a larger " round diameter" at the neck. So if you measured a loaded factory neck there could be a disparaging difference between the factory round and your reloaded cartridge using the reloading brass. The right way to measure for bushing needed would be like mentioned above. Measure average neck thickness of the reloading brass and then add bullet diameter for a loaded round diameter. You would then use a bushing .002"-.003" less. Are you using a caliper or micrometer to measure neck. And nope don't use the expander, it introduces increased bullet runout. Frankly Hornady brass has a lot of runout. More runout than I would care to have. You may want to use Norma or Lapua brass. I neck turn all my brass whether it's for hunting or competition.

Craftsman and others make a nice sturdy bench with enough drawers and table top big enough to to hold two or three presses. Add some peg board or slat board on the wall behind and you'll have a nice respectable looking bench.