L Cazador

The difference between a Leupold VX6 and a Nightforce NXS is 8 ounces. Carrying another 8 ounces isn't going to break my back. Yes you're lucky or you just haven't shot enough ammo to have the scope fail. With a light 300 Weatherby like that I'm sure you aren't burning up that barrel, 🤣! Leupold is a great scope but not the scope a Nightforce is.

In all fairness when a scope goes from a 3 times to an 8 times in power magnification you will lose some clarity and parallax alignment ease. In my opinion a 5 times power increase is about the maximum you can do without losing some flexibility. Manufacturers are trying to give you a lower power at the low end with a higher power at the high end with an 8 times scope like the NX8. So yeah a Mark 5HD, a 5 times power increase scope may be brighter and have a bigger eye box. Everything looks better in bright sunlight but the true test is at dawn or dusk. My choice is Nightforce whether it's 100 yd competition,1K competition or hunting. And repair and return has been great although I have returned only one 12X42 competition scope that has been on a number of 1K guns. I bought that scope in 1990!

The key is find a load under max that shoots well. The SAMMI dimension at the case head above the extractor groove is .555". Don't exceed that and set your sizing die to bump shoulder .003-.004". This amount of bump is the headspace needed in a hunting cartridge for quick and easy chambering of repeat shots. You will need a Hornady headspace gauge to set your sizing die for the correct bump (shoulder set back). Pic of Hornady headspace gauge and 270WSM SAMMI dimensions. So for a .003" bump on the cartridge in the picture I would set my die to dimension of 1.182".

It's about which one is going to take the most hammering and which is going to get back in your hands quicker when it fails. Nightforce will take the most beating with a heavy recoil caliber and has the best resale value than the two scopes you suggest. If that build is a light gun, yes even more recoil. I'm always surprised that shooters don't consider recoil more often when buying a scope. I wouldn't want the scope quitting on me in the middle of a hunt.

Plus one on Brunos. Probably the only place that carries bushings for Wilson or Redding but they may have RCBS as well. Wilson and Redding are interchangeable. Midway, Precision Reloading, and Grafs on the internet.

If you buy Norma brass you won't have to turn the necks. It's very accurate and consistent. I was amazed. You can also buy ADG brass at half a buck more, it's consistent as well. I agree with neck turning making a more consistent cartridge but if you spend the extra money for brass it's not a completely necessary thing. Plus one on Red Rabbits post. Raven Rocks Precision rocks with great prices and no tax and free shipping over $150

If you're going to buy new brass invest in a Hornady headspace gauge to set your sizing die bump. Trying to set a .002" bump without it is not the best way. I would recommend .003-.004" bump. The Hornady gauge comes with several inserts so you can use it to set up your other caliber dies properly. Great investment.

The Norma brass is $2 per piece and available and all you need are 50 pieces. You'll have 10 times better brass than factory ammo brass and you'll start with brass that will fit your chamber perfectly if you do your part in reloading it. Understanding how to set up your reloading dies is essential in reloading the WSM calibers. Powders that work well in the 270WSM with the 140-150 grain bullets are N570, Retumbo, N560, and H1000. The Berger elite hunter or any bullet with a tangent ogive will work best in the short fat cartridges. Don't shoot Hornady they can be difficult to tune.

You may want to try new reloading brass instead of brass from factory ammo. Factory ammo is made shorter to fit all chambers and it's also loaded pretty hot. So firing a factory load can result in some distortion of the dimensions. For a while there was quite the shortage of reloading brass in the WSM calibers so many resorted to firing factory ammo and then reloading it. The availability of this brass has come back so you may want to try reloading brass. Start with a moderate load to fireform brass to your chamber and then progress carefully from there being careful not to over expand brass. I had this issue with a customer's rifle and remedied the whole issue with new brass. You can buy 270 WSM brass right now at Raven Rocks Precision in both Norma and ADG brands. Thanks for getting back to us on this issue.

I use nothing but Nightforce but you're getting a heavy scope and a high priced scope. For a budget scope, I like the Leupold Mark 3 HD, 8X24X50mm. At $700 it's a really great scope. Not too keen on the Tactical milling reticle but for the price and performance I'll put up with it. It's always out for stock for good reason, so good luck finding one.

Jim is AAA+ in all the things he does. Buy with confidence!

TTT

1). 3 50 count boxes of Sellier and Bellot, 380 ACP ammo, 92 grain Full metal jacket $40 2). SPF-3 50 count boxes of 38 Super Auto 130 grain full metal jacket $60- 1box is Aguila, 2 boxes of American Eagle by Federal- SPF 3). SPF -4 50 count boxes of 8mm Nambu 83 grain full metal jacket by Precision cartridge $20 each minimum 2 boxes per purchase. Or buy all for $60-SPF Meet at Sportsmans in Tucson or at Scheels Nov 13th. Cash only. Must be 18 to purchase.

TTT

Chris 38 Super ammo is yours if you can wait till the 13th. I'll let you know for sure on Monday before. Meet at Scheels.

Yep, I'll be there about the 13th, Wednesday. I'll let you know for sure that Monday before. Yes you bought the Nambu ammo from me. Meet at Scheels. Let me know I'll mark sold when I hear from you.

Are you using the coated grass seed? Some folks don't realize there is a bird repellant seed coating on grass seed. Pennington brand is one.

If I can interject here, I have experience in with the Berger 30 cal. 245 gr. bullet in 300 PRC. 300 RUM, 300 Norma Mag, and 30-378 Weatherby. I hope you have an 8 twist barrel in the rifle you're planning on using this in. Another thing to consider are you ready for the slower powders and the slower speeds that this bullet is going to require and give you? I can only say the 30/378 is the only case that gave me the best speed, about 2800-2900 fps. In the RUM and the Norma it's more like 2700fps. With that said are you willing to settle for those speeds when you could be shooting a 210-215 grain class at a faster speed with less drop and more stability out of a 1-9 twist? Frankly deer or elk ain't going to know the difference, they're not that smart! 😉 Let me just add that they are great bullets in the right rifle and in the right brass case!

Nightforce will fix the scope if that what it is, no problem. A simple check is to shoot a square and see if the adjustments are accurate. Most likely it's a bedding problem if you took it apart and it got worst. Also it could have a severe carbon build up in the throat so the more shots you shoot the worst it will get. Unless you have a bore scope you won't see it. I'm going to guess that's what the problem is. How many shots down the pipe? Are you using a carbon remover like Bore Tech C4? Are you using a brush or patches?

I've got an original XP100 7BR. Private message sent.

What's the length of pull? Weight? And what's the with of the barrel channel at the tip? Thanks

Do you have the certificate and the case it shipped with?

Mike I agree with you there are some instruments out there that are not going to do the job. While I certainly would recommend a blade micrometer for the job of measuring head expansion it may not be an option for someone on a budget. I'd rather recommend investing in a high quality caliper like the Mitutoyo IP67 which has a resolution of .0001" and accurately does the job. I use a blade micrometer that measures to .00001" but my Mitutoyo IP67 does the job equally well. Both of the units in the picture are in the $200 range.

I saw this happen to a friend last year. When we checked the head diameter expansion it was over 1 1/2 thousands expanded. That load was 3 grains under max. Brass capacity, bore, and powder lot all play a big role. I recommend you do a powder ladder first and find your the maximum for that brass, bullet, primer, and rifle. Proceed in increments of .3 tenths powder weight until you hit .0005" head expansion. That will be the maximum load for that combo of components.