L Cazador

The video is on You Tube. Video is about 48 minutes too long, LOL!

Hornady makes ammo and .267" diameter bullets for the Carcano. FYI

To be announced tomorrow. Looks like a shortened 300 PRC or 28 Nosler with 30 degree shoulder. Probably 140's at 3000-3100fps mark. Nothing that hasn't been done before. I'm sure it can't be better than the 6.5 Creedmoor, that does 'everything" !!! LOL!!

I think the only way to contact them is by walking in. Their phone is constant busy and the web site is down.

Ballistic Products Inc. has the buffer, buckshot, and a great manual specific to buck shot reloading. Forgot to mention that manual.

PM me if you need further help.

Loading buckshot is a bit more complicated than regular shot. Here's some basic info for loading buckshot. I've been reloading with buckshot for the last 40 plus years. You will need a buffer if you want to shoot a good even pattern. The buffer also prevents shot deformation. Damaged or flattened shot doesn't fly as far, as long, or as straight as round shot. Ballistic products makes a buffer #47. You will also need a reloading scale to weigh the pellets and the buffer. A 1 1/2 oz. load should weight 1 1/2oz with buffer and pellets. You'll have to fill a wad with pellets and buffer and then weigh it. Choose a 3 or 4 petal wad to keep the shot together as long as possible for maximum range. It also offers more protection for the shot than a multi petal wad like a Windjammer. Hopefully your shotgun has a modified choke which is the best choke for buckshot. You'll need a shotgun reloading manual to find the load that works for your components. Here's some info on the number of buckshot per ounce. Triple OOO 6 pellets per ounce, OO 8 per ounce, and O 9 per ounce. Lyman makes a great shotgun reloading manual.

I've got a 4.5X14X40 VX3. Matte finish, CDS finger adjustable turrets, fine duplex, one inch tube, adjustable objective. Super clean scope in like new condition. I think I have box and sun shade but I'll have to check. PM me for more details.

If you're here in Tucson, I'll take the bullets and primers.

Lance left a very important piece of info out. The Hybrids, target or hunting bullets, are a bit better suited for shooting in a factory rifle. Berger designed the bullet for a long jump into the rifleing from a magazine length cartridge. I would disagree that the secant ogive is easier to tune over a tangent ogive in a custom chamber. So if you have a factory rifle shoot the Hybrids!

Throw away the powder keep the cans. You can fertilize your trees with it. Cans are collectible. And the most important question and is always left out when somebody lists something here is: where are located, LOL!

Use Bore tech C4 to get that powder fouling out. The fouling buries itself in the machine marks in the barrel. It'll take 20 or so patches. Mine actually started shooting better after a hundred rounds. I bore scoped the barrel when I bought it and I sure didn't think it would be a shooter. It's actually gotten smoother after a hundred rounds. Don't forget to clean the chamber ring.

That's a heck of deal when you count the rebate! I bought one last year and it's a shooter. Pillar bed the stock and float the barrel, it'll improve the way it shoots. Also I installed a Jewell trigger to replace the factory. You can't get more than 20 rounds down the bore without having to give it a good cleaning but that's pretty much the case with all factory barrels. They can shoot good you just have to clean more often. By the way are you sure that's primed Lapua brass? Just checked that's a Bruno special. It's going to go fast.

Gees, I became old since you first posted the original post. Is that correct??? 2016??? You'll have to bait that coues into 100 yards range to put him down with that 38-55. I had a friend shoot one in head at 250 yards it gave him an oweey! When he woke up he had an egg the size of a grapefruit on his head. And no he wasn't aiming at his head.LOL !!!

How much do I need to buy to get it free, LOL, LOL???

Go to MidwayUSA.com they have Vortex Viper HS 30mm scope 6-24 for $399. New! Free shipping this weekend.

Check Brownells. They still had some for $380 not long ago in single shot or repeater version. You're best off buying a complete rifle for your project. You can sell stock, barrel, trigger, and bottom metal if you not going to use it. Also check Pacific Tool & gauge. They have some completely trued and blue printed actions. Dave Kiff is a great guy to deal with.

Some of that powder may have been recalled. So it's best to check lot numbers and email the company. I think AA 2495 has been recently recalled. If it doesn't have the smell of ether it has probably already started to decompose. If you get a brown vapor after opening it's gone and could be used for fertilizer. The cans are probably more valuable to collectors than the powder is. Some of those cans go back to the early 60's. Using any of it for reloading is an experience. It doesn't look like it was stored properly so pressure swings could go both ways up or way down. It's amazing what we had to work with back in the day. The Thunderbird powder brings back some great memories.

For ground swatting 6's are great but there isn't much meat left for the skillet, LOL! Number 8's place a good concentration of shot in a 30 inch circle and don't cook the bird in the process. Late season shots with 7 1/2 at 50 yards are great ground swatting rounds and will leave enough meat for the a good meal!!

I've got some 218 Bee brass. Hornady 100ct new. $60 shipped unless you're in Tucson $50 FTF.

The vinegar attacked the brass and could've etched the case to the point it may have compromised the strength. You can dissolve brass with vinegar if left in contact for extended periods of time. It should clean up in a tumbler but it may require some polishing with steel wool to remove the severely etched surfaces.

Buy a reloading manual that's specific to the brand of bullets that you intend to shoot. If you like Hornady bullets then buy a Hornady manual. I have all the different brands but since I shoot mostly Berger bullets I find my Berger manual is the most helpful to my current needs. If you can afford more than one than by all means buy them.

My Berger book(first edition) does not have the 215g bullet but it does have the 210g and the 230g. Loads for Retumbo are not listed. I assume the reason is that Berger considers it a very slow option for the 210 or 230g bullets in the 300RUM. I'd go to the Hodgdon powder web site for load info. A tip when trying any new load. Find your bullet touch on the rifling and always start your load at a minimum of ten thousands off the rifling. Hornady makes a bullet seating guage and there are others that will render great results when looking for a proper seating depth. It is very dangerous to try any load with the bullet jammed into the rifling! A safe load can turn into a very unsafe load with the bullet jammed!!

Gre-Tan gunsmithing in Colorado does fantastic bolt jobs. Greg does accurate precise work with good turnaround time. Greg Tannell owner.

I think you have more than a carbon ring. You also have a throat full of carbon. I think what you are seeing is not rifling marks on that sharpie marked bullet it's carbon in the throat. Note the irregularity. Use Bore Tech C4 on every cleaning to prevent any carbon build up. Also use a phosphor bronze brush with a bronze core to clean that carbon ring on every cleaning. Use a brush that;s larger than your bore to do an effective job on the carbon ring. So for your 6.5 you would use a .284 or 7mm brush and spin that brush till carbon ring is gone. Spin the brush on the cleaning rod with your fingers. Do not use a drill to spin it. JB bore paste will help but I doubt the Kroil will do anything. On the throat you would use a 6.5 phosphor bronze brush with JB bore paste. You have one heck of job ahead. I start every cleaning by patching with C4 till the black is gone. Then I spin an oversize brush and clean the carbon ring out. I then dry patch the C4 out and then follow with two patches of Sweets, let Sweets stand for 10 minutes and then brush with Bore Shine 4 stokes for every shot fired. I then run a patch of Hydrogen peroxide to neutralize and foam out copper and powder fouling. And then I dry patch till patches come out clean. Finally I run a patch with Kroil as a bore conditioner. This regimen is for factory barrels. For my custom barrels I use C4 and patch the bore till the carbon is gone. Then I spin an oversize brush with C4 to remove the carbon ring and then dry patch. I then follow with a brush to remove any copper and then dry patch till clean. Sounds like a lot of work but it's all bore scope verified to be the best bore cleaning regimen ever! A clean bore will win matches and kill what you are aiming at. Two very important things when you clean never mix any chemicals and dry patch each chemical out before going to the next chemical with the exception of the Sweets and the Butch's Bore Shine which are both copper removers. Never clean without covering your scope lenses and never clean without a good bore guide. I use only Lucas bore guides but Possum Hollow bore guides are also good. Do not use one of those one size fits all bore guides. By the way I don't think the cleaning pellets are going to get into that throat or chamber neck.