sjvcon

Thanks CMC. I'll follow that advice. Its good to know that Timney is one of those companies that truly understands how to treat customers. I'm sure this trigger will be great.

I'm about to embark on installing a Timney Trigger in a Ruger M77 Mark II. It isn't a simple drop in ... there's going to be some fitting involved for the safety. Wish me luck ... hopefully I won't mess it up? I picked up the trigger from Timney in person. I was really impressed with the owner. I got there right around 5PM. Told him it was my first Timney. He brought me back to show me a couple of installed units (which broke like glass), gave me a tour of the machining facility, introduced me to some of his key designers/machinists. Really great guy. If this trigger works as well as I think it will, I'll be buying quite a few more from him. People skills folks ... that and good customer support is what makes for good business. Oh yeah ... your product has to be right too.

I had one done by Van Horn some time back. They did a pretty good job on it. They make their own and it works pretty well. Accuracy Speaks out at Rio Salado Sportsman's Club could probably handle that too. I have not had them do work, but have heard good things about them. Wouldn't hurt to get a quote from them.

Good GOD what a Monster!!! Just once in this lifetime ... just once ...

Here's small one my buddy and his Dad found in 32.

Which Zeiss are you looking at? I have the Conquest 4.5-14x50mm with the tactical turrets. It is a great scope for the money ... I think I paid only about $700 for it at the time a few years back. Has the mil-dot reticle (#43). When I bought it, Alex at EuroOptics recommended that I go with the Conquest over the Diavari, even though I had the money to do the other. He said for the difference, the Conquest was better bang for the buck. I'd buy another one if I had the opportunity to get it at the same price. Most of the time I've seen them higher though. I'd check out those FFP Viper Scopes from Vortex. They have some pretty nice features, and an FFP scope for under a grand is supposedly a pretty good price. If the glass is crisp, I'd sure think about it, but I'd want to look through the glass first and see that the FFP didn't screw me up too much. If you really think you want the Zeiss, but want to try one first, I have no problem pulling mine from my .300 Ultra and letting you give it a whirl ... just don't break it ... I know where you work ... It's nothing to me but a little time putting it back on and re-sighting ... gives me an excuse to hit the range. Either that, or you can just shoot my rifle ... it isn't a .30-378, but it isn't leaps and bounds behind it either.

Yeah ... the budget kinda dictates the choices, of which there are more than a few.

Is it Push Feed or Controlled Round Feed (Post 64 Classic Action)? Can you post a close up picture of the action?

Anyone out there have any idea why a Colt Huntsman/Woodsman would not lock back after the last round from the magazine is fired? Seems like I remember it locking back in the past ... not doing it now. Thanks.

I guess you gotta wonder when a guy like McMillan says that the manufacturers just want you to use up 10% of your barrel life on the break in ... Maybe I've been duped ... wouldn't be the first time. I do like the comment where the guy says to shoot until you see an accuracy fall off and then clean it. That makes a heck of a lot of sense. I will say that one of my buddies has a factory Ruger that he rarely, if ever, cleaned ... he couldn't get two down range anywhere close to each other until we cleaned the heck of of it, and after that it shot well for a bit before needing cleaned again. Kinda lends some creedance to that statement. 308Nut may be right though about the difference between a custom tube and a factory tube. The factory tube is a heck of a lot rougher to start with, and unless you send it off to be lapped, or do the lapping yourself, I'd think breaking it in would be beneficial. Sure couldn't hurt, right??? I mean a rougher barrel has to powder and copper foul a heck of a lot faster I'd think. In any case, the breaking procedure I followed sure didn't hurt the accurancy of my rifles any more than my poor aim ... Still like my nylon brushes over copper. The Old Timer who sold me on that made a similar point to the one firstcoueswas80 made about using a toothbrush or bbq brush to clean your car/truck. Basically that you let the chemical do the work and scrub with a brush that will aggitate the barrel but not scratch the crap out of it. Made a lot of sense when he said it, and seems pretty clear that metal on metal is a lot harsher than nylon on metal.

Ronin ... is my browser screwed up? When I pull up his barrel break procedure "skipping no steps" is is blank all the way down to the last statement. I took that to mean he doesn't break the barrel in ... is that incorrect? Maybe I need to do an update or something???

Mr. Jon- there is a great article on barrel break in on riflemansjournal. i have three rem 700 7mm mags. most important is to adjust the trigger, and mount a leup scope ; next is good ammo. :lol: DESERT - if you ever shot against German Salazar; you would have to believe He know rifle barrels. ron So I take it the guy doesn't believe in breaking in barrels? Well ... okay. Some guys do and some don't. Some manufacturers do and some don't. I'd say it is a preference thing. Not sure it hurts following some kind of procedure though, and I feel a little better about my investment when I take time and care with it ... but that is me. I won't knock the German's knowledge though ... he can probably outshoot me blindfolded and backward.

Yeah ... I've never had to use the IOSSO that is talked about. Also, I should mention that I've switched from Sweet's to Hoppe's #9 for most of the general cleaning. Sweet's comes out only occasionally. It is great for copper fouling, but you don't need to get the copper out that often. I've heard some great things about "Witch's Brew" ... I was going to buy that and give it a try as well. Any thoughts on that one? Also, I should note that I use nylon brushes almost exclusively for the brushing. That is some wisdom an Old Timer imparted on me some years back, and his reasoning made good sense.

Here is the guide that I have used. http://www.rifle-accuracy-reports.com/barrel-break-in.html One of the most critical parts is the Bore Guide. Use one. They are critical. I buy mine from a guy named Mike Lucas ... his are great. I have never had the guts to try the "mixture" that "Speedy" recommends. I've read too many times that combining chemicals is not good, and he has enough suggestions on products that are easy to get.

I watched it all the time last season. This season the high school crap really got to me. Couldn't watch it after George got everyone to send Jamie to the Elimination Challenge despite being a performer. The first season was a heck of a lot better ... still some of the drama garbage, but mostly great shooting. I'll only watch next season if they don't have a bunch of teenage drama queens on the show.

I was always told that with Triple 7's you should not go more than 100 Grains (rough equivalent of 150 grains of pyrodex) if you want your barrel to last and you want your sabot to do what it is supposed to and maintain your accuracy. I guess that is Hooey!!! That said, I have no trouble hitting a 6" steel plate at 200 yards (most times ... 1x scopes take some steady hands) with 2-50 Grain Triple Seven's and a 250 Grain Barnes T-EZ. Someone told me to get 20 Gauge Wads and make a sabot "chair" with those all copper bullets because they don't deform enough with the powder charge to conform to the barrel and get stabilized, but I have not done that. Doesn't seem to hurt what I can hit so far. NICE GROUP 308 ... REALLY NICE!!!!!!!

Have you tried looking at Accuracy Innovations website? They may or may not make a Mannlicher style stock, but if I were going with wood, I'd give them very strong consideration. I've seen some write ups on their stuff ... full length aluminum bedding blocks ... several choices of wood ... lots of other options. Not cheap ... but then, you went Mauser, so you weren't expecting it to be cheap. Action looks great in Robar ... looks like you'll have a fine rifle when it is done.

Hey Jim ... you are a rare breed buddy. For a guide to be so helpful and share that kind of knowledge is really rare and refreshing. If I ever get drawn up there and decide to do a guided hunt, you'll be the first guy I call! Luck on your hunt muzzlehunter75. I'm sure your gonna do just fine.

French warrior...I LOVE IT!!! That's the best one liner in a long while.

5 shells apply only to semi auto centerfire rifles. Bolt and lever action should be fine? From R12-4-303: "4. Semiautomatic centerfire rifles with a magazine capacity of more than five cartridges, unless the magazine is modified with a filler or stop that cannot be removed without disassembling the magazine;" So I think that you are fine with Bolt or Lever holding more than 5. In any case, if you were concerned you could fabricate a plug for the tube ... though I suspect it would take stripping the rifle down to get it in or out, which is a pain.

Should be a 6 shot .30-30 unless I'm off base ... love those Marlins.

Oh DUDE!!!!!!!!! YOU CAN'T DO THAT ............

I was skunked ... my dad was skunked ... my kids were skunked ... my buddy drew a 6A Archery Bull Tag ... LUCKY #*#@!!!!!!!!!!!!

I'd jump on that Nikon at that price. Have one on my son's rifle and it is pretty nice...I paid more and would again. Nikon puts out decent stuff at all levels.

You have to like the way they fit your eyes/face. They have great glass, and from what I understand a great warranty, but I didn't care for the way they felt. Everyone is different though. I'd make sure to spend some time looking through them first.