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punxsutawn

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Everything posted by punxsutawn

  1. punxsutawn

    Reloading 300 win mag

    Actually, I have the same issue with a few of my rifles. I seat to max magazine length less .005" and don't have any accuracy issues once the load is developed. A pretty standard minimum seating depth is usually the caliber diameter... a 308 should be at least .308" deep. I had tried to load a 125 grain Nosler in my 300RSAUM and at magazine length, there was not enough purchase to keep the bullet from moving out of the case! I even tried a Lee factory crimp die and that did not help. Once I seated the bullet .308" , the problem went away. Also, just to make sure what works in my mind at least, I measured each round (and wrote that number on the round with a Sharpie) placed them in the magazine, fired a shot and then measured the rounds in the mag to see if the bullets moved foreward at all. Hope that helps!
  2. punxsutawn

    Sucessful 2010 pig hunt

    Congrats!! What an amazing shot! What broadhead did you use?
  3. punxsutawn

    130 grain TTSX

    I use that bullet in my 300 Remington short action ultra mag autoloader and am getting 3600 fps out of it. Probably a little less in the .30-06 but it is a good round. I also use the 168 TTSX in both my .30-06 and the 300 RSAUM. I think it's a much better bullet. Only problem with the 130 TTSX is that it is too short and has a tendency to move forward about .002-.005" in the case due to the recoil. I had Lee make me a factory crimp die for it and most of the problem went away, but the bullet will still move some in the case. Also as a note, I have worked up loads that are typically 1.5 - 2.0 grains above the max stated with no pressure signs at all. As far as accuracy, I get nice little clover leaf patterns at 100 yards with both bullets. Hope that helps.
  4. punxsutawn

    WTB 458 Win Mag Dies

    WTB 458 Win Mag dies...preferably Lyman or RCBS. Thanks!
  5. punxsutawn

    Ruger P90 Special Edition

    PM sent!
  6. punxsutawn

    Insurance Rider

    I looked into it a couple years ago and the long and short of it is that after about 2.5 years premiums, that $$$ amount would pay for a safe, so I bought a safe at one of the gun shows. However, if they are stolen from your on a hunt or something like that, you're pretty much out of luck. I believe my normal policy only covers about $1500 for firearms. Pretty minimal!! BTW. If you buy a safe....they're never big enough. I have one of the largest ones sold to normal public and it's already full!!
  7. I have had one for about 3 years now and have run into a couple of issues which were mostly due to my error. The first of which lead to a similar issue you seem to have. If the charge was say 70 grains of whatever.... If I input 70 instead of 70.0 I would get quite a variation. The decimal has to be in place. Another issue I had is that sometimes I would get a grain or two of powder under the pan. I now use a can of compressed air to remove the powder should that happen. One last issue with some powders is the need for the orifice reducer. You should have a small plug that screws into the end of the barrel. I believe with cylinder type powders, this really makes a difference. Other than that, I don't have any issues however, I have heard that some people have issues if there is a floresent light source too close to the unit, there could be interference of some sort. I have not had that problem. Hope that helps!
  8. punxsutawn

    Rifle scope for 7mm

    I have Lupys, Nikons, and couple of Zeiss Rapid Z 800's. The Zeiss scopes are absolutely the clearest scopes I've ever owned, even compared side by side with the Swaro's my buddy has. Lupy used to be American made but now almost all of their glass (as well as most other mfg's) is made it the South Pacific. Even the last Nikon I got was made in the Asia! For a good price, I usually order them from www.theopticzone.com. If you call them, they will tell you the actual price which is usually quite a bit lower than the internet price. JMHO!
  9. punxsutawn

    H1000 for trade

    +1 on the IMR7828. I've used RL22 and IMR4831 very successfully however, it's a little hard to get those powders these days. I recently tried the H1000 also and did not like it either. The IMR 7828 did give me .25" groups in both my Mark V and my Remmy CDL in 257 WBM. Also did not like the Varget even for the 257 and/or a couple of other calibers I've tried.
  10. punxsutawn

    30-06

    I don't know if you get to the Phoenix area often, but Randall's at 51st ave and Olive has H4350...at least he did this past weekend.
  11. punxsutawn

    A bunch of pictures.

    Great Pics! I really needed to see some cool country right about now! How about sending down some of the cool weather for us??! lolol
  12. punxsutawn

    Camo job on my AR-15

    That looks really great! I think your right....I'm still working on getting enough nerve to do my Armalites! You helped me get at least two steps closer!! BTW....do you think it will work with stainless steel?
  13. punxsutawn

    30-06

    Try this site. www.reloadersnest.com They're a great bunch of guys who are very helpful. They also list by caliber many different bullet/powder combinations. I currently have loaded the Barnes TTSX in 168 grain. They're shooting about .75" @ 100 yards out of an old Remington 760 pump action rifle. I don't recall the powder used....I'll have to look when I get home. I looked it up and my data is 54.5 grains of Winchester 760 powder. I used Federal large rifle primers. I'm getting a little over 2900fps out of it. As with all data, you should consider loading down at least 10% and watch for pressure signs, etc..... Hope that helps!
  14. punxsutawn

    What's your thoughts on this?

    I ran into the same issue a couple of years ago and got the same response. They were quite smug about the whole thing and told me I should have read the regs better. Sure enough, it is in the regs. For what we pay in fees, they would be a little more accommodating!! They didn't even suggest at that time that I could have bought a duplicate license! Now I'm twice as mad!!! I now ALWAYS buy a license and then apply for the permits. Not that I got drawn this year, but at least I can go fishing and/or varmint hunting....
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