Azshooter

I have two pounds matching lot numbers of H1000 $55 each I have two pounds matching lot numbers of Varget $55 each Tucson area only

H1000 sold. Varget still available location Tucson

BigbugPete.....it might end up being yours as first poster has not answered my PM to call me. Will wait today and see what happens if nothing you get the lbs

The H1000 lbs are yours. PM sent

Nightforce benchrest 12-42 x 56 scope with NP-2DD illuminated reticle. Comes with sunshade and screw on lens covers no box. 1/8 MOA capped target turrets Tucson area not interested in shipping. These scopes are selling for $ 1000 or more used. Will take $900. Send a pm

Was unable to hunt 7W till Sunday afternoon Dec 5. High winds and super full moon kept sighting cows and bulls to a minimum. Saw 7 bulls and 14 cows in 4 1/2 days of hunting. That included lots of glassing. Had never hunted this unit before. Two friends that live nearby took me out a few times then I was on my own as they worked. Got a 6 x 6 on last day.

This handy lightweight rifle weighs 6 lb 6 oz with scope. As a 44 magnum it can be loaded with light loads using 180 gr bullets or loaded up hot with 300 gr bullets capable of killing an elk or bear within reasonable distances. Might make a great first rifle for a youth or anyone who might be recoil sensitive. Features: Walnut stock, no longer offered by Ruger Action is bedded with barrel floated trigger breaks at 2 3/4 lbs decelerator pad front sight was machined off and rear dovetail filled in bead blasted and blued two removeable rotary magazines that hold 4 each established loads: 210 Sierra HP @ 1950 fps 240 Hornady XTP @ 1800 fps one inch accuracy with either load at 100 yds Comes with 75 load rounds of 240 XTP in Starline brass $950 call for text pics or to ask questions 520-982-1341

Price drop. $850. call for text pics 520-982-1341

Amanda, I have the VX III 4.5-14 X 40 that doesn't have the adjustable front objective. It was purchased to save weight ( as well as money) over the long range version. 13.2 oz vs 15.4 oz. The intent was to have a bit more magnification over what I feel is the most useful VX III they build, the 3.5-10 x 40. Unfortunately the scope does have a flaw. The focus is not perfect at all distances when it is set on 14X. It isn't that bad but it is noticeable. I ended up moving the rear objective to get crystal clear viewing at 100 yds on 14X and probably won't use it on max setting while hunting. I picked that arangement to work up loads. Most hunting situations you don't need much more than 10X anyway. It is clear up to about 12X. If I had to do it over I would more than likely get another 3.5-10 x 40 VX III. All the fixed objectives I have looked through that were 10X or less never showed the focus problem as the 4.5-14 x 40 did. It is just one of those compromises in design. As for getting a 50 mm front objective it is your choice. The drawback is that it requires higher rings to clear the barrel AND will have you putting you face higher on the stock to look through it. Unless the stock is designed with a higher cheek piece could be an unnatural position. If you go to Sportsman's warehouse you can use their scope holding stock and see how high you have to place your face on the stock. If you are of medium stature or smaller it will not help your shooting one bit. As for using any type of stadia, like the B and C setup.....first of all the distances between them changes with magnification! Second they will NEVER exactly match your trajectory. A good ballistics program is needed to get a clue on what your load is going to do. When the elevation or the environmental conditions change so does your trajectory. The stadia can be a good reference point. You will have to shoot it at a variety of distances to see where the bullets really impact. The better way to set up a scope for stadia would be to send it out to Premier Reticle AFTER you know your trajectory and let them install stadia to match. This will work better BUT what if things change with your pet load and you have to make another load? Then you are back to figuring out where the bullet will impact with each stadia. AND don't forget it will change with different magnification settings. --Ross

The other guys are correct it is not that big a deal to mount a scope. The crosshair alignment can get you frustrated. Set it up at home and finalize the exact alignment of the crosshairs at the range. To really do the scope mounting correctly the rings should be aligned AND lapped. I don't think there are many out there that do the lapping including gunshops. Perhaps you have noticed that a scope doesn't fit into the bases very well and resists being rotated or when you go to remove it from the base pcs it sticks? Or have you wondered how the marks got on your scope when you switched one out? These are signs that the rings were not a perfect fit. I was a skeptic until I took the time to make a lapping tool and do it. (you can buy one here: http://www.sinclairintl.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi, scroll down to see the scope lapping tool.) EVERY ring set I have lapped showed high spots that got polished down. To leave high spots in the rings could mark the scope and cause binding issues. To make one all you need is a 1" piece of smooth steel rod and some lapping compound. I put a handle on mine but you could get away without one. Have the rings loose enough to put the rod in place. Put some compound on the rod and wiggle the rod in a back and forth circular motion. Then after a while you can begin to go forward and aft. After it seems to be easier tighten the rings a bit and repeat. Take the rod out and remove the rings but don't mix them up or rotate either ring cap 180 degrees. Degrease and then install the scope. Figured as long as we are talking about installing scopes......

Thanks for welcoming me everyone. Also thanks for saying that you hope I get drawn. Remember the days when you could buy a second left over wt tag? The WSMs are great but they don't lend themselves to rebarreing your old rifle. They are chubby and have the potential to not feed properly. Buying an existing WSM and then rebarreling is certainly the way to go. Another thing is not all gunsmiths have those reamers. I try to use the older and more popular rounds. I have compared the light super fast bullet vs the heavier retained momentum bullet for quite a while. If you crunch the numbers on ballistic programs, usually the heavier bullets are better at long range with less wind drift, but not much. The flatness of the trajectory is more important to me so choose to use the lighter bullets going mach 3.5 The smaller bullets open up better at the longer distances too. There are those moments that just don't allow you to think and range the distances. It is nice to have a lpoint blank range waaaay out there. If a person were to go with heavier bullets a leupold that had several stadia added by premier reticles would be a must. (They only do Leupolds.) If I were to do it I would have stadia added in 3 MOA increments with the scope on Max magnification. Haven't done that yet but do use the point of the "plex" as my second hold over aiming point. The plex point of 3-9 vari X IIs are exactly 3 MOA when the scope is on 9x. Another scope a bushnell elite 4200 2.5-10 adds 4 MOA when on 10 power. Just incase some readers don't know: The MOA size will vary with the magnification setting. As many of you probably know Burris has a ballistic plex system. I have a 4-16 signature. It isn't bad system but you must have it on the correct magnification. I tried it one of my 7 mags and was excited about it. Then I discovered the eye relief was very short and if it was taken to the field a kaibab eye would certainly result. It is on a tricked out Ruger 10-22 and the system is perfect for shooting ground squirrels in Mt at long distances. All hash marks, both vertical and horizontal, are used as holdovers. No charts or drop or windage are necessary because you can see the bullets hit when you miss and can adjust. ----Ross

The question of what caliber to use is up to the individual. Have been hunting coues for over 20 yrs. During that time I have evolved through several rifles and calibers. I often ponder the perfect long range coues rifle. For me it has boiled down to having at least two rlfles depending on the situation. A fairly light but powerful rifle would be my recommendation for a one rifle hunter. My fav is a short action Ruger M77 chambered in 284 win. It weighs 7 3/4 lbs with the 3-9 leupold. Uses 140 ballistic tips at 3100. It is chosen if there is a great deal of hiking involved. The other while not much heavier (9 lbs) is usually used for glassing, ranging and shooting from one location. It is a 7 mag which shoots moly coated 120 ballistic tips going 3575. It always is carried with the longests S series Harris Bi-pod attached. It sports a 2.5-10 scope. As a sidenote many one shot kills have been accomplished at distances in the 350-450 yd range using a scope with max magnification of 9 or 10. Tried some higher power scopes with adj obj lens and things can get too complicated especially with time constraints. Naturally the search continues. This year a 6.5-284 and a 270 weatherby are being built. If they prove to be accurate enough they may be used. The 6.5 would be the hiking rifle and the 270 the glassing. May even consider using a 6.5-20 vari XIII on the 270W. To summarize, I believe the 6mms to be a bit too light for most instances. On the other end the 30s and up are a bit too much in the recoil department for deer. It would seem, so far, that the 7 mms get the nod. While the 7 STW is a good one the 7 mag may be the most useful rifle chambering for this type of hunting. It is a good mix of power vs recoil vs weight. Just discovered this site thanks to Diamondback. Very useful imformation.