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Everything posted by creed_az_88
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That's impressive as heck. I would be proud too!
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So yesterday on my way home from work my truck started to sputter a little bit. I drive a 2004 powerstroke 6.0(don't judge me.) 190,000 miles. It acted like the fuel was cutting out at first. The sputtering got worse and eventually the truck lost all power although it stayed running. I coasted until I came to a stop but kept the truck running. The truck would do no more than idle even if I floored it. I got out of the truck and noticed that white smoke was coming out of the exhaust. First thought was blown head gasket. I checked the oil and it was normal. Coolant was normal. Then the motor started to rattle so I turned the truck off right away. I towed it home and tried to start it this morning and it wouldn't start. The rubber boot on the pipe from the turbo to the cooler is torn. There Is also some oil around the turbo clamps. Is a bad turbo the cause of this or is it something else? I noticed that I used a ton of fuel going to work the last few days. I also noticed that the turbo did sound slightly different than usual a few days ago but it didn't sound bad. I'm gonna look at the turbo tonight but should I look at anything else? If it is bad Is it something I can repair on my own? I'm not a mechanic but I can figure minor things out. I need recommendations please! Thanks, Creed
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I haven't cleaned the egr and I got fuel at the only gas station In sunsites where I always get fuel. I haven't had time to really do anything other than replace the cac boot. Unfortunately I didn't get the codes before I unhooked the batteries but I did start the truck again afterwards and let it run of a bit, although It ran like crap. The check engine light has yet to come on. I leave tomorrow for an elk hunt so the ol ford is gonna have to sit out of commission for a week or two before I can tend to it. A dirty egr valve is a possibility and It probably needs cleaned anyways. I'm just not sure a dirty egr would cause te electrical issues I seem to be having. I think the two issues are related somehow and I very well could be wrong. Phil, I'll look Into joe long thanks. Once again, thanks for all the comments and I'll let everybody know how this whole thing turns out.
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So I ordered a boot from rifraf diesel and installed it. I also disconnected the batteries and reconnected them just in case the truck was still in limp mode( not sure it would help but I did it anyways.) I tried starting the truck and the batteries were dead. Weird I thought considering I just put a new alternator on last week and had the batteries tested. I jumped the truck and got it to start but it took forever to jump and when I started the truck it really took a lot for it to start. In the process the gauges all pegged out. The speedometer went to 120+ or whatever it goes to the fuel gauge showed full, the oil level gauge went to full, etc. the truck ran like crap. I did get it to get above idle when pushing the fuel pedal but not by much. The motor rattled a bit but nothing like two days ago when I first broke down. I'm really wondering if this is an electrical issue. My truck batteries started to be dead when I tried to start the truck last week so put a new alternator in last week and it seemed to fix the problem. I did however feel the alternator after I put it in while it was running and it was running very hot. After the truck started all the gauges went back to normal but the fuel gauge which went back to 1/4 of a tank. I filled the tank about 30 miles prior so It should still pretty much be full. It could be wrong or it could actually be that low. I'm at work now so I can't check the actual level but if it is that low could this be bad ejectors or a bad hpop? If I decide to have a mechanic look at it, do you have any recommendations on somebody who's honest and reasonable? Preferably in Tucson or cochise county somewhere? I appreciate all comments so far. Creed
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So I took the turbo to cooler boot off and inspected it. It's definitely wiped out. I need to replace it and none of the local parts stores carry it so the question is, who to order it from. I also found this bolt missing from the turbo. It surprisingly just layed there where it fell out and never rattled onto the ground. It can't be good but Im not sure if it affected performance at all. All the other bolts were snug. I pulled the boot on the other end of the pipe going into the cooler off and the other boot looks good although the bottom side of it obviously has oil leak from the clamps. So I'm gonna replace the torn boot and replace the missing bolt but what else should I look at? Could that torn boot really stop the truck from moving? Thanks for all the help.
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I've had some tough pack outs but I don't think any compare to that. What a dream hunt! Sucks you had to do it alone but doing things like that alone kind of revives your soul. Great job on the write up Brent and congratulations on a well earned trophy.
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When you buy a new license I believe that you can choose a start date with that license. So if you purchase next years license today, then you should be able to choose to make that license active beginning January 1st or whenever you'd like next year. I could be wrong but that's the way I understood it.
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Good luck Brent. You'll be ready. Can't wait to hear how it goes
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My 14 year old daughter gets her FIRST archery buck!
creed_az_88 replied to huntlines's topic in Bowhunting for Coues Deer
That's awesome. She just conquered one of the toughest things to do in life. Congrats to all of you guys. -
Sherman if that offer was for me, then thank you very much. I have a few coworkers from benson that have agreed to pick it up for me if muledeerarea33 is willing. I'll send a pm.
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Can you meet somebody in benson?
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I love my blue heeler. Take her with me everytime I'm not archery hunting. Stays by my side te entire time and lays down next to me everytime I glass. She loved chasing cows at first but I broke her of that habit real quick. Every bad habit she's ever had she's stopped the minute I yelled at her. She's also the only one of three dogs that I've had that survived my neighbors three on one pitbull attacks. She's tough as nails. Water would trickle out of her neck when she drank. No vet, just at home doctoring from me. Can't even tell it ever happened now. Best breed of dog in my opinion for a country person. I've read that they're not so great when they're stuck in a small yard all day. I've seen a fair share of heelers that were biters so raise it around a lot of different people and kids if you don't want any issues. Mine won't do anything to anybody but try to get petted.
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Awesome bear. Congrats. Is that an ear tag? Game and fish give you any info on the bear if it is an ear tag ?
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I don't think it would change much if any. It Will actually affect your foc less that way. You miss out on a few of the benefits of arrow wraps that way but it shouldn't hurt anything.
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WTT/WTS MEC 12 gauge shotgun reloader and shell resizer
creed_az_88 replied to creed_az_88's topic in Classified Ads
Pm sent dcs. You're next in line coues7 if dcs decides he doesn't want it. I'm not sure if it will load steel shot or not I'll look in the morning. -creed -
WTT/WTS MEC 12 gauge shotgun reloader and shell resizer
creed_az_88 posted a topic in Classified Ads
I've decided that I don't shoot the 12 gauge enough to keep these. They're both unused and in great condition. The reloader is a MEC 650 progressive reloader and the shell resizer is a MEC super sizer. The reloader sells for $340 at midway and the resizer sells for $107 at midway. The resizer is necessary to use this reloader. I would prefer to trade these two together for $250 worth of reloading supplies (bullets and powder- pm me for specifics). I am open to partial trades and will consider trading for hunting items that I may need. If I sell this I'd like to get $275 although I prefer to trade. -creed -
WTT/WTS MEC 12 gauge shotgun reloader and shell resizer
creed_az_88 replied to creed_az_88's topic in Classified Ads
Willing to trade for a rifle scope. -
Just wanted to get a list of what has and hasn't worked on elk. Its no secret that many people believe that mechanicals are a bad idea when elk hunting but I feel that they have their place so if you feel the need to badmouth mechanicals please save it for another thread. Let's hear what's worked and what hasn't worked for you. I'll start with my experiences. I have personally seen two bulls lost with well placed shots(video proof) with the original two blade rages. Both had poor penetration. The fault in my opinion was the equipment used to push the broad and not so much the broad head so it wasn't exactly a broad head failure. Light arrows, short draw length and an older, slow bow. The only other bull I saw shot with a mechanical was a complete success and it was shot with a rage hypodermic. Broad head performed flawlessly.
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WTT/WTS MEC 12 gauge shotgun reloader and shell resizer
creed_az_88 replied to creed_az_88's topic in Classified Ads
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WTT/WTS MEC 12 gauge shotgun reloader and shell resizer
creed_az_88 replied to creed_az_88's topic in Classified Ads
I'll be heading to Tucson Tuesday or Wednesday if anybody wants to see it. -
I'm pretty inexperienced in the bear department but it looks like a coloring issue rather than a rubbed coat to me also. Awesome az bear either way.
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Looks like an amazing trip brent. That is an awesome Sitka buck. Dream vacation for sure.
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Coues deer hunts ain't supposed to be easy! Tough unit for a kid but big deer get harvested in this unit every year. Be open minded you'll be alright. I cut my teeth on coues deer in this unit as did many kids that have started with me. Perfect opportunity to teach a kid perseverance and patience.
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I thought that I was the only one in elfrida with access to the Internet. Thanks for all the replies guys I appreciate the feedback. In gonna start with 120 grain partitions because they shot the best for me while fire forming. My wife actually killed her first deer with the rifle with a regular Roberts load. Anybody got any load recommendations? I was thinking of starting with imr 4350 or reloader 19 or maybe some 4895 with 100 grain bullet.
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I'm looking for reloading dies for my ackley improved .257. Before i make my purchase I want to be sure that I'm buying the right dies to make consistently accurate rounds. Would a 2 die set with a full length sizing die and a bullet seating die be appropriate or would I need a neck sizer also? I'm new to the reloading game and I plan to learn how to reload from someone with experience but I want to make sure I buy the right dies for the job before I begin. Does anybody use the lee pacesetter dies? I've for the most part read that they are quality dies but I've read a few negative comments also. They're half the price of the rcbs so if possible id like to start with the lees. I've already fireformed a bunch of brass and I've got everything else but the dies to get started. Any feedback would be appreciated. Any other tips for reloading for the ackley improved round would also be appreciated. -creed