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Everything posted by elpepe25
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want a killer discount on big name brands???
elpepe25 replied to SwarovskiCoues's topic in The Campfire
This is how we lost broform. Loose lips sink ships -
Slick doesn’t make a 3 blade, I do not know what you tested but it wasn’t a slick. Yes, large mechanicals do have a larger cutting diameter, but when talking total cutting area fixed vs mech is usually a close call. Mech pros: Great flight, large cutting diameters. Mech cons: Long unsupported blades (weaker), Steep blade angles (inefficient), Higher energy requirements, May open in flight (regardless of design, it may happen) Fixed pros: Usually stronger, reduced blade angles, high overall cutting surfaces, conservative diameters allow deep penetration. Fixed cons: flight issues, smallish cutting diameters. Feel free to add some if I missed some either way. The argument is: almost guaranteed penetration but small diameter vs. massive flapping holes at the cost of reliable penetration. There is no wrong answer, just preference in performance and differing values. A sharpened pine bough in the right spot will work, as will a hatchet. I just was attempting to explain that cutting diameter is not the "end all".
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Fixed blade broadhead vs. mechanical
elpepe25 replied to AZHUNTER05's topic in Bows, arrows, broadheads
The above is true but it shows just one side of the coin. Bigger cutting diameter can cause more tissue damage. However they do have a downside. Overall strength. High energy requirements. Deploying mechanisms that can fail. Steep blade angles. Often with mechanicals the cutting diameter is larger, but they may not have more blade cutting surface. One would have a hard time arguing 20,000 years of fixed blade results. Overall, I feel we spend too much time internet coaching, worrying about gear that is already sufficient, arguing between chevy vs ford, Fixed vs mechanical, UofA vs ASU, etc. All good time that could've been put to use shooting. -
Last I heard Brownells and Creedmor were taking back-orders. Good luck
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* Your Mileage May Vary
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Thunderheads are arguably the most proven head ever. And they will fly good at any distance provided they are given good tuning and good shooting form. Buy what you like. If it gives you confidence, go for it. Any quality head/arrow combo will get it done. Every hunting piece of gear is a compromise. Fixed heads are usually more rugged and inherently more dependable, but can be harder to tune and have more conservative cutting diameters. Mechanicals tend to be easier to tune and have larger cutting diameters, but tend to be less reliable and strong. Something to think about, cutting diameter of a 2 blade mechanicals tends to be larger than that of most 3 or 4 blade fixed heads, however, they will have less total blade surface than the fixed heads. More blade surface, at reduced blade angles means less resistance and overall sharper blades throughout the duration of the job (think of shoving an axe into meat vs. a boning knife). Therefore: Larger cutting diameter does not always mean more damage. The 2 blade mechanicals have the blades 180 degrees from each other, whereas 3 blade fixed are 120 degrees, and 4 blade are 90 degrees accordingly. Which is more likely to clip vessels and organs? Which hole is less likely to close: 3-4 blade star hole or 2 blade sliver hole? If the arrow doesn't pass through, which heads are likely to close up instead of causing more damage? If you have the energy, and can reliably push big mechanicals through game, and they are not a weak design, you will have big holes, short- prolific blood trails, and happy hunting. Take a look at your finished ideal setup, determine what is important to you. Is penetration more important than large holes? Is wind drift important to you? How far do you intend to shoot and do you have the needed energy to push your chosen broadhead through your intended game at these distances? What shot angles are you willing to take? After you find out what you value, it will shorten your broadhead list considerably. Good luck and good shooting.
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jag critical habitat established. any predictions?
elpepe25 replied to biglakejake's topic in The Campfire
This has happened before. For example: In the pacific north west, folks wanted to protect old growth forest ecosystem from logging or other disturbance. So they found a cuddly little animal that inhabited old growth forest, the spotted owl. While it did not affect many forest related activities, it did drastically change the way the forest was managed as far as logging, thinning, fire regimes etc. -
jag critical habitat established. any predictions?
elpepe25 replied to biglakejake's topic in The Campfire
I believe that this will severely impact the ability of wildlife and public land management agencies to manage habitat for the intended multiple use objectives. -
jag critical habitat established. any predictions?
elpepe25 replied to biglakejake's topic in The Campfire
Jaguars do need protection... ...from the Game and Fish. -
I'd love to be running a 15" & 10" Fuse blades, just don't feel like taking out a 2nd mortgage on my house.
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I would go as long and as heavy as reasonable to carry/pack. I use a stab to hold steadier, and to increase the moment of inertia (moi) of the bow. A high moi reduces the ability of the bow to twist left, right, up or down. This helps reduce errors from grip torque, string torque, and grip pressure. They make the bow more forgiving. If you play golf, stabilizers can be compared to heel-toe weighting on a putter, perimeter weighting on an iron, used to reduce error on miss hits. And because you are adding weight to the bow, the little bobbles in your sight picture smooth out, like a bull barreled rifle. Unfortunately, they keep making bows lighter. I work hard to make these "new" "great " bows hold steady, usually by making them heavy.
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12" B Stinger front with 12 oz and 8" B stinger rear/side with 14oz A good Starting point is: Length of front bar x Weight on front bar, divided by lenght of rear bar. Here is a great article on stabilization: http://www.archerylearningcenter.archerylive.com/images/stories/articles/stabilizers-archery-02-10.pdf
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The burden of proof is on the state...
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It started innocent enough, but has been leeched onto.
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urban dictionary has great examples of brodom. http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=bro
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What Have You Killed With A 10mm?
elpepe25 replied to GlockMan's topic in Handgun Hunting for Coues Deer
Never killed anything w/ one, but I have shot them. They are a fire breathing dragon at the end of your arms, and therefore: awesome. -
frat bro, emo bro, dirt bike bro, 4x4 bro, and last but not least: MMA bro. In each group the people themselves can be tolerable alone (sometimes durn good folks), but when they "herd" up with other bros, they act like herd animals indeed. It always turns into a pissing match between ford-chevy-dodge, mathews-hoyt-pse, ASU-UA, "stop looking at my girlfriend bro." etc. And to emphasize this more: there is the tell tale posturing, idle threats, and "Hold me backs" If you know what I'm referring to you probably read the above quotes in the same mouth-breathing neanderthal voice that is common today. There you go, a "Bro"
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No worries, good luck and good shooting.
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I agree these are inanimate object that by themselves are not dbagish, however, they tend to attract dbags. I am seeing trends that certain folks that are dbags tend to like the same things, same clothes, same events, etc. Maybe this stereotyping is wrong, but in my facet of the world they ring true more often than not. If it walks like a bro, talks like a bro, and looks like a bro.....odds are...? p.s. kids that don't eat their pizza crust that make it to adulthood and still don't eat the crust tends to be another indicator. Must be some anti-dbag nutrients in pizza crust.
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the whole group moves when you adjust it, you just use the bottom pin as your floater. so for example you set up your 3 pins for 20-30-40. your tape will start at at 40, this is your "home setting". so if you need to shoot farther you use as a single pin "mover" from there using only your bottom pin (ignoring the rest as they are now irrelevant). this allows you to have single yard accuracy and dial in for distance, while keeping you ready for the bull that charges in and catches you with your pants down. i personally use a 5 pin with the same scheme. 20-30-40-50-60, then utilizing the bottom pin and a sight tape i can shoot as far as needed with 1 yard accuracy.
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"stop trying to offend me bro"
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Spot hogg tommy or boss. or cbe tek series. I agree w/ the above use a 3 pin housing. use the top 2 pins for your 20-30 or 30-40, then start your tape and use the bottom pin for farther distances.
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Learning to count by using bighorn sheep mortality. Referring to anybody as "bro". Here's some qualifiers as well: flat brimmed ball caps, monster energy drinks, metal mulisha paraphernalia, "got ----" stickers. I'm sure i'll come up with more later.
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try local shoots, they usually silent auction their old targets. with some 3d target seal foam and some spray paint, deals can be had.
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If I run a call, its a diaphragm. No 2 people run them the same. If and when I do run a call it's very sparingly. The last 2 bulls I shot I did not call to. I let them make noise to locate them and snuck in quietly. Primos Hootchie Mama is the single worst thing to happen to elk hunting.