elpepe25

The main wolf re-introduction driving agency is the usfws. http://www.fws.gov/SOUTHWEST/es/mexicanwolf/

An interesting side note, I get better patterns out of my 20 ga with Federal Heavy weight 7's than I do with any lead 6's out of my 12 gauge at 40 yards. I know I am comparing lead 6's to HW 7's but my 20 ga is a more reliable killer with hw 7's than my 12 ga with lead 6's, and I get a lighter, easier carrying, lighter recoiling, more effective turkey gun.

Yes, with work and patterning. Here is my Pavo Pounder 20 ga. recipe 870 youth-21" barrel-SSX choke-Fed. HW 7's Got 167 & 176 in the 10" @ 40 yards. Best of all, I get to put the 20 back in action, gonna love packing the 20 around.

Christmasy Feelings? At least I know when Christmas is every year

Stan/copper john had a similar release in the late 90's early 2000's that was popular. Carter also makes thumb, index trigger alternatives like ring or pinky activation.

Yes, yes it does.

adapt.bmp I use a digi mount like ths one, can run any camera through my scope

I've done it, it's not hard. If I could recommend something it would be to be patient, break it up over a couple of nights, and use the smallest tip on your soldering iron.

Yeah, a tight bundle of serving thread instead of a brass nockset works wonders for creating a little down force to aid in keeping the arrow on the rest consistently and serves as a locator should you have to have to replace your loop.

Cool, no worries. If you get to that point, pm me.

I wouldn't think that loop length would alter your ability to get a deep hook on the release. I would look to shorten the strap that attaches the head to the wrist strap release. I have had long loops and shot loops, I use it as a tool to fine tune my anchor position consistently from one bow to another. Multiple bows with "27.5" draw length and not one of them hits it perfect. So i keep my anchor the same and alter loop length. The benefits of a loop greatly outnumber the fps you'll gain from 3/4" Hope this helps.

Do you wanna sell the rest? No worries if you don't wanna break it up.

Definitely a "Bro"

Wac'ems, slick tricks are good heads.

You probably need a stiffer spine, but other than that any tuned moderate setup will work.

You have the right of way..............unless you're in the way

i don't get it. If you apply by paper how do you know yea or nay right then and there? Maybe i misunderstood your point but you still have to wait to find out like anyone else. Me neither, they cash all checks upfront, then refund if not drawn.

The best you can afford. the base model is great, everything up from that is cushy features.

the bow master is good for the occasional odd job or back country camps. good piece of kit. the last chance press is the real deal when it comes to serious bow work. you can find home brew plans on archery talk.

All with a 125 grain Wac'em Exit: COMBINED Distance traveled after hit less than 200 yards. I've had great luck with them. They are sharp and consistent.

http://www.camofire.com

Also something to think about: If your bow has nock travel issues, a fixed rest like a biscuit tends to be more forgiving.

Fixed rests still dominate all target archery venues, so the accuracy argument is null. However, if your form is inconsistent, a drop away will tend to be more forgiving. For example: bow torque has less effect on a arrow with a drop-away due to less contact and therefore less steerage. This only works well if you time the rest to fall in the first 2-4 inches of arrow travel. whisker biscuits are dang near bomb proof, with no moving parts. Drop aways have moving parts, actuator cables that love catching brush and migrating changing rest timing, not to mention plastic launchers/cradles. There is always a strong argument for K.I.S.S. I use a drop away because I shoot 4 fletch. So I compromised and went with a full containment fall away with all metal parts. Good luck, and good shooting.

I've had great flight from thunderheads, wac'ems, montecs, slick tricks and slick trick mags at distance.