MattMan

Agreed. If they don't stop it's North bound run at the 25 road, Katie bar the door... 30 mph winds and 6% humidity ain't exactly ideal conditions to stop it anywhere.

Fourth bull from the bottom... I likely have the matched set of his sheds from the year prior to this pic.... PM me the unit of the pic if you don't mind?

Kinda odd that two young boys would take off for a day of fishing in Bear Wallow, since it's been closed to fishing for some time...

Got pics? Year Made? Blank Warranty Card?

Wait till you kill a big rutty bull...

Bingo. Other hunter to my wife - "What does he score?" My wife - "Who cares? I found him and shot him on my own. And I haven't been this excited in a LONG time." I respect a DIY guy that earned and shot a 2 point fair and square on his own, a heck of a lot more than a guy who was led by the hand to a 115 buck.

Sorry to say it, but unless it's written into a contract, I'd say the outfitter has NO legal right to post pics of a hunter's animal anywhere without permission. That said, I'd write it into EVERY contract if I were an outfitter concerned with developing my reputation... and if I were hunting with outfitters and concerned with developing my reputation as "super hunter", I'd make sure the guide had NO rights to the photos without express written permission and royalties for every one published. I also get a big chuckle out of people who represent animals as their own, sometimes even alluding to how hard they work to kill their animals, when they were in reality led by the hand to the animal in the picture. Often times you'd be surprised at the $$ some of these guys are willing to pay. I ain't calling anybody out, but it happens a lot more than you'd think, and not just with elk... On the flip side, I know of several cases where an outfitter has pictures of animals in his album that he had NOTHING to do with harvesting. Like the guy wasn't even in the same county, much less involved in the kill. One of these I know very well, cause I've never hired a guide for squat, and there is a picture of a buck that is hanging on MY wall on an outfitter's site. Couldn't care less, and frankly get a good chuckle out of that one too, every time he posts on a forum or his name comes up. So I guess it goes both ways... I don't guide, and won't hire a guide, unless required by law, so can't really care any less either way. But if somebody asks me straight up about guides or hunters I specifically know about, I sure share it.

Can't wait. Bout 10 years overdue in my opinion.

+1 The bonus point system was developed to eliminate the wait period. Guys were getting drawn every 2 years and others never could. A wait period is strictly punitive in nature, and does NOTHING to improve your odds if you're not one of the ones drawn... at least under the BP system you can build to max points and get a tag. Guess what? EVERYONE wants trophy tags. That's why they are hard to draw. Deal with it or put in for less desirable tags and hunt more often. It's not rocket science.

The State Land Department needs to revise the leases as they come up for renewal on ranches that have grazing or other leases on checker-board land, to require the lessee to allow unrestricted public access for hunting purposes on all leased land, during all open hunting seasons. It's public land, every other section, and it being treated as private... these ranches get to thinking that leased trust land belongs to them when all they have is a flippin lease for grazing. It's wrong. The State Land Department does NOT answer to Game and Fish, and the Commission cannot change it. Only your lawmakers can change it... the only way they will is with a huge push back from their constituents. Write your lawmakers people.

THAT particular call works wonders with black bears too...

A great way to improve quality and quantity of game out there is to get off the couch and go whack some predators in the "off-season"....

Used an '06, 300WM, 264WM, and a smokepole... The lowly 260 Remington has smacked more elk than all the rest combined. Shoot 'em where they live and they will die. Shoot them anywhere else and you're gonna lose 'em.

Max points depend on the hunt for any species... Max points for some sheep and tatonka hunts are well into the 30s. Given there's likely not a 'bad' sheep tag in the lot, I gotta wonder what difference it makes? All the info you need is out there for the taking... And a guy can buy a tatonka tag for not much more coin than some wait 30 years to draw.

If it weren't for the 20% pass, some would NEVER draw a goat tag... at least with that 20% pass, a guy knows he'll get drawn once every 20 years or so for sure... which likely means one or two goat tags in a lifetime. Arizona has by far the best draw system of the western states... you can draw ANY tag with NO points, but still get rewarded for building points in that when you finally get to max points you can get a tag in the 20% pass. Read and understand the system, it's not that complicated. You'll only have to worry about the scenario that started this thread a few times in your life, as it only applies if you have MAX bonus points for the hunt you apply for first choice. You're not going to have max points for very many years in a row. That's the point of the system. If you have MAX points for the hunts you're applying for, don't put a hunt first or second choice that you don't want to burn your points for. It's that simple...

I just gave him a heads up that it's illegal for a dog to aid in the pursuit of deer. Interpretation of whether or not your dog is aiding in pursuit, if you took him into the field with you during an open deer hunt, would be subject to the interpretation of the unit manager... and the results obtained may vary depending on the unit manager involved. You pays your money and you makes your choice... I'd hate to lose a hog buck like he has in this thread because of the interpretation of a unit manager, so choose to leave Fido in the truck, at camp, or home during hunts in which dogs are not allowed.

Nice shootin', tex.

Here's a good primer on the 260. The 6.5-284 and 264WM are both just more of a good thing... I'd never build a 6.5-284, since the WM trumps it soundly in a long action. Recoil of the 6.5s is nil. With bullets in the 120-140 grain range, bearing BCs well over .500, the ability to launch them at reasonable velocity, and a case capacity conducive to PRACTICE, the real key to responsible and ethical long range shooting, it makes a lot of sense. The need for uber-high muzzle velocity is gone with a good LRF. A 260 launching the 140 AMAX will reliably and ethically get you to 650, with no problems at all. The Cse for a 260 Remington For a guy starting from scratch, the 7mm 162 AMAX warrants the jack needed to build a rifle around... for any real jump in performance, you have to step up to a big 338 case... then you're into a 15lb+ braked beast.

.308 is about the LAST bullet diameter I'd select for shooting long range. First rule to remember is velocity is fleeting and BC is forever. Think .264, .284, and then .338 A 10+ lb braked high displacement 338 of any flavor is an impressive tool at VERY long distances if built with the correct twist and fed fodder of high BC.

You're likely already in that range with Remington factory fodder. What dies are you using and have they loaded accurate ammo for another gun? FL sizing just enough to headspace on the shoulder instead of the belt, or bumping them all the way back every time?

And if any of the previous owners liked shooting much... just sayin'. I'd give it a whirl with some good components and see what it'll do. If you can ring a 6" gong or break block ice from the small end consistently at your intended range, you're good to go.

If moly ruined your barrel, it was ruined already...

I use Federal Gold Medal primers almost exclusively... and buy a BUNCH from the same lot# at one time... have had nothing less than stellar results with them. GM 215s have been pretty scarce for a while, but they seem to be coming back online and availability is improving. Had good luck with CCI them too.... never used a Rem primer other than 209s in a shotgun or muzzleloader. I'd not swap primers without backing off and starting development over. Winchester 264 brass is produced in small lots and is VERY consistent. I've never tried R-P brass in a 264. I moly coat my own bullets in case tumbler. Bare bullets are copper colored. Moly bullets, silver/gray, and some winchester bullets are black (lubalox methinks). Moly requires a grain or two more powder to produce like velocity, cause it's slick. It also may allow slightly higher velocity, again, cause it's slick. Not enough extra FPS to be worth it. Only reason to use it is it allows a guy to shoot different bullets to the same POI, instead of cleaning and re-sighting. So a guy can shoot AMAX for routine practice, and accubonds for game, for instance, without having to re-verify zero when swapping back and forth. Just verify dope for the accubond separately and go hunt. I use moly in everything. The new powders really do change the game, as they're slow enough to make the 264 come alive, especially in that 26" tube... if you can run Sweet's and it comes out clean, it's clean. Witches brew is great if you can find some. Two passes and clean, no ammonia. Smells like pine-sol.

The king of 6.5s... Fed 215 Primers, WW Brass is pretty consistent, and is a seasonal item. Accurate MagPro for 120s, RamShot Magnum for 140s... being ball powder, both meter like WATER. Find that issue of Handloader and work up from there. I'm able to very accurately knock on 3100 with 140s coated in moly and have tight primer pockets. Bergers give a little more than reliable expansion at 264 velocity inside 300 or so. GREAT in a 260, but in the 264 I'd stick to Accubonds or similar. If you want a pretty frangible bullet, the 123/140 AMAX trump Berger IMHO. As for the accuracy of your rifle, give it one heck of a cleaning with some witch's brew or jb bore paste till you're to bare metal, and take a look at the throat and how far you have to chase to find lands. Bore/throat might be toast if some guy was practicing like he should to hit at 500... if you've got a keeper, load it up and practice, practice, practice. You're gonna get bored waiting for that 264 tube to cool down, so I'd take more than one to practice with at a time. Might want to try shooting some steel at 300 or so, and see what it does. 1 moa is roughly a 5" circle @500, btw.

Not much of a story. Popped a cow right behind the ear at near point blank range... sure didn't waste any meat. I'm a handgun fan too, and wish something other than rodents could get some HAM love in AZ.