loboscout

Electric combo safe, with keys. Holds 27 to 30 rifles. Has 4 shelves as well. Missing a couple handles from a move. Its heavy. I might consider deliver to your driveway, but that's it. East Valley. $425 obo

Sold Pending Funds and pickup

East Valley, pics are up. East Valley Pics up.

BUMP

I have a Bergara HMR short action stock with bottom metal and action screws. Drop in your Remington 700 style barreled action and go. This is the tan with black speckled color. Has a SAP two round holder on the side with velcro. $325 OBO East Valley

All that tech exists, but it ain't close to $300 bucks... Ever heard of the Revic or the Sig BDX system?

Straight up basic answers, assuming your system is tuned and no other errors in the tracking/reticle. Holdover: faster and less prone to mental error by not returning the rifle to zero after dialing for a shot. Dialing: more precise and less prone to mental error of not counting the hold correctly. I could make other observations as well, but the one isn't a whole lot faster and the other isn't a whole lot more accurate. If you don't train for both, the chance for errors increase if you try to switch between them. I have shot over targets because I forgot to dial back to zero. So, I incorporated checks into my shooting system to avoid that error when my brain is overloaded with other tasks. I have also missed shot because I didn't count correctly or messed up a number in my head. Dialing tends to be more accurate because the center crosshair of most scopes is finer and more precise than the holdovers. Sometimes, you have to hold in the spaces between the hash marks, vs. dialing the full dope and holding center up. Center up is good, because the eye naturally wants to center objects and seek balance. Holding over starts fighting against that natural tendency. The further away from the center of the scope you get the worse it gets, and small errors mean bigger misses the further out you go.

That's awesome. The fudds shouldn't be mocked, they put fur on the ground. Most of the time I range and dial too. I run a Sig 2400 BDX that links to my Garmin 701. Its so simple, fast and precise. For us, most of the time there is no practical difference. I went from gun in the pack to deer on the ground in about 120 seconds last summer. Could have held or dialed at 575. A buddy shot off a tripod so I dialed it for him. One shot and he was down. My point is, I learned the system I run well enough to choose the best method for the moment. For dark timber, thats a very, very compelling reason to go to second focal plane. It is a weakness of first focal plane for sure. The reticle I use works good enough, but not as good as a second focal plane reticle. If I am hunting dark timber, I might not take my long range gun. I would take a low power scope as well, probably illuminated as well. Could be second focal plane, wouldn't matter. Guns are tools, and as specialized as they are some are better for some tasks than others. I think if a guy asks a question, it helps to really explore the pros and cons honestly. Not dismiss them for any reason. Discussion is good.

I can hold or dial. I can dial on elevation to my 100 yards zero, and then I hold under three inches at anything inside 150 yards, and hold the crosshair for everything else point blank out to 400ish yards. Beyond 400 yards, I can range and hold the rest or finish dialing. I can do lots of things, whether it is a second focal plane or first focal plane or MIL vs. MOA. I learned mostly on second focal plane/MOA scopes to start, but then started shooting with and learning from people with first focal plane and MIL scopes. Both can be deadly accurate. What some people don't realize is that their turret and their reticle both need to be confirmed, so if you dial and can't figure it out, it might be your scope tracking. Not all turrets dial 100% of the amount, so your 25 MOA you dialed on might only be 23 or 24.5. It matters at far distances. So, until you confirm whether your scope tracks 100%, dialing could put you off by as much as 5%. A calibration error is not uncommon up to 2%, even for expensive scopes. Additionally, the further you hold in the reticle, towards the outer third of the glass, the more optical error you are inducing. There are also perception issues. Things like parallax errors also come into play. So, when it comes to deciding whether to dial or hold, you have to know the possible errors and how to correct for or eliminate them. Fortunately, inside 500 yards, it really doesn't matter given the limited drop and relative size of the kill zone of deer. Beyond that, the errors start to compound and magnify. And, believe it or not, the way your manage recoil will mean hits or misses once you start stacking on the yardage. A big recoiling and light hunting rifle exploits weakness in shooting form. There are strengths and weaknesses to all systems. I prefer first focal plane and milradians, but am just as confident and competent behind my buddies' second focal plane and MOA scopes. They are just different. Yes, there are people who buy stuff cause it is "tacticool" and don't learn the system. I don't like those people either. But, if you think that FFP and mils are for "tacticool" then that tells me you don't really understand what I am doing with it, or you just really like your system cause it works best for you. I get that, and as long as you understand your second focal plane and MOA, it doesn't matter. I don't call SFP and MOA guys "fudds" or other derogatory terms, just because I disagree and prefer a way that works faster for me. Bottom line, is pick a system that works for you and learn it. It will do everything you need. I can hold or dial. I can dial on elevation to my 100 yards zero, and then I hold under three inches at anything inside 150 yards, and hold the crosshair for everything else point blank out to 400ish yards. Beyond 400 yards, I can range and hold the rest or finish dialing. I can do lots of things, whether it is a second focal plane or first focal plane or MIL vs. MOA. I learned mostly on second focal plane/MOA scopes to start, but then started shooting with and learning from people with first focal plane and MIL scopes. Both can be deadly accurate. What some people don't realize is that their turret and their reticle both need to be confirmed, so if you dial and can't figure it out, it might be your scope tracking. Not all turrets dial 100% of the amount, so your 25 MOA you dialed on might only be 23 or 24.5. It matters at far distances. So, until you confirm whether your scope tracks 100%, dialing could put you off by as much as 5%. A calibration error is not uncommon up to 2%, even for expensive scopes. Additionally, the further you hold in the reticle, towards the outer third of the glass, the more optical error you are inducing. There are also perception issues. Things like parallax errors also come into play. So, when it comes to deciding whether to dial or hold, you have to know the possible errors and how to correct for or eliminate them. Fortunately, inside 500 yards, it really doesn't matter given the limited drop and relative size of the kill zone of deer. Beyond that, the errors start to compound and magnify. And, believe it or not, the way your manage recoil will mean hits or misses once you start stacking on the yardage. A big recoiling and light hunting rifle exploits weakness in shooting form. There are strengths and weaknesses to all systems. I prefer first focal plane and milradians, but am just as confident and competent behind my buddies' second focal plane and MOA scopes. They are just different. Yes, there are people who buy stuff cause it is "tacticool" and don't learn the system. I don't like those people either. But, if you think that FFP and mils are for "tacticool" then that tells me you don't really understand what I am doing with it, or you just really like your system cause it works best for you. I get that, and as long as you understand your second focal plane and MOA, it doesn't matter. I don't call SFP and MOA guys "fudds" or other derogatory terms, just because I disagree and prefer a way that works faster for me. Bottom line, is pick a system that works for you and learn it. It will do everything you need.

Its the truth, and I'd keep it for that reason if I weren't downsizing. The .224 valkyrie is a sweet round. I just don't shoot much gas gun anymore.

SPF

Harris bipod with podlock. Is SBRM model with 6-9 legs. Swivel stud mount with notched legs. $85 in East Valley Harris just replaced the swivel and mount, the weld failed on the old one.

SWFA SS mil quad reticle very good condition. $210 East Valley

It trickles in, watch the online places like a hawk. Some are better at backorders than others. The ones that you can call and talk with real people seem to be better.

With 1/4 click turrets it is a PST, pretty sure. The HST has "high speed turrets" and 1/2 moa clicks.

Natchez...

Nice stock. This would sell fast on Sniper's Hide. If I had an extra barreled action I'd take it.

Isn't there an elk forum here?

Just looking for a couple cheap Rem 700 actions to practice some home gunsmithing on. Right handed, long or short. Cheap and broken preferred. PM with pics, info and offers.

All good info and ideas... thanks. All I have now are a couple customs in Rem 700 footprint. I have a couple American Rifle Company actions. Sold all my Savages, loved them, and they got me into DIY "gunsmithing". I would want to be able to shoot it. I am not gonna be messing with the action much, but playing with stock, bedding, chambering, etc. I could use my actions, but I don't want to be tearing them down. Those dang long range shooters... I am one of them, lol. I get it though. I harvest as close as I can get. But, its nice to know I have the skill to shoot a long ways. It is an addicting experience to hit steel at very, very far away. I actually have an Eddystone, but it is a family heirloom, as bubbified as it is, gonna leave it. Those actions don't interest me, it is specific to Rem 700 actions.

I kind of forget about them. Buds is a good option. Not gonna pay more than that, for sure.

Truth... pawn shops are not much different. I figure that will be what I have to do. Doesn't hurt to ask though.

Congrats. I drew the August cow tag for 2020. Hopefully I put it together.

Only long action is left. The long action is tan.

Bushnell Legend T spotter on the table. Best bang for the buck for a spotter. Had two that I used with friends. Will post pics up later. I picked up a little Kowa that I use all the time now. Then, my buddy got an even bigger Kowa so we aren't gonna pull this put any more. $325 obo