300RUM

No problem, I'll just take my bow and shish kabob something.

My partner and I both shoot Parker. They are older now but when we bought them they were some of the lightest bows on the market. We have been very happy with them. You might check what their current models are like.

I don't shoot 6 BR but I am guessing you are interested in chamber variations. If no one here can offer help you might try Dave Kiff at PTG.

I hit the range today for the first time in 5 months. Good to be back. This gun was on the bench next to me. It is one nice looking rifle. I really like the finish on the stock.

Is there a story? That is often a question people ask when they feel somebody has an overly negative reaction to something. If you visited a certain thread a few weeks back you may have witnessed that I react that way to bottom vented muzzle breaks. Yes, there is a story. Twenty five plus years ago I used to shoot three gun matches. A fellow shooter invited me to join him and another friend of his to go shooting one weekend. His friend, a talented aerospace machinist and long range competitive shooter, had just built himself a .50 BMG rifle. At this time that kind of rifle was fairly uncommon. Most that existed were owned by the military. Prior to this none of us had ever fired anything larger than a .300 Winchester Magnum or anything with a muzzle brake. The other two guys were a little older and both around 160 pounds. I was 6’3” and 215 pounds and they apparently thought I would make a good test dummy. I hadn’t quite figured that out yet. We had the rifle out on a bi-pod and were looking it over. The one big concern, was the muzzle brake going to work well enough. I had to open my big mouth and say “It looks pretty good to me”. That pretty well sealed my fate as the test dummy and the first round was handed to me. It was a hot summer day, we were out in the sun, and I was covered with light coat of perspiration. I laid down behind the huge rifle, chambered the round, took aim and squeezed the trigger. I was instantly transformed from test dummy to powdered doughnut. Never had much use for bottom venting brakes after that.

I think they need to stand behind the "barrier" while someone drives a truck toward them at 35 MPH. I bet that would alter their definition of "barrier"

I bet you could prove them wrong with Google Earth.

My memory is getting a little slow bit slow. The Safe Store 2727 West Indian School Road Phoenix, AZ 85017 602-264-7233

There is a store W of 27 Ave on the S side of Indian School. All they do is safes. They sometimes have trade-ins. I got a great deal on a traded in American Security Safe about 5 years ago. Sorry, I cant remember the name of the place.

If the turrets turn to easy it can cause problems. Read "Rookie long range shooting mistake" for an excellent example of this. When I was looking for my first nice scope I rejected the MK-4 ER/T because I felt the turrets moved to easily.

I'm fairly familiar with the 700. I have rebarreld around 12, starting with rough turned blanks, and blueprinted 4 actions. I would not put epoxy between the parts. The 700 action is usually around 0.030 larger than the recoil lug. I would bevel epoxy in there from the diameter of the receiver down to the recoil lug. I would also put some to the back of the lug to the action above the height of the bedding block in the HS stock. It may not sound like much but those pins have to be less than 0.100. It won't take that much to match their strength. If I ever change my mind the tab can be cut off the recoil lug. The action can then be centered in the lathe and everything else turned off. The action remains unmodified.The finish on the rifle is not an issue, it gets sprayed with Aluma-hyde. My goal would to be able to swap barrels without removing the action from the stock or the scope from the rifle. I do not tighten my barrels to the Remington specification of having a big fat lawyer jump on the end of a 6 foot cheater bar. I use hand tight plus 35 to 45 degrees. It is not hard to break them loose and they don't come loose on their own.

Thanks. Good idea about talking to Lester. The few SB guns I have seen were BR rigs and he is really into that. Just have to make sure to take a paycheck to drop on powder. I have a mill and could pin a lug myself but there is something about boring a hole in my receiver parallel to the barrel thread that does not appeal to me. The gun is just a range toy and I am having a hard time choosing what caliber to re-barrel it to. A switch barrel would mean I could pick them all.

Common sense is a controlled substance in California. Not very many prescriptions are given out.

I would look at ebay and gunbroker for used bottom metal if the factory one is good enough for you.

Coues Archer. Buying a scope then a little while later wishing you had bought a better one sucks. I speak from experience. Before you run out and spend your hard earned money consider the following questions. Is the Nikon the scope you REALLY want? Do you REALLY just want a scope now to shoot your new gun? What is the nicest scope you have looked at? What is the nicest scope that has been mounted on a rifle you have fired? If you could have any scope for free what models might interest you? If you were to wait 6 months or a year how much nicer of a scope could you afford? I recently put a new scope on one of my rifles. I waited a couple of years to get it. Because I waited that scope is a Nightforce NSX instead of a Nikon. My guns all have picatinny rails so during the wait I borrowed scopes from other rifles to shoot that gun. The end result was well worth the wait and scope swapping. If you need a tool to help you save look at Rifles, Reloading and Gunsmithing for the American Rifle Company thread. I fixed sjvcon up with a "saving tool" and could send you one also

Is this Mini-me?

Assume the zeroes at 100 yards fairly centered and there are 20 MOA up and 20 MOA down. You won't know till the scope is mounted. Now add 20 MOA up from the rail to the 20 MOA up in the scope. You have 40 MOA at 1000 yards, 40 x 10 = 400 inches. My .308 shows 465 Inch drop at 1000 drop my .300 RUM shows 202 inch drop at 1000. Your 7 mag will be closer to the .300 RUM than the .308. You should be ok with either unless you have to use up a whole bunch of up clicks to zero the scope.

You may have thrown the rifle but I suspect the scope would be removed first. I couldn't get varget for my .308 a wile back. With everything else but the powder the same the group went from around 0.5 to near 2.0. Crazy.

Congratulations. Was it hard to find one?

I typed "piggy bank picture" into the search engine to find it. The first 2 rows were all pink??? Apparently I must type with a limp wrist.

You forgot to crop out the "flyer" to the right of the calipers on the 200 target.

This help?

I always thought it would be nice to have a 1 page tip sheet for the shooter induced factors of reduced accuracy. Something that could be given to a rookie at the range or used by a experienced shooter who neglected his rifle over something like an archery elk tag and is finally back at the range. In my case this year I became a dedicated spotter back in August, my partner drew a sheep tag. Before christmas I caught bronchitis, recovered and then caught whooping cough. My wife now has pneumonia and I am struggling to not catch it as well. Still no trigger time, I am going to need this thing for myself. I could use a few proof readers. As I typed this up myself it has the potential to contain errors. The purpose is to cover shooter induced items only, no gun, ammunition, wind or incline issues. BREATHING Fire from the normal relaxed exhale position of your breathing cycle. Do not hold your breath or forcibly exhale. TRIGGER CONTROLL Horizontal stringing is a sign of sloppy trigger control. Letting the trigger finger jump off the trigger when the sear releases will cause horizontal stringing. Your finger must keep the trigger fully depressed until the rifle stops moving from recoil. Place the tip of the index finger on the lower part of the trigger for the best leverage against the sear and springs. The force of the trigger finger is transferred to the rifle when the sear is released and the trigger comes to a stop. If that force is not in line with the bore it will push or pull the rifle to one side. A good way to see this is to dry fire and watch if the scope's reticle moves when the firing pin drops. For a left handed shooter if the trigger finger is not far enough on to the trigger it pulls the rifle to the right. If the trigger finger is too far in it pulls the rifle to the left. For a right handed shooter if the trigger finger is not far enough onto the trigger it pulls the rifle to the left. If the trigger finger is too far in it pulls the rifle to the right. STOCK If the butt plate is placed against the shoulder too low the shots usually go high. If it is placed against the shoulder too high shots tend to go low. How much pressure the shooter applies to on the rifle's cheek piece with their head has this effect. To hard and shots go low, to soft and shots go high. If the rifle jumps to the side when you fire, to the right for left hand shooters and to the left for right hand shooters, you are putting sideways pressure on the stock. This will throw shots off. If you are not lined up directly behind the rifle, a straight line from the muzzle, down through the knee and leg on the rifle side, the shoulder will flex under recoil, causing the recoil to create lateral movement that will cause horizontal impact shift. If you place your whole hand on the rifle stock the unintentional movement in your hand or thumb when you pull the trigger can cause horizontal stringing. If you squeeze the stock or pull the rifle back into your shoulder to hard it can cause horizontal stringing. 2 Possible techniques Loose hold. Try closing your fingers - like a loose fist - instead of wrapping them around the rifle, or lightly touch it, except for the trigger finger. Firm hold. Use a wrap-around grip on the stock and pull the rifle back into the shoulder with 5 to 7 pounds of pressure. Shift your body weigh forward to load the bipod legs. BIPOD If you preload your bipod and don’t load both legs evenly you can string horizontally. If you do not preload the same amount of pressure for each shot it will change the point of impact. It is essential that the bipod be adjusted properly for elevation and cant.

Thanks, that is good to know. People ask me about it when they are interested in the program. I have only used the download so I have not been able to answer that question.

Unless you also plan on weighing each individual case and bullet before you load don't bother. It is something competition benchrest shooters use to squeeze every possible advantage out of a load. If I do my part as the shooter I have rifles consistently capable of 1/2 MOA. I have never owned one.