300RUM

Many models of rings are available in either steel or aluminum, something to keep in mind if you are concerned about weight. You did not mention what kind of budget you have. Rings like Badger and Nightforce run around $170 per pair. When $170 rings were not in my budget I have bought a couple pairs of Valdada rings for $95. I am very happy with the quality for the price. I would go with the best you can afford. When mounting the rings on the rail put the clamping nuts on the opposite side from the guns bolt. This way they will not be an additional obstacle when loading rounds into the gun.

Lancetkenyon has a good point about ring measurement. The manufacture will generally give a measurement from the top of the rail to the center point of the ring. Some retailers, like Midway, will use the top of rail to bottom of tube measurement because it is easier for the average person to understand. I have several sets of Nightforce low rings. If you look at the Nightforce sight the listed measurement is 0.885. If you look at the same ring on Midway they give a measurement of 0.295. It is the same ring being measured two different ways, pay attention to what dimension you are being given. No exotic super low rings here lance. I did specify a rail to bottom of tube measurement and I did buy them from Midway (the lawyer made me throw that in). Not mentioning the rail to center of ring measurement also was a definitely mistake on my part.

The 20 MOA rail will elevate the rear of the scope slightly but I doubt you would notice much difference between it and a 0 MOA rail. 20 MOA would be 0.2 inches over 1 yard. By the time you get down to the length of a scope, about 1 foot, it is only 0.07 inches. Ring height is the bigger issue. I would go with the 20 MOA rail. If you ever want to shoot far enough that you really need it you will already have it.

Pay attention to the actual measurements of each brand of ring you consider. What one manufacture calls low can be quite a bit different from another manufactures idea of low. I would put the rail on the gun and set the scope on the rail. Adjust the height of the scope with shims until it is at a comfortable height for you. Measure the thickness of the shims and you have a real good idea of what ring height you will like. I like my scopes as low as possible. For 700's with a picatinny rail and 30mm tubes I use rings that measure 0.285 to 0.295 from the base to the bottom of the tube. I have 3 700's with picatinny rails and 2 AR flattop uppers with YHM riser rails. That ring height works well for all of the scoped guns. Scopes can easily be swapped from gun to gun at will.

I have an old Winchester single shot .22 rifle from the 1930"s that belonged to my grandfather. Somehow bagging a squirrel or rabbit with it means much more than getting one with my 10-22. I expect you know exactly what I mean.

Way to go Kaleigh! My hunting partner and I got skunked during archery. His 11 year old son had the youth hunt in the same unit. We took him out and he got his first pig. It was great to be there with them for the experience.

I catch something much bigger than that every time I use my fly rod. It is 6'3" & 220 lbs. and says lots of bad words when it gets hooked. Using a fly rod is definitely a skill.

After you empty the target there is no way you are going to be able to hit it.

I thought up a cheap and easy target frame for ladder testing or checking long range groups when working up a load. I thought I would share the idea. The components are readily available at Lowes or Home Depot. A 10 foot piece of ¾ PVC pipe, cut into 40 inch pieces. One is a spare that you should not need, but…. Two short form stakes ¾ inch O.D. A Roll of 36 inch wide painter’s masking paper. Two clothes pin type clamps that fit over the PVC. A roll of tape. A hammer, if you don't already have one. Cut a section of paper about 45 inches long. Tape each end of the paper to a PVC pole and roll it up. When you set the target up unroll the paper and lay it flat on the ground. Drive the stakes into the ground, narrower than the assembled target. Slide the PVC over the Stakes. Roll paper onto the PVC and install the clamps to tighten the paper between the poles. When you are done pull the stakes out and roll up the paper on the PVC.

Everything but the pink ones,. No problem for me, I don't use pink bullets.

You could easily loose the house on that one. Yes, the bobcat can dish out some damage. A bobcat is not going to take a rottie down by grabbing it by the neck in typical cat fashion, the rottie's neck is just to thick and muscular. If it tries it will get the back half of it's own body bit. The rottie can completely destroy any part of the cat it can get it's mouth on. A rottie's bite is powerful enough crush the bones in your arm.

Looking for a poodle for lunch does have its risks. He could find a Rottweiler instead of a poodle.

I expect he gets paid by the hour. He probably made several times much getting the rag down that way compared to what he would have made using the ladder in the intended manner. He probably has a bright future as a government employee somewhere.

A competitive benchrest shooter with a clean barrel will fire a seires of shots, called foulers, into the backstop before he fires at his target for score. The clean barrel shots will not be as consistent as the ones fired through a fouled bore. I have a .308 that the first clean bore shot can be 2 MOA off. Remember if you are going on a hunt to take the rifle with a fouled bore, not a clean one. Your scope will be zeroed for the fouled bore impact point.

That is an odd thread. It does get used to mount suppressors on pistol barrels. It sounds like you have it on a rifle barrel if you are talking about a brake. Do you have a fine thread 1/4 inch bolt? If not any hardware store should. They are a 28 pitch. Lay the threads into the threads on your barrel and see if they fit together like a zipper. Shine a flashlight from the back side to help inspect the fit. If they mate well it is a 28 pitch. I don't suppose you reload and have calipers to measure COAL? If you do use them to measure across the peaks of the thread on the barrel. If you come up with something reasonably close to 0.578 then it is 0.578 - 28. If you are still stuck on trying to figure this out on Friday send me a PM, I have micrometers and thread pitch gauges and could probably help you out over the weekend.

Back in early December my friend Chris and I were enjoying an afternoon wandering around the desert staring at sheep. This was witnessed by Flatlander, a CWT member. Despite our deviant behavior Flatlander decided to ask us to join CWT. Apparently the bar is set pretty low here. I have plenty of spare time so you have been stuck with me for a while. Chris, with a sick mother and children in sports, has finally found a few spare minuets to join CWT. What kind of a guy is Chris? Well, he has put up with me as a hunting partner for over 25 years, I am sure that says a lot. Chris is also the kind of guy that would donate a bighorn sheep tag to a veteran rather than greedily hold on to it in the hope he may be able to hunt just one more day. If you ever wished you had the opportunity to send that guy a message you do now. Chris, screen name ChrisM, is now on CWT. For those of you who are not familiar with this story look under bighorn sheep hunting / hunts for heroes Posts #1 & #47

Very interesting. If I understand the design correctly the barrel would only need to be hand tight. The clamping lug keeps it from rotating loose. You can change barrels with a torx wrench and your hands. They do pin it to the receiver which is something I am trying to avoid. I have never studied a Tika action closely but it is hard to imagine a feature that would prevent installation of this system.

I will be re-barreling one of my Remington 700 rifles this year and have been considering the possibility of a switch barrel set up. If anyone owns, or has owned, one I would be interested In how it worked out for you. I do not intend to use either the pinning or welding process to secure the recoil lug. I have an idea of using epoxy to secure the recoil lug and action together that I am going to test on some scrap metal. If it does not work to my satisfaction I will scrap the switch barrel idea.

Nice job Brasen. My hunting partner has a son, Christopher, who is your age. He got his turkey last year. We are taking him out today to try and get a pig.

I was doing a little barrel shopping last night and it occurred to me what a unique appearance rifle has. I had just seen the pictures above a few times, yet when I walked onto the range and saw the gun I recognized it as the CWT group effort rifle. There are not many rifles you would recognize like that. As brilliant as the 6.5 mm - .270 Ackley is I think there is an option that could prove a little more fun. When someone asked what cartridge you were shooting imagine telling them it was a “6.5 mm .25 – 06 Ackley Improved” and watch them try process that one.

Anybody have pictures of guns with a spiral fluted barrel they could put up here along with the twist rate of the fluting and number of flutes? I am getting ready to order a new barrel and may get a spiral fluted one. Most of the pictures do not tell what the twist rate is on the fluting. My best guess right now is that I prefer something from 1 in 16 to 1 in 24.

Thanks Lance. I ask for a picture and get a photo album. Based on a little photo analysis if your barrel with brake is about 30" the fluted area is about 18.5" and has 6 flutes they make 9 rotations for a 1 -12 twist. That looks real nice. If the twist gets to fast I think it looks to busy. I looked at a bunch of pictures yesterday. It is kind of hard to be sure how the gun will look when the picture is a barrel only. Most of the pictures of complete guns didn't tell the twist rate or barrel length. I was left guessing.

Could be an interesting strategy. You would be fined (taxed) based on something that is not law. Your representatives in congress did not get to vote on it. Taxation, Representation, where have we heard those two words before?

I have seen that done. I just don't like the idea of drilling the action, what can I say, I am picky. The strongest 3/32 pin on McMaster Carr is rated at 1400 lbs double shear. Pinning a recoil lug is a single shear application so it would take 2 pins to achieve the 1400 lb strength. Something as basic as JB-weld has a strength of 4000 psi. It would only tale 1/3 square inch of bonded surface to match the strength of 2 pins, in theory. It is just something I am considering trying. I thought It might be interesting to have a .260 & .308 switch barrel. I have also considered splitting the difference and just re-barreling to 7mm-08 Ackley improved. I already have the reamer.

I was hunting in 21 and glassing down into a canyon. After a while a pair of 3 pts and 3 does came into sight. I decided to take one of the 3 pts. After he was down and the other deer were gone I heard more movement. A huge 5 point (I should have been more patient) appeared and casually walked over to the down buck. He thrashes him with his antlers for a minuet then casually walked on down the game trail. Apparently a round from a .300 ultra wan not enough and the big boy felt this buck needed even more abuse. I just wish he would have pushed him up hill instead of down hill.