galiuro mountain man

I have a set that I have used for 3 years in SE AZ in the lava rock down here. They are durable and cheap. They are as quiet as the $30 boot covers from outdoor stores and last 10 times longer. I ended up buying my first pair of boot covers from a catalog, with shipping cost me somewhere around $35 and they lasted one long stalk. The bottoms ripped in the rock out here and the stuffing came out. These particular ones were made from thin materials. The ones I made have been through a lot and are still good, and cost me about $5 to make (cost of straps).

A few arrow makers are making carbon arrows in what they call "traditional" style arrows. I have tried a few and they work pretty good. They generally have a weaker spine, so a traditional style bow can shoot them, and there is a bunch of different arrows with different grains per inch to choose from. I would suggest looking into the new stuff out there. I use the CX traditional for the long bow I made, and they fly really good out of it. Also, if you cant find them anywhere local, most of the time shops can find one or two around, or have a couple sent as promos, which means they may be free. That is how I got a lot of the arrows I was putting through my shooting machine.

Make some out of carpet and straps, and just slip them over your boots. Could even use the carpet pad to make them quieter.

Actually, most fall away rests are no more complicated than a conventional tm style rest (two prong). A two prong actually needs to have the spring tension tuned, while a fall away doesnt. There are also some of the some problems that both style of rests share, like getting stuff in the moving parts. The only extra piece added to most fall aways is a cord and they are easily changed and last a long time, look at a srting loop, it is made out of the same material and they last a long time if your release doesnt have sharp eges. I have made a few and bought a few different styles of drop away rests, and ALL of them have made a difference in consistancy. I have done testing by hand and shooting machine and have noticed better consistancy with both metods. As far as which one to buy, there is a bunch out there and all (with the exception of one I tried) were well worth the money. As far as my opinion, I like the Ripcord best because I can lock it upright, and I have not had a problem with them yet (all of my bows have been equiped with them). One more thing, about the Bowtech bows with binary cams, the imbalance is very easy to remedy and should not really be considered when purchasing a rest you really like. Side note: it is my opinion that the only wiskers that should be on your bow is the ones under your nose at full draw, but that is a different subject all together.

Looks good

Nice one

As far as fur hunting is concerned, they are correct. When I was fur hunting and trapping before it was banned I usually quit around this time of year and start back up in October. Now I do it as more of a control for population and will continue through the year. Coyotes kill quite a few fawns around here in late summer so I try to knock their numbers down some. So far this year I did pretty good and was able to kill 63 of them around my deer hunting areas. It will probably take a couple more years like this to really make an impact though. There are more coyotes than I can ever remember, but without trapping there is not any "real" way to control the population.

That is about the same reaction I get from 55gr vmax under 100. Big hole to sew.

I thought about it, but I decided to stay home and go out with my family in the morning.

As far as fox and bobcats the 40 or 45 gr bullets should be good. For coyotes, make sure to have good shot placement, I use 55 gr vmax in 223 and they seem a little light to me just over 100 yds. I have had good hits on yotes and had them run 50 yards before falling, even when hit in the boiler room. I am going to continue to shoot them though, because so far they are the most acurate from my ar. Under 100 and they are devastating, and under 50 they are just plain messy, big exit wounds. I guess if the shots are all under 100 yds the 40 or 45 gr bullets will work great, but I havent tried them on coyotes, only at the range and on rabbits.

Everyone that is a member of Youtube aught to comment that this guy shouldnt tell all the secrets for big coues and play like he is correct. That will get people all messed up on what unit to choose because there arent even wt hunts in some of those units.

My friend shoots a 17hmr and we have learned that shot placement is VERY critical with it. We have had more than one run off with a marginal shot that my ar15 would have dumped the yote with. Just something to think about

It is different, but it is hard to explain. If the angle is about 30 degrees or less it would be a safe bet your pins would hit pretty close to normal. On extreme angles up or downhill the target will be closer than a rangefinder will show. This is because the horizontal distance is actually less than the distance of line of sight. I have learned that shooting extreme anglges I need to shoot low, even uphill, but only a little compared to downhill. My best advice is to go shoot some targets up and down hills and learn what your bow will do and how to aim on hills. About arrow speed, this has a lot to do with it, and it is complicated to explain but I will try. Here is a good question. Lets say you shoot one bow with a 400gr arrow at 300 fps and a second one with the same arrow but the bow only shoots it 150 fps. Both are shot perfectly horizontal. Which arrow will fly in the air for a longer period of time? Niether, both bows will have the arrow drop to the ground at the same time, but the faster arrow will go farther. This is because the arrow has the same effect from gravity no matter which bow it is shot from. If it drops at 1 foot per second from one bow it will drop 1 fps from another, the weight of the arrow didnt change. How this ties ino shooting up and down hills is the faster bow will shoot flatter, making it easier to figure out how far low to shoot, you dont have to try to compensate for more arc. This is the exact same principal behind ammo ballistic charts, and it works the same way, except the arrows dont fly as fast, and they are normally heavier. Hope this helps GMM

If you have that happen to you and a G&F officer checks you, hide your deer tag. You can take a lion with pretty much whatever you want. The handgun rule is for archery only hunts, and this time of year there is only deer and javelina archery only hunts. If you happen to shoot a deer on an archery only hunt and you are packing a handgun, I can gaurantee the officer will do a lead check, hope the deer wasnt wounded during a rifle hunt.

Here are a couple of pics from yesterday. Put my rifle in picture to show size.

I havent had much luck rattling for coues, but a good doe bleat will work good in the early part of the rut, sometimes. The best way I have found to call them is if a buck is chasing the does but they will not let him mount them, try to get into 200yds, then get settled in a good shooting position. Right after he attempts to mount, most of the time he will stand still where he is for a few seconds (probably wondering why she keeps running from him). Do a soft bleat real soft, he should hear it if it is not too windy or raining. Watch what he does, I have had them just look at me, and I have also had them run straight at me. If he doesnt look or anything, give it a few more seconds and blow it softly again, but dont overdo it, he will spook, most of the time the second one will get his attention. If he starts moving to you, dont blow the call again, if he just looks, dont blow it until he isnt looking in your direction, and absolutly dont move. If he heard you, he knows where you are, and I know that they can hear very well (explanation after later). Also watch body language, if he postures up and raises his head real high and kind of puts his ears back, and seems to be looking more out of the back corners of his eyes (eyes probing all around, but mainly staying pinned where he can see behind him), or is making quick sharp steps, at any time after you call, dont call again, he is ready to bolt. If he does this, but doesnt bolt, after a while he will loosen up, then get curious and sometimes he will investigate the bleats. Another thing to watch is his tail, like mule deer, when white tails are relaxed they will flick their tails a couple of times before walking, if you call and he flicks his tail, he could be coming. I know deer can hear very well, it amazes me at how they can pick up the slightest sounds and how far they can hear them from. Last Dec. my dad, my hunting partner and I were hunting mule deer. We glassed a nice buck and some does up 900 yds across a canyon. My dad had already been on a long stalk earlier that day, so he said it was our turn. We got above them and got to about 100 yds and the wind shifted, they all stood up and stared at us. My dad saw this and blew his bleat, a few seconds later they all turned and stared towards him. Then the wind blew from behind us again and they ran. Niether of us heard the bleat from that distance so I thought my dad moved to get their attention. When I asked him how he got them to look his direction, he said he did one quiet bleat. This was in a constant 15 to 20 mph wind, they heard a bleat that a human has a hard time hearing at 50 to 60 yds. That is why I say bleat softly, they will hear it. And like I said earlier, a bleat works really good.... sometimes.

I happen to like brittanies, I own 2 and they are very smart. They point without training, and are easy to teach to retrieve. I have hunted with shorthairs and trained them also. They would be my second choice. The reason being shorthairs are heavier and tear up their feet more in rocks. If they did not have this problem then I would say go with either one, but I beleive brittanies are the best.

I have seen one time in my life where a mule/whitetail cross can happen. I do not know whether the doe conciecved, but I do know what I saw. It was the first part of Jan in unit 32 of AZ. This particular area I saw mulies and whitetails feeding kind of intermixed with eachother during the Aug archery season. There was a definite line between the two herds, 7 wt does and about 20 md does. None had fawns with them, so I imagine that they were not bred, or they lost fawns before birth due to lack of feed or water. Then something interesting happened, the does all started feeding together. I thought to myself it was pretty cool they were tolerant of eachother. But, it got even better, these does all started greeting eachother like deer will from the same herd. They licked eachother on the muzzle area then sniffed and passed by eachother, wt & md together. It was kind of wierd to see this, so I kept watching them. They all bedded in the same area intermixed. Later in the Jan hunt I went to the same area and saw the other part to the story. The does were intermixed again, but what I saw was a trip. The mule deer bucks were chasing does hard, and the whitetails were just hanging out on the sidelines. After a few minutes the anther big mule deer shows up and was chased off by the buck that was with the does to begin with. When he was gone, the wt bucks ran to the first doe he came to and did his bussiness. The mule deer does were still running from any buck that came so the wt bucks were getting on wt does to start, but they were triing to get on the md does. THen the big md buck would run them off. I decided to get closer because I knew the md would eventually run one of the big wt bucks my way, or he would get close enough for a shot. I got about 100yds from the closest doe and watched. It started to snow and the md does werent running as hard from the md buck anymore, but he was busy running off the other md buck. Finally the two md bucks started pushing eachother around, and this is when it happened. One of the wt bucks mounted a md doe. I couldnt believe it. I had always been told that they wouldnt do that, but they did. It was the first doe the wt buck came to and she let him have his way. She looked to be a young doe, small and spindley, but she was a md. I do not know if she conceived, but he was on her about a minute, and had stopped before the md buck came back, so I think he had finished. I have not seen any live cross breeds there yet, but I have seen one that was shot in the same area that I know had to be a cross. It was a 3x3 with md coloring mostly, the dark brow over eyes, black tip on tail, and white butt patch, but it had white rings around eyes, short ears for a md and a fan tail. It was hard to distinguish what rack it had because a lot of md seem to have a wt rack when only a 3x3. It also did not have brow tines, so it was hard to tell from that. It was also a smaller bodied deer, about the size of a wt. All I know is that it was a very interesting deer, and I have not seen one like that since then.

As far as the left turn he was making, he should be at fault. I know someone that was making a left hand turn on a green arrow and was hit by someone that ran the red light. The police cited them for unsafe lane usage even though they had the green arrow. So they took it to court and the judge told them that they were at fault even though they had the green arrow, and that they still have to yield to other traffic. I dont know if this is in all cities, but this is how it was in Phoenix. Maybe the officer didnt want to deal with investigating the guy that hit you for citizenship, or he was just lazy? Anyways, if it werre me I would try to find out what kind of left hand turn laws there are in that area. If the officer wrote the report that the other guy was making a left hand turn, he could be found at fault, and your insurance may work with you on the repairs a little better. May be something to look into.

You can get python locks at Wal-Mart in the bike section. If they dont have them Home Depot has the bigger ones, they are usually towards the fron of the store.

To get it in the tree, there are strap on steps you can use. The ones I have seen use ratchet straps to put them on the trees. Most of the time the reason stands get stolen is because people see the steps or the climing stand is close to the ground. With this type, you can remove them when you arent there. That alone will help with theft. Also, there is a good lock called a python lock. This lock is probably the best I have used for attaching things to trees. Just remember to wear a harness, even when setting it up and taking it down.

I will try that next time. probably next summer when I can get a hot arrow from outside, and a cold one from the freezer and compare. Then I will do the same for carbon.

I havent put anything down yet, but gotten close to some big mule deer. Every hunt that you return home safely is a successful hunt, bagging something is a bonus (a really good bonus). My dad did get one though, not a coues, but a 160" mule deer on Jan 1st. I forgot how much work it is when you get a big mule deer.

Great pigalena. I havent found one yet. Well I cant say that, I know where they are, but before I get there I keep getting detoured by big mule deer.

NIIIIIIICE!