galiuro mountain man

Looks good

Nice one

As far as fur hunting is concerned, they are correct. When I was fur hunting and trapping before it was banned I usually quit around this time of year and start back up in October. Now I do it as more of a control for population and will continue through the year. Coyotes kill quite a few fawns around here in late summer so I try to knock their numbers down some. So far this year I did pretty good and was able to kill 63 of them around my deer hunting areas. It will probably take a couple more years like this to really make an impact though. There are more coyotes than I can ever remember, but without trapping there is not any "real" way to control the population.

That is about the same reaction I get from 55gr vmax under 100. Big hole to sew.

I thought about it, but I decided to stay home and go out with my family in the morning.

As far as fox and bobcats the 40 or 45 gr bullets should be good. For coyotes, make sure to have good shot placement, I use 55 gr vmax in 223 and they seem a little light to me just over 100 yds. I have had good hits on yotes and had them run 50 yards before falling, even when hit in the boiler room. I am going to continue to shoot them though, because so far they are the most acurate from my ar. Under 100 and they are devastating, and under 50 they are just plain messy, big exit wounds. I guess if the shots are all under 100 yds the 40 or 45 gr bullets will work great, but I havent tried them on coyotes, only at the range and on rabbits.

Everyone that is a member of Youtube aught to comment that this guy shouldnt tell all the secrets for big coues and play like he is correct. That will get people all messed up on what unit to choose because there arent even wt hunts in some of those units.

My friend shoots a 17hmr and we have learned that shot placement is VERY critical with it. We have had more than one run off with a marginal shot that my ar15 would have dumped the yote with. Just something to think about

It is different, but it is hard to explain. If the angle is about 30 degrees or less it would be a safe bet your pins would hit pretty close to normal. On extreme angles up or downhill the target will be closer than a rangefinder will show. This is because the horizontal distance is actually less than the distance of line of sight. I have learned that shooting extreme anglges I need to shoot low, even uphill, but only a little compared to downhill. My best advice is to go shoot some targets up and down hills and learn what your bow will do and how to aim on hills. About arrow speed, this has a lot to do with it, and it is complicated to explain but I will try. Here is a good question. Lets say you shoot one bow with a 400gr arrow at 300 fps and a second one with the same arrow but the bow only shoots it 150 fps. Both are shot perfectly horizontal. Which arrow will fly in the air for a longer period of time? Niether, both bows will have the arrow drop to the ground at the same time, but the faster arrow will go farther. This is because the arrow has the same effect from gravity no matter which bow it is shot from. If it drops at 1 foot per second from one bow it will drop 1 fps from another, the weight of the arrow didnt change. How this ties ino shooting up and down hills is the faster bow will shoot flatter, making it easier to figure out how far low to shoot, you dont have to try to compensate for more arc. This is the exact same principal behind ammo ballistic charts, and it works the same way, except the arrows dont fly as fast, and they are normally heavier. Hope this helps GMM

If you have that happen to you and a G&F officer checks you, hide your deer tag. You can take a lion with pretty much whatever you want. The handgun rule is for archery only hunts, and this time of year there is only deer and javelina archery only hunts. If you happen to shoot a deer on an archery only hunt and you are packing a handgun, I can gaurantee the officer will do a lead check, hope the deer wasnt wounded during a rifle hunt.

Here are a couple of pics from yesterday. Put my rifle in picture to show size.

I havent had much luck rattling for coues, but a good doe bleat will work good in the early part of the rut, sometimes. The best way I have found to call them is if a buck is chasing the does but they will not let him mount them, try to get into 200yds, then get settled in a good shooting position. Right after he attempts to mount, most of the time he will stand still where he is for a few seconds (probably wondering why she keeps running from him). Do a soft bleat real soft, he should hear it if it is not too windy or raining. Watch what he does, I have had them just look at me, and I have also had them run straight at me. If he doesnt look or anything, give it a few more seconds and blow it softly again, but dont overdo it, he will spook, most of the time the second one will get his attention. If he starts moving to you, dont blow the call again, if he just looks, dont blow it until he isnt looking in your direction, and absolutly dont move. If he heard you, he knows where you are, and I know that they can hear very well (explanation after later). Also watch body language, if he postures up and raises his head real high and kind of puts his ears back, and seems to be looking more out of the back corners of his eyes (eyes probing all around, but mainly staying pinned where he can see behind him), or is making quick sharp steps, at any time after you call, dont call again, he is ready to bolt. If he does this, but doesnt bolt, after a while he will loosen up, then get curious and sometimes he will investigate the bleats. Another thing to watch is his tail, like mule deer, when white tails are relaxed they will flick their tails a couple of times before walking, if you call and he flicks his tail, he could be coming. I know deer can hear very well, it amazes me at how they can pick up the slightest sounds and how far they can hear them from. Last Dec. my dad, my hunting partner and I were hunting mule deer. We glassed a nice buck and some does up 900 yds across a canyon. My dad had already been on a long stalk earlier that day, so he said it was our turn. We got above them and got to about 100 yds and the wind shifted, they all stood up and stared at us. My dad saw this and blew his bleat, a few seconds later they all turned and stared towards him. Then the wind blew from behind us again and they ran. Niether of us heard the bleat from that distance so I thought my dad moved to get their attention. When I asked him how he got them to look his direction, he said he did one quiet bleat. This was in a constant 15 to 20 mph wind, they heard a bleat that a human has a hard time hearing at 50 to 60 yds. That is why I say bleat softly, they will hear it. And like I said earlier, a bleat works really good.... sometimes.

I happen to like brittanies, I own 2 and they are very smart. They point without training, and are easy to teach to retrieve. I have hunted with shorthairs and trained them also. They would be my second choice. The reason being shorthairs are heavier and tear up their feet more in rocks. If they did not have this problem then I would say go with either one, but I beleive brittanies are the best.

I have seen one time in my life where a mule/whitetail cross can happen. I do not know whether the doe conciecved, but I do know what I saw. It was the first part of Jan in unit 32 of AZ. This particular area I saw mulies and whitetails feeding kind of intermixed with eachother during the Aug archery season. There was a definite line between the two herds, 7 wt does and about 20 md does. None had fawns with them, so I imagine that they were not bred, or they lost fawns before birth due to lack of feed or water. Then something interesting happened, the does all started feeding together. I thought to myself it was pretty cool they were tolerant of eachother. But, it got even better, these does all started greeting eachother like deer will from the same herd. They licked eachother on the muzzle area then sniffed and passed by eachother, wt & md together. It was kind of wierd to see this, so I kept watching them. They all bedded in the same area intermixed. Later in the Jan hunt I went to the same area and saw the other part to the story. The does were intermixed again, but what I saw was a trip. The mule deer bucks were chasing does hard, and the whitetails were just hanging out on the sidelines. After a few minutes the anther big mule deer shows up and was chased off by the buck that was with the does to begin with. When he was gone, the wt bucks ran to the first doe he came to and did his bussiness. The mule deer does were still running from any buck that came so the wt bucks were getting on wt does to start, but they were triing to get on the md does. THen the big md buck would run them off. I decided to get closer because I knew the md would eventually run one of the big wt bucks my way, or he would get close enough for a shot. I got about 100yds from the closest doe and watched. It started to snow and the md does werent running as hard from the md buck anymore, but he was busy running off the other md buck. Finally the two md bucks started pushing eachother around, and this is when it happened. One of the wt bucks mounted a md doe. I couldnt believe it. I had always been told that they wouldnt do that, but they did. It was the first doe the wt buck came to and she let him have his way. She looked to be a young doe, small and spindley, but she was a md. I do not know if she conceived, but he was on her about a minute, and had stopped before the md buck came back, so I think he had finished. I have not seen any live cross breeds there yet, but I have seen one that was shot in the same area that I know had to be a cross. It was a 3x3 with md coloring mostly, the dark brow over eyes, black tip on tail, and white butt patch, but it had white rings around eyes, short ears for a md and a fan tail. It was hard to distinguish what rack it had because a lot of md seem to have a wt rack when only a 3x3. It also did not have brow tines, so it was hard to tell from that. It was also a smaller bodied deer, about the size of a wt. All I know is that it was a very interesting deer, and I have not seen one like that since then.

As far as the left turn he was making, he should be at fault. I know someone that was making a left hand turn on a green arrow and was hit by someone that ran the red light. The police cited them for unsafe lane usage even though they had the green arrow. So they took it to court and the judge told them that they were at fault even though they had the green arrow, and that they still have to yield to other traffic. I dont know if this is in all cities, but this is how it was in Phoenix. Maybe the officer didnt want to deal with investigating the guy that hit you for citizenship, or he was just lazy? Anyways, if it werre me I would try to find out what kind of left hand turn laws there are in that area. If the officer wrote the report that the other guy was making a left hand turn, he could be found at fault, and your insurance may work with you on the repairs a little better. May be something to look into.

You can get python locks at Wal-Mart in the bike section. If they dont have them Home Depot has the bigger ones, they are usually towards the fron of the store.

To get it in the tree, there are strap on steps you can use. The ones I have seen use ratchet straps to put them on the trees. Most of the time the reason stands get stolen is because people see the steps or the climing stand is close to the ground. With this type, you can remove them when you arent there. That alone will help with theft. Also, there is a good lock called a python lock. This lock is probably the best I have used for attaching things to trees. Just remember to wear a harness, even when setting it up and taking it down.

I will try that next time. probably next summer when I can get a hot arrow from outside, and a cold one from the freezer and compare. Then I will do the same for carbon.

I havent put anything down yet, but gotten close to some big mule deer. Every hunt that you return home safely is a successful hunt, bagging something is a bonus (a really good bonus). My dad did get one though, not a coues, but a 160" mule deer on Jan 1st. I forgot how much work it is when you get a big mule deer.

Great pigalena. I havent found one yet. Well I cant say that, I know where they are, but before I get there I keep getting detoured by big mule deer.

NIIIIIIICE!

I use my pins themselves as a rangefinder, if I dont have time to get to my laser one on my hip. Heres how to do it. Find something that is the same size as the chest broadside of what you will be shooting. #D targets are the best, but a box or a pillow will work too. Set it in a safe dirction in case your bow goes off. Step out 20 yards, pull back with an arrow (dont want to accidentally dry fire) and put your 20 pin on the top of it. Your bow will be different than mine, but against a coues body my 20, 30 and 40 pin all are within the chest area of an average size deer. Now 30 yards, do the same exact thing, pull your bow and line your 20 pin with the back of your target or whatever you are using. My bow at 30 my 20 and 30 are still on the chest of a coues deer and my 40 is right on the bottom line under the chest. Now 40 yards, do it the same way. My bow the 20 pin is on top and the 30 pin is just off of the chest. 50 and up for me is a little tricky, so I try to use a rangefinder for that. One thing that will make it easier (and make your groups tighter) is to have sights that have a round guard, center the sight guard in your peep instead of each individual pin. It is also easier to find a spot to pick to shoot because doing it this way because you dont have to change your anchor point for each distance, so instead of focusing on a pin your focus is on the animal. Then when the right pin gets to that spot, let it rip. Also make sure you practice this with each different size animal you go after. You dont want to try this with elk using the same amount of pins on the animal, get a refridgerator box and cut it to the size of an elk. I know on elk at 40 yards just about all of my pins are on fur. I learned a lesson in December with big mule deer, I should have practiced for them. Also any time you get a new bow it is good to practice this. Hope this helps GMM

This is a long one!! I have done a lot of testing with a shooting machine, spin tester with dial indicator and spine tester on which is better. I used top quality carbons and aluminums (one dozen each for this test, will try to test more during the summer). The aluminums were supposed to be straight to about .001" I could only find one that was even bent this much. The carbons were supposed to be straight to .001" also, I found two that were at .002". This was on full length shafts, and one of the carbons was perfect after I cut them down to 28", taking some from both sides, the other carbon and aluminum one that was bent to .001" still. At this point they were tied. Spine on full lenght shafts was a close one too, all of the aluminums were spined where they said they were. All but one of the carbons was perfect, the only one that was off ended up being the one with the .001" bend after cutting. I found the stiffer side on all of the arrows and put that down (same side the cock vane is on)to start and shot groups bare shaft out of a shooting machine at 25 yards and tuned the nocks to get the tightest groups with aluminums and carbons. This was hard because of the two different types of arrows, they needed the bows set up slightly different. I first started with the aluminums in my Outback, and the carbons in my Switchback. Once I got them all tuned I set each bow up to shoot the other type of arrow to verifythe arrow nocks were tuned for the best groups. I glued on fletchings, I put the cock vane as close to the stiff side of the shaft as I could according to the nock, most of the arrows didnt need much nock tuning, so it was fairly simple to figure out how I should glue them on. I had to wait till the next day (aluminum arrows fletches had to dry), then went to 40 yards and shot 100 times with each type of arrow. The aluminums grouped better than the carbons, carbons 1 1/2" and aluminums 1". I was grouping by shooting a paper target and pulling arrows out of it between each shot, and a group was 6 arrows. This went on for 2 days, one day aluminum and the next carbon. I went to work for the next four days. I continued to finish the next hundred shots with the bows swiched. This is where it got interesting. The aluminum groups were starting to get larger. I remeasured all of my setup on my bow, nothing changed. I then swiched bows again, and the aluminum groups were still getting larger. They ended up at 2 1/2" for a small group, and 3" for a larger group. The carbons were still 1 1/2" to 2" consistantly. What happened? I rechecked straightness, all arrows were still as straight as they were when I started. I checked nocks, all good. I then checked spine, I found all of the carbons to still be within 2 percent of advertised, but the aluminums were between 2 and five percent of the advertised. After the arrows were shot so many times, it was actually shooting the spine out of them, the aluminums were getting weaker. The flexing of the shaft at every shot was making them weaker. I decided to test this more so I put away the carbons and shot the aluminums, by hand so it was faster, untill I had to go back to work (I had a job with a weird schedule). I probably shot them a couple hundred times each. Remeasured spine, but not much changed, so the aluminums spine weakness got to a stopping point. What I found was the aluminums were more consistant with what was advertised right out of the box. Carbons are more durable, but I didnt notice the spine issue when shooting by hand, I am not as consistant as my shooting machine. I dont think anyone can notice this shooting by hand, I just thought it was interesting. Oh the cabons weighed in at 372 to 376 grains and the aluminums were 420 to 423 grains, the carbons FPS was 301 Outback and 304 Switchback. Aluminums O 292 S 296. The carbons ar quite a bit louder and the bows vibrated more, but that comes with speed. I didnt have any consistant way to test penetration, but the both seemed to be close. Which ones did I choose? Carbons, for the simple fact I can put them together faster. I dont have to wait as long for the glues to dry. I know there are fast setting glues for aluminums also, but I havent had very good luck with them. Sorry I was so long winded!!! GMM

Holy "coues", thats a cool lookin rack. It would be awsome just to see something like that running around somewhere. GMM

Went out again today. I checked out another place and saw nothing. It is a really good looking area, but no sign what so ever. I called it a day early because I was snowed out. Icouldnt even see 30 yards at times. Most of the time it was around 50 to 60 yards. I had to do some work to my truck anyways so it was good I came home early. Sunday and monday I will go out, and I have a pigalina tag also, so hopefully I have a story then. GMM