galiuro mountain man

Good luck, one recommendation is to get a high quality, or custom string for your bow. I can tell you why I think this has happened, but I dont want to start any arguments. Where did the string break? I would like to know because this isnt the first report of this from the Reezen or Monster with stock strings, and I want to see if it is the same cause as the rest of them.

The animals shot with a bow dont care what kind of fletching you use. I recommend using what works for you, and dont try to change things this late in the game. Spring and early summer is the time to change things up.

Cool kill, especially for a bow. That one is much bigger than the one I got earlier this year. Are you going to have him mounted, or just skinned and tanned?

If a person shoots enough during the year, a new bow can be ready for them, and them ready for the new bow in just a couple hours. When I switched from Mathews to Bowtech, I was shooting just as good with the Bowtech as the Mathews, then the next day I was shooting better. I have set up bows for different people and had them shooting them accurately within a couple of hours from the time they brought them in. Just get it set up and shoot a couple of days, if you have any concerns and dont work on your own bows, go to a knowlegable person with the tools to make it shoot right FOR YOU, and you should have no problems with it. Just remember, if a bow is in spec, it can still be out of tune, and you should shoot it to tune it (paper, walkback, broadhead or whatever kind of tuning), because a bow is more personal than a rifle and it is more critical it is set up for the person who is shooting it.

The very best way to make them group is to broadhead tune after paper tune. It will actually make your field points group better too. First, paper tune to a perfect bullet hole. Then put on your broadheads, and indexing does make a difference, but only for real long shots. Go out to about 30 yards to start. Shoot 3 field points then a bh. If the shot felt good and the bh is way off move the rest in the direction from the bh towards the fp. If you think you may have bobbled or pulled the shot shoot another before moving your rest. Pull your arrows and shoot again after moving your rest 1/32" to 1/16" toward your fp. Go back to 30 yds and shoot again. Dont worry about the arrows not hitting your spot, all you are concerned about is your grouping, you should only move your sights if you think you will miss the entire target. Continue to do the above steps untill you get them grouping together tightly. Some bh types wont tune out of fast bows very well, if they are over 6" to 8" from field points at 30 yards they probably wont tune in very well. Also, if you have one bh that doesnt group with the others, switch the bh with one of the fp and see if it groups. If you get the bh grouping within an inch or so from the fp you can move back and tune them even closer. Move back to 50 or 60 yards and repeat the steps (just mke sure to resight the fp at 30 yards before doing this, you may miss the target all together). This time move the rest 1/64" to 1/32" toward the fp. It really helps to have a micro adjust rest. Once they are tuned you can be confident to this range. All that is left to do is shoot all of the bh and find the ones that group the best. When I tune bhs I have to shoot at two different spots, one for fps and one for bh, or I will ruin arrows. I get them close, then I use different spots and use a tape measure to verify groups. If it is done right your sights will work for both with one setting. My hunting shots rarely go over 60 yards, but I check them out to 90 yds, and my bh groups are just barely over one inch below my fp groups, but I spent about two days to tune them perfectly, then I verified with a shooting machine. I know if I miss it is because I did something wrong and not my bow. After all of this is done dont shoot paper again, most of the time your bow wont shoot bullets, it will be close, but not perfect. The reason it will group better without bullets is because you are lightly forcing the arrow into a direction and the wind and other things have less effect on flight before the arrow starts spinning. I have messed around with this on my shooting machine and I have not found a single bow and arrow combination this has not worked on. Most of the time the tear is only about 1/8" to 1/4" off, it also helps with under or over spined arrows, by helping to counteract the way they come off the bow. The only thing I use paper tuning for is a starting point for the rest of my tuning. Walkback tuning is pretty good for competion shooting, but for hunting I have always used bh group tuning. That way once I am done I can just use fps for practice and I know that my bhs will work with the same sight setting. If I do use walkback for bhs I will usually group tune first and then make sure I can cut the string at different distances. I will shoot two spots at 20 yards with fps. Then I will walkback and shoot one fp at one spot and shoot the othe with bhs. Another thing to think about is if the bow is in time. Binary and cam and a half systems can come out of time (even though the manufacturers say they cant), and it will effect the flight of your arrows, and depending on how bad it is out is how bad the arrows witll fly. I didnt notice if you show what kind of bow you have, if you PM me I can tell you easy ways to check most bows. Hope this helps

Looks like you will be puttin em down. Great lookin rifle and good caliber.

Had another rough day, but got one in at the last minute. I had to get ready for my wifes deer hunt this morning, so I was only able to go out in the afternoon. The wind was blowing again, and harder than yesterday, but I cant skip any free time to hit a coyote. I called four spots with no takers. Right before dark I was able to make it to another hot spot of mine and finaly got one in. He came in hard from behind me. All I could hear was paws on dirt. I was in the greasewood, and he probably would have hit me if I was handcalling (thanks Foxpro). Anyhow, he ran right past me and straight to the Foxpro, got up to it and paused for a second and looked at it then bolted. He ended up about 100 yards before he stopped when I was barking at him, and all he gave me was a head shot, well half his head was showing. Knowing how I can shoot my AR I took the shot and put right above his eye and it was over right then and there. Here is a couple pics. The shot And this is what most of the stuff I call looks like

Thats why I got the Foxpro. I got hit twice last last year, one of them I thought an old cow was beatin me up, he hit me so hard I was dang near kissin the ground. When I looked up the yotes eyses were as big as sausers, then I shot from the hip and took him out. The second time last year, one hit my arm and never stopped. Didnt get a shot and left with a sore elbow. Now I have the caller and shouldnt have to worry about it anymore, but tonight was close.

Hunted almost all day today and got one dog in and one dog down. The wind was blowin about 25mph where I was. I started right after light, took a break from noon til 230 then had enough time for 3 more stands. In the morning I went out with my wife, and had a couple bark from a long ways away, but no takers. After lunch I went back out to another area by myself. I called one stand with nothing happening. Then I went to the other side of the hill and made another stand. At 12min. I had one walking in, then he stopped. I knew he was pretty far so I put the crosshair a little high on him and squeezed. My AR dumped him right where he stood and all he did was twiched. After he was down I checked distance with my rangefinder, and he was at 294 yards. I tried one more stand with nothing and went home. The wind was horrible today, but I wasnt skunked.

Mama?

I use the limbsaver modular stabilizer and a doinker at the same time on both of my bows. I use them for vibration elimination and balance. I have one of the modules on the back of each riser (Bowtech and Mathews) and two mods up front with the doinker on the end. Works very well and is still short.

If you want one that will last forever, use the Bitzenberger. Then you can get different styles of clamps for helical and stuff. They are also fully adjustable and can do three vanes or four and will work with any vanes or feathers. If you want to be limited to what kind of set up you want then get any of the others. I own two of the jo jans and have them screwed to one bench inline so I can do 12 at a time and never use them. They are harder to use and I can fletch carbon arrows faster with the bitz.

Take a couple of days off, you are probably putting pressure on yourself to shoot better each day. Dont beat yourself up and relax, that is what it is about. Target panic and punching usually comes from anxiety and stress, usually because you know you can shoot better. It is actually a vicious psychological cycle that happens to all of us at one time or another. One day, all the arrows fall perfect, small groups right where they are wanted, then the next isnt bad, maybe 1/2" larger groups, but still on target. This is a little frustrating so the next day form is focused on, but in reality form was good now when you look at it, you change something (now it will be a couple of days at least before you are used to it, and the cycle repeats with new form). Then with all of the frustration comes target panic and punching (most of the time it is done by dropping onto the target from above and punching the trigger when the sights cross the target), and it just continues on like this. Then the fun begins, as far as archery goes trigger punching is the hardest habit to break. The easiest way to break this habit is to relax (and I still do it at least once a month to keep my form solid) and not worry where the arrow hits. First find a good, large target butt about shoulder hieght, set aside 20 to 30 minutes a day, and shoot it with your eyes closed, shoulder hieght and at about 5 yards, to get the feel of your form. To break a habit do this for a week or so, but do not try to shoot targets during this week (it may cause frustration again). One day feel your anchor point. Then the next, focus on trigger pull, then stance and so on. After that week your form should be pretty solid. Now it is time to shoot targets, but dont think about anything except picking the correct pin and shoot a group, your mind and body will automatically go back to the same form, and center the chosen pin, and if practiced enought it will squeeze, not punch, the trigger. After this groups should be more consistant. Also, dont worry about holding still on a target, everyone has a natural arc when shooting, just hold around the target and the arrows will start hitting the spot you want. The biggest issue, dont get frustrated to begin with, if you have a bad day, shrug it off and try again later. It is supposed to be fun, right?

As far as tuning, what you really need to do is have them put the bow to spec., then do the rest yourself. Reason being is everyone shoots different and what may be tuned for one person could be out of whack for another. When I did my customers bows I always had them paper tune after putting the bow to spec., then if I saw them at the range, I would help with walkback or group tuning. After this all that is left is to shoot broadheads. I would ask when you pick up your bow if you could paper tune it yourself, it will make shooting the bow a whole lot more enjoyable if it is set up to you and not someone else.

Bobbyo, it isnt the sight that had a problem, it is the hight of your friends peep. What bow did he switch from to go to the DXT. I would imagine it was probably a longer axle to axle bow where the string angle at full draw was not as sharp. With the shorter bows the anchor and peep must be moved to compensate for the sharp angles. If he really likes the sight, move his peep up 1/4 to 1/2 an inch, that should center his sight or at least make it closer. It will also tighten the pin gaps a touch. As far as whisker bisquit goes, it is a decent rest, but to shoot extended ranges accurately proper and solid form must be used. They also have a tendancy to tear up fletchings. I tested one to see if I would like it, and it was ok, but it does slow the arrows down, which to me isnt a big deal as long as it shoots accurate, but it opened my groups up a little, and it even opened up the groups through my shooting machine. That is the reason I shoot a ripcord, it holds the arrow in place, and is not as touchy to any problems with form or follow through. Oh, bobbyo, if your friend wants to get rid of his Spott Hogg 7dp sights let me know.

I see a lot out here in SE AZ every year, 2 of them in my property next to my house, and a couple more at a friends house this last year. A few years ago I got hit by one just above the top of my boot while building a corral, it just scratched me with a tooth, and the little poison that got in burned my led like fire. It also made my fingers and toes numb for a few days. Everyone always wonders why I wear leather boots all year long, even when in the water at the river, and I tell them about being bit and how many times I have had close calls. They CAN bite through leather, but it is better protection than a regular shoe.

Just trace around your boot and cut. Also leave little flaps where the straps wrap around for extra area to sew. I have been putting 3 straps on each one, the front loops around the toes, middle around the back of the boot and the back around the top of your foot. This way it is secure.

No, those are my wifes favorite so I am giving them to her.

I dont know how many sounds the FX3 can have, I know they come with 32, can they have more? Look at some of the websites that sell them, I saw some that had bundles of sounds for couple of bucks, I think they were 5 or 8 sounds at a time. I own the FX5 and have almost 100 by buying these packages and they were all around two to three dollars each.

All that I do is go to a local carpet shop and tell them to save some of the scraps from a heavy carpet they normally throw away. Then I get some carpet thread and sew on some straps I buy from walmart. They have some heavy velcro there that works perfect. I used to use buckle type straps, but I banged a buckle on a rock and spooked some deer on a long stalk a few years ago. I also used to get scraps of carpet pad and glue them into my boot covers, but it wasnt really needed for where I hunt. The carpet was enough. Going without boots is always quieter, but in the lava rock where I hunt it is also stupid (not to mention the amounts of dog tird cactus around). The boot covers muffle the noise of me stepping on rocks and they are silent in sand, and bare feet still make noise when you step on sticks. The most important thing I have found to quiet my stalks is to find good fitting boots. If they are loose or have too much room around the toes, they will sound hollow, and be loud.

I have had a bunch of different releases, and my favorites are the Scott. I currently own the Shark, 2 Rhinos, and 2 little bitty goose releases. All shoot very good, and the warranty is great, it just takes a few weeks for repairs. As far a what style, the leather buckle type do wear out. I shoot all year long and shoot a lot of arrows a day, and the leather gets hard from sweat in the summer. The velcro wears out on the regular strap. It is really a matter of preference, I bought my last releases with the velcro because they dont get hard.

I have a set that I have used for 3 years in SE AZ in the lava rock down here. They are durable and cheap. They are as quiet as the $30 boot covers from outdoor stores and last 10 times longer. I ended up buying my first pair of boot covers from a catalog, with shipping cost me somewhere around $35 and they lasted one long stalk. The bottoms ripped in the rock out here and the stuffing came out. These particular ones were made from thin materials. The ones I made have been through a lot and are still good, and cost me about $5 to make (cost of straps).

A few arrow makers are making carbon arrows in what they call "traditional" style arrows. I have tried a few and they work pretty good. They generally have a weaker spine, so a traditional style bow can shoot them, and there is a bunch of different arrows with different grains per inch to choose from. I would suggest looking into the new stuff out there. I use the CX traditional for the long bow I made, and they fly really good out of it. Also, if you cant find them anywhere local, most of the time shops can find one or two around, or have a couple sent as promos, which means they may be free. That is how I got a lot of the arrows I was putting through my shooting machine.

Make some out of carpet and straps, and just slip them over your boots. Could even use the carpet pad to make them quieter.

Actually, most fall away rests are no more complicated than a conventional tm style rest (two prong). A two prong actually needs to have the spring tension tuned, while a fall away doesnt. There are also some of the some problems that both style of rests share, like getting stuff in the moving parts. The only extra piece added to most fall aways is a cord and they are easily changed and last a long time, look at a srting loop, it is made out of the same material and they last a long time if your release doesnt have sharp eges. I have made a few and bought a few different styles of drop away rests, and ALL of them have made a difference in consistancy. I have done testing by hand and shooting machine and have noticed better consistancy with both metods. As far as which one to buy, there is a bunch out there and all (with the exception of one I tried) were well worth the money. As far as my opinion, I like the Ripcord best because I can lock it upright, and I have not had a problem with them yet (all of my bows have been equiped with them). One more thing, about the Bowtech bows with binary cams, the imbalance is very easy to remedy and should not really be considered when purchasing a rest you really like. Side note: it is my opinion that the only wiskers that should be on your bow is the ones under your nose at full draw, but that is a different subject all together.