galiuro mountain man

Well then, heres the offer I make to anyone here, if you have a 223 and have 556 rounds pm me and I will give you my address so I can get rid of this dangerous ammo for you.

There are no laws that state that you can not put a different caliber upper on a lower marked .223 or 5.56. On another note, it is just an old wives tale that 5.56 and .223 are different. If there was a difference in pressures then the 5.56 round would be made to not fit in a .223. Also if it blew up guns there would be a ton of lawsuits filed. It is just like 7.62x51 and .308, no difference at all in the round but the 7.62 shows a higher pressure, this is because of how and where pressures are obtained in military pressure barrels vs. saami pressure barrels. The only real difference is that the 5.56 has a touch more powder than a factory .223 load. It made this way for max velocity, not accuracy. .223 is normally more accurate than ball ammo.

Ghosthunter is right on the money, they are effective, but the collet is much nicer to use. I have broke one inertia puller and the other is on its way out, so I got the collet puller and wonder why I didnt do it sooner. I still have a use for the hammer, pistol rounds. A lot of pistol bullets have an ogive that is shaped where the collet cant grab them. Most fmj and hollow points work with the collets, but semi wadcutters and lead wont. Pulling bullets is just part of reloading. The reason I have pulled so many bullets in the past is I had someone give me a bunch of rounds for a couple of the guns that I have but were reloaded for his rifles, I pulled all of the bullets and started over with the powder charge because his loads were a grain heavier on one and two grains on the other than what my rifles like. Both loads were the same powder and bullets, just a little more powder. Wish I had the collet then.

I think this whole thing is coming to a head. I have been starting to see AR parts coming back to normal prices and more reloading components becoming available, for example I have a 264 LBC and needed 6.5 Gren brass a month ago it was gone in less than 12hrs, now it still shows available 3 days after it got there. Trust me I got mine but it is still on the shelves. ARs are still not on the shelves like they were before but components are making a come back. At the local "dealer" (gotta load something) there has been more primers and powders available also. For a while all they had in stock was stuff for mag rifles, now they are stocking small rifle stuff (fast powders and small rifle primers). Still waiting for the pistol stuff to get back on the shelves.

For rifle loads, forget the inetia puller (hammer), put the money down for a collet puller. Just about a moth ago I had to pull a 50 round box of bullets (old loads that were ok shooters, but found magic load). Thought about using Thors hammer and decided to buy a collet puller and cant be happier- no more sweating, no mo cussing, and all that is needed is the die ($30) and a collet for each caliber ( about $10). Works SO MUCH better and doesnt even mark the bullets. I used to use THE HAMMER till I got the collet puller, it is faster, easier and wont even start to deform a bullet, like an inertia puller did (my hammer still deformed polymer tips with a piece of leather and cotton at the base).

I stick with my answer.

If you are thinking reloading will save money, you are wrong. Even though it costs less per round to reload, reloading often make a person shoot more. It is addictive to shoot small groups and you will find that more often you will be making trips to the range. If you want the most performance from any gun, you are right on the money there. Once a good load has been developed, you can stick with it and it will not shoot as good from anything else. Another thing reloading does is makes just about anyone a better shooter, with all of the rounds fired during load developement you will get fine tuned yourself in the shot process, not just pulling the trigger. As far as getting into reloading, most of the stuff you need is in a starter kit. After that you will at minimum need dies, and components, also a case trimmer and lube. You can get the Lee case trimmers pretty cheap and they work ok, but a good trimmer is around $100. For lule I use the waxes, a can lasts forever and go on thin so the cases wont dimple on the shoulder. There are also tools that you dont need, but help a lot, and they are a tumbler, primer pocket brushes and a flash hole cutter. Out af all of these I use my tumbler the most, I like purdy brass. I havent cleaned a primer pocket in a long time and rarely use the flash hole tool, I did some testing with a gun vise and a solid bench at 500 yards and found that it really didnt make much difference in accuracy. Another good tool to have is a seasoned reloader to help you the first time, it cuts the learning curve a lot. They will help you get a system down to make the reloading faster and as safe as possible. The most important thing to reloading I have found is a comfortable reloading chair, you will likely spend a couple or more hors at a time reloading each time. Find one that you can spend a while in before you have to get up. I use a nice soft office chair with an adjustable lumbar support and armrests. My old chair was just an old computer chair and it made reloading feel almost like a chore. Now I can sit back and reload boxes and boxes of bullets in one sitting and it has sped up my reloading because I dont need a break as often. For anyone that wants a little more out of any firearm, reloading is one of the biggest steps to get it, and it is a lot of fun to see what handloads can do. It can turn a decent shooting rifle into a great shooting rifle.

No, all of those animals died because they quit breathing.

If I get a tag this year it will be the first in 11 years, but if I dont get one its fine, Im really hoping my daughter gets one, it will be her first in 11 years also. Wait a second she is 11, the first tag is the most exciting, dont matter who you are! No charges yet, but we are checking. Last year it was in little spurts for a couple weeks.

I havent had much time to get out after yotes this year, but there are a couple more down. I dumped one on my first stand and one on my third. The wind started blowing and it was tough in the afternoon so I packed up. This makes 10 total for 3 mornings so far.

I really like the 264, it is pinpoint accurate with just about any load. I built mine with a Rock River upper and a Black Hole Weaponry barrel. I ended up having to put an adjustable gas block on it to slow the cycling down. Overall, I think it is my favorite caliber to shoot, more power than 223 but not any more kick.

I have a 2003 Ford Excurion Limited for sale. It is 4x4 and has a 7.3l diesel. 4 fairly new 285 mastercraft tires, custom exhaust, 6 disk changer and cd deck, dvd player, 3rd row seat, front and rear heat and a/c. Some minor body damage (small dings and such). Put price between fair and good according to KBB at $14,000 obo. Anyone interested call 928 432 0204. 7 am to 730 pm.

Close to 200k, dont remember exactly.

What kind of issues are you having? And, what is the rifle?

For anywhere in southern AZ, find water and thick brush. We have them around my place, but they are mostly on the NM side along the river and venture into AZ sometimes. They do a lot of damage for how few there are here. They can turn an acre of alfalfa into a mudhole in about six hours and not be found in the morning. I have gone after them before, but they hit the thick stuff in the river bottom and a 12ga with a 3" mag shooting #4 shot wont penetrate it. They love the thick stuff, they move pretty good through it. Even using eastern whitetail method of pushing them is tough to do because of the dense cover they like around here.

good lookin fox, and good shot

Good job

There is a definate difference in the amount of deer here. We go out to this area about once a week and fart around all year long, but if we spot a coyote in the little area we know the deer are in it is pretty bad for the coyote. Since trapping was removed in the 90s I had seen a great deal more coyotes and decided that I had to do something. The first year we hit the dogs hard (in 07-08 winter) I shot 67 with 3 other guys behind me at 48, 28 and 13. Now it is just maintaining numbers, and trying to keep up. In 07 from Oct to end of Jan08, we saw a grand total for one day of 23 deer. Now it isnt uncommon to see in the 60s for mule deer and at least 1/8 bucks in Dec through Jan. The biggest thing we noticed was the number of fawns to does in the last couple of years. It is starting to look better out here.

"MY" deer are the only reason I started shooting coyotes again. Five years ago we werent seeing fawns, or really any bucks and does either. We were seeing 4-5 dogs off the main roads a day, every day. We decided to change things and after 200+ coyotes we have deer back where they should be. The coyotes are getting harder to call, but the deer are making a come back in the area. We rarely see a coyote chasing fawns, or anywhere for a freebee and the deer are more settled here, even if they see us driving in.

You could also duracoat it yourself. This stuff is pretty tough and sticks to any finish. All that is needed is a little time and an airbrush.

I got a couple I can share, but the rest are kind of bad. I built my LBC for larger game and tested it on coyotes. Both shots were about 120yds with 95gr V Max bullets @ 2780 fps. First pic was today 3rd stand, 2nd was the first blood from the rifle. I did not move the one today, but I had to move the first blood shot as this caliber is not so "fur friendly". Didnt remember my phone on the first dog today, but would have had a hard time getting a good photo because of the mess.

OK, my dad and I have 12 pts a piece and put in for 23n archery bull and 23n early rifle. What are the odds of drawing either with 24 pts between us. Thanks

I didnt hear of any from unit 27 come to think of it. You would think it would be a pretty productive hunt.

One of the recommendations I have with any scope with finger adjustable turrets (covered or not) is on that has a zero stop. Very handy for a hunter because it is easy to find the zero the set to a certain MOA.

Went into a gun shop in my area and talked with the owner. We got into component prices and he said he found a lower in stock, dont remember where, but it was $400. I was thinking about a build for my daughter, but not at these prices.