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Everything posted by PowellSixO
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6.5 prc seating 156 eol problem
PowellSixO replied to 257 STW's topic in Rifles, Reloading and Gunsmithing
Use rcbs seating dies for Berger. They have a custom seating stem you can swap in for the Berger bullets. -
6.5 prc seating 156 eol problem
PowellSixO replied to 257 STW's topic in Rifles, Reloading and Gunsmithing
What do you mean by damage? The tip? -
Where to have 700 rebarreled
PowellSixO replied to dsotm's topic in Rifles, Reloading and Gunsmithing
Axis works is as good of a place as you’ll ever find. Eric is great to deal with too. -
7 saum 175 eldx @ 2915 fps 809 yards Bullet went through two ribs, both lungs, and was hanging out the off side by a piece of skin.
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.220” is the freebore I’m running. Had to look at my notes.
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Can’t help you with a barrel, but the 7 saum is a great choice. Make sure you have it chambered with extra freebore, so you can load the bullets out for extra powder room in the case. I just had a barrel done through benchmark for a 243 I’m having done for my kids. Turnaround was super fast. You might give them a call. Might be able to get one done quick.
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Can I Pay you right now, and pick them up at a later date? I should be back to the valley in a weekend or two. I’m up in show low.
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I have a good running 1991 Wrangler YJ up for sale. 271k miles on the Jeep. 4.0 engine, manual trans. Runs very well, and is mechanically sound. No leaks. New wheels and tires with maybe 3k miles on them since purchase. New soft top within the last year. Full size matching spare. Clutch, flywheel, throw out bearing, slave cylinder, and driveshaft ujoints replaced by local shop within last year. Brakes work great. It drives great down the highway, even at 75+ mph. It’s a good jeep for the money. Absolutely no rust on the jeep. New battery 3 months ago. bad: rattle can paint job, gas gauge doesn’t work, shocks are older and probably will need replaced in the near future, driver side mirror cracked, brake light lens cracked, seats are old and worn but have seat covers on them, no seat belts in rear, AC compressor is there but needs replaced. I have tried to be as open an honest about this as possible. Runs and drives great. Not perfect, but good starting point for a build, or good hunting rig. No check engine lights on (yes it does have a check engine light). $3800 firm. No I won’t take $3799. No payments! Only trade considered would be a Honda dirt bike for 9 year old kid. Located I show low. 435-668-9597
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SOLD!!!
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It was for a tournament a couple weekends ago. They were released so someone can catch them again.
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That’s not a hit! This is a hit! 😉
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dang!!! I was just there last weekend. Of course. 😆
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6mm Remington deer bullet
PowellSixO replied to Rag Horn's topic in Rifles, Reloading and Gunsmithing
I used to be a big Berger fan. They shoot really well and they do kill. However the performance on game was hit or miss. I’ve since switched to the eldx. It’s a fantastic bullet. It’s similar to Berger in design, with a polymer tip, and a copper ridge inside the jacket to allow the front of the bullet to expand and fragment. The base stays together to allow as much penetration as possible. I’ve taken game from 150 yards, to 809 yards. I took this bucks last year at 809. Bullet was dangling from the skin on the opposite shoulder. This was a 175 eldx, from my 7saum. I shoot the 103eldx from my 243 win. But if you don’t have the twist, I’d go with the 90eldx. Great bullets. -
And lazy.
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I hate to wiggle into this thread, but if anyone has 12 pieces of Norma 7 mag brass, I’ll pay you handsomely. I have lots to trade too.
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I will be the bad guy I guess, and go against the grain. I think a heavier arrow is important. Obviously any arrow with a sharp tip can kill an elk. But after lost elk of my own, I’d say preparing for the less favorable shots/hits is important. We want everything to be perfect, but as we all know it never is. One thing I learned the hard way, is that it is very very hard to track a bull down without a blood trail. So the bigger the hole, and the more holes you have in an elk the better. Rather than rant and rave, I’ll cut to point. A good broadhead, on a heavy arrow. A good broadhead that will cut, and not break is important. A heavy arrow will help pass the broadhead through the elk. If you encounter bone, you want the arrow to keep penetrating. If you don’t encounter bone, the arrow will make two holes instead of one, because it will likely come out the other side. There is a reason people advocate for heavier arrow setups for elk. They’re big critters, with big bones, that have an extremely strong will to survive. Now I think you can go too heavy. I don’t think you need a 1000 grain arrow setup. I tend to think the 500 grain arrow setup is a good happy medium between light and fast, and heavy and slow. Just my two cents.
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Looking for a Bell and Carlson stock, or HS Precision stock for a Howa Short Action 1500. Not too picky about color. Just looking for a quality stock for this rifle. It was my first centerfire rifle, and I killed my first big game animal with it. I’m trying to get it in good shape for my kids who will be hunting this fall. Hopefully they can kill their first deer with it this year. Thanks for looking!!
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Good deal right here.
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Changing your bolt, will result in different headspacing. I ran a bunch of brass far too long, and the primer pockets got too loose. The loose primer pockets allowed high pressure exhaust to escape through the primer pockets. After just a few shots, it was enough to cut the bolt face. It wasn’t horrible, but enough that I had to change the bolt face. It required setting the headspace again. As far as acquiring a new bolt, you may have luck on gunbroker, or on the long range hunting forum classifieds.
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Edit: be in Tucson Friday
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A couple of litters of boxer pups on cl right now. Got my name on one! Thanks
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Rl16 is an excellent powder for 6.5 cm. I’ve achieved sub 1/3 moa at 1000 yards with it and the 147 eldm. I used it as a substitute to h4350, and now I won’t go back. I save the h4350 for my 243.