Kevin

Look at his head Neo, look at his head! I hadn't even noticed the tail, or lack there of! I blew the original picture up and you're right, his tail is very short. Prolly drug it off cause he was tired from carrying all that bone around. Kevin

Neo, Like I said when I posted, there are no details in the article, and you are right, he may be a problem student. My wife is a high school teacher and I know what she has to deal with on a daily basis. However, suspension for a drawing a gun is overboard in my opinion if in fact there were no other issues involved. Kevin

Craig, When you cut the arrows off you effectively increased the spine dramatically. The shorter the arrow, the stiffer it is. The only way I know of to reduce your "dynamic" spine at this point is to add weight to the front of the arrow. Since you're shooting the Gold Tip traditional you can buy their brass weights that screw into the back of the inserts as well as shoot heavier broadheads. I shoot the 55-75 GT Traditional out of my 58 lb @29 inch recurve. My arrows are cut to 30 inches with 100 grains of brass weights and a 125 head on the front of the arrow. Generally you can tune the arrow to fly straight if you buy arrows that are underspined (too limber) and then trim 1/4" at a time until the unfletched arrow flies true. However, you may end up with 5 inches of arrow hanging over the back of the bow. (For you non traditional archers, that's the part facing the target). Since you've already cut them off, your only options are to add weight to the front or buy new arrows. I would suggest downloading Easton's tuning guide and learning how to tune your arrows to your bow. Basically you shoot 3 fletched arrows and 3 unfletched (w/ field points NOT BROADHEADS) and compare where the groups are. By changing the spine of the arrow and the nocking point on the string you can make the groups come together. Once the groups come together, shoot 3 fletched arrows with broadheads and 3 fletched with field points. Most likey they will group in different places as well. Fine tune as described in the Easton instructions to get these groups together and you'll have excellent flight as well as maximum accuracy and penetration from your arrows. That said, you may not be able to ever get these arrows to shoot at this point. What spine (35-55 etc.) and what is your draw weight at your draw? You can only add so much weight to the front before you have problems with trajectory. Casey, heavier or lighter arrows won't fix the flight problems unless the weight is in the right spot. If the arrow was to limber, adding weight to the rear of the arrow by adding the brass weights to the aluminum nock adapter that GT has would make it stiffer. However, more or less G.P.I. won't help. This problem is all spine related. Good luck Craig. You're running out of time for the early hunt this year for this kind of problem. If I can be of any more help let me know. Kevin

This picture went around right after the season this past January. I thought I saw it on this site, but maybe it was bowsite. Can't remember. Anyway, the gentleman is from Minnesota if I remember right. Rex Jensen, from Virden, guided him and I presume is mounting him as well. Kevin

Thanks TAM. For the difference in the money it looks like they might be worth it. Kevin

I recently came into possession of a 7mm Rem mag model 70 rifle with the BOSS system. I can find tuning instructions on the net but not the "sweet spot" sheet. Any chance someone on here might have it and take the time to type them in for the lighter bullets? Thanks, Kevin

Rugerman, thanks for the starting points. It is the classic stainless model. I didn't buy it, I took it and a couple of handguns as collateral on an old truck I "sold" to a kid that forgot to pay for the truck. I may end up selling it since it is a right hand bolt and I'm left handed. I just thought I'd see how it shoots before giving it up. It is well set up (3.5-10 Leupold vx3, harris bipod, etc.) so between it and the Glocks I figure I they're worth the grand he owes me. My wife's not to happy with the situation but if the BOSS will reduce the recoil enough maybe the she can use the rifle. Kevin

There for a minute I thought you were talking about Tommy Very nice "little set". Burro Mnt buck I guessing. Have you put a tape on them yet? Kevin

TAM, how does the p32 compare to the p41? I've got a p41 and an s600 both running on pix universals and much prefer the p41 but I'm sure you know how hard they are to get for a reasonable price. Obviosly the p32 is 3.2 mp vs. 4.1 but that doesn't matter to me. How is the flash and speed from trigger to picture? Kevin

Amanda, Do you know if Scott, Rhonda or the boys drew? I'm looking forward to another of his pictorial hunt descriptions! Kevin

Or in your case Casey, 6-10 of your homemade bullets Sorry I couldn't resist! Kevin

Thanks Coues' N Sheep! That's my normal hunt! Kevin

OK, I drew but I'm out of town and have the slooowwwweessst connection known to mankind and can't download the pdf regs to check the hunt code. Can someone tell me what 1086 is? It's either 29 or 31 in November. Please? Kevin

Not if it is in the same unit that you drew. Then you could hunt both the private land you have permission for and the public land. (Assuming the private land is within the unit you drew). Kevin

Jim, I figure you'd do the same for anybody on this site! CouesSlayer, yeah, with written permission you could hunt the private land, as well as public, if it is in the unit your tag is in. If you mean if you drew, say unit 24, and had permission for someones ranch in 23--then no; not unless you forfeit the public tag. Clear as mud? Redman- don't give up so easy. Some of the ranchers in the Mule creek area may give you permission to hunt their land. It might cost a little but you never know. May still be worth checking out. However, ain't nothing wrong with being the camp biotch! You'll likely have as much fun and spend the license fee on wine, women, or song! Kevin

Jim, you didn't read Jamaro's post? There are no landowner tags for deer, only antelope and elk. All you have to have is documentation from the ranch owner, usually for a fee, that you take to a license vendor and buy the tag. Any landowner can sell as many or as few authorizations as they want. It is not regulated at all by G&F. Like J said, you can only hunt that landowners private land, not the public land. You're right about the outfitter thing though, permission may be hard to come by since many of the landowners lease their hunting rights to outfitters who then sell the tresspass right. Kevin

Your lucky he only molested it! My first homemade digital cam was destroyed on its maiden voyage. The bear that ate it was much larger though. I was able to salvage the Sony camera, after having the lens realigned but the control board and case were shot. I intend to seek revenge this fall! Kevin

I drew a 21 deer tag and a F/IM ibex tag. Just going on three years without an elk tag bites! I've put the Burro's down 1st and 2nd since they split the whitetail from mulies and haven't drawn it yet! One of these days though. Did you guys end up shooting at Thunderbird? I never did see your truck. Kevin

You guys suck! I must have really pissed off the drawing Gods. Kevin

Good, I'll have a trained eye to help me look for mine! Kevin

Yeah, I'll be in the only redneck RV (cabover camper on a trailer) in the place. Just in case there is more than one, I drive a two tone brown crew cab Ford F350. Look me up if you end up out there. Kevin

J Are you going to shoot at the Thunderbird shoot this weekend? Maybe we could get together there? Kevin

What is the rectangular hole in the rock to the left of the bears? It almost looks like it was cut into the rock. Kevin

Should of run them over cause our season is only from October 1 to March 31. Kevin

Great video Amanda! Took me back to my spotted owl hunting days. I spent 3 summers chasing them in the Tonto and Gila NF. To date, it was the most fun I've ever had while working. Great way to get into coues hunting shape too! Kevin