Savageman25

Didn't get one but hopefully I'll be back at it again next year. Wanna publicly say Kennyt is one great person. He did everything he could to help me get one.

Thanks everyone. I have pmed Kenny. I'll keep you all posted. Still have 4 days left and hopes are still high.

So this year is my first year elk hunt and am having a heck of a time trying to find them. I drew a tag for antlerless 19a tag for dec 2nd through the 11th. I understand this is a tough hunt and that it's not and hasn't been easy in the past either.I have been hiking my legs off both high and low. I've been told all kinds of things by all kinds of people. I hear they will be high, then another says they will be low, then another says they'll only move for around a hour in the morning then another hour at night probably while it's still dark. I guess what I'm saying is I don't know what to listen to so I come hear to ask for wisdom. All the water is frozen toward the top of Mingus with little to no sign of any elk tracks in the snow. Wondering if they went lower for ease of watering or is that no big deal at all? Have been told they run from the sound of atvs or razors but won't run from the sound of a truck? Don't know what to believe there. Ive been keeping the wind at my face religiously and tried to pick out areas that seem like they would be good for elk as explained by a book I've read all about elk hunting. To sum this all up I'd like to say mentally I'm still in the game with high spirits but my body is aching from all the hiking and rough roads I've been traveling. Hoping for someone's been in my shoes and can help a brother out. I would like to thank others who have given me insight already but they themselves have even said it was advice based on earlier hunts than this.

Or pay a plumber. Lol

I agree with latestartchase, you can do that fix very easily if you want. I was a plumber for over 8 years (for my dads very established 50 year old company) up until I moved to Arizona last January. I'm figuring that you can't solder so I'll tell you exactly how to do this the way latestartchase was saying. I'm going to be as thorough as possible and treat you as you know absolutely nothing about plumbing so there won't be any doubts that you can do this. Step 1. Go to store and buy X2 1/2"x1/2" sharkbite couplings Short piece of 1/2" PEX pipe (they usually sell by 10', 20', or longer. Your local store may cut it even shorter for you) you will only Need about 3' X2 1/2 MIP washer valves X2 1/2"FIPx1/2" Sharkbite adapter. Small copper tubing cutters (make sure it's the small ones so they can spin around the pipe in the wall) Plastic tubing cutters (they kinda look like scissors, but they are for cutting plastic pipe) Emmry cloth Teflon tape 2. Turn the main water valve off to the house 3. Drain the water down by opening an outside spigot. If no outside spigot flush the toilets and let pressure drain down. 4. Cut the hole in the wall to the pipes larger so you can work on them. 5. Take the copper tubing cutters and cut the copper pipes down as low as you want. Cut lower than any solder has ran down the pipes from being soldered because if solder is on them the shark bites don't like to seal on the pipes as well. I would probably cut the pipes down about a foot to give yourselves room. Don't worry about any looks of the pipes, it's common for copper pipes to look nasty with stuff. 6. Loosen the nuts on the bottom side of the washer box that's holding the valves in place and take them all the way off (note: they may be a little hard to get off, get mean with them your not going to hurt anything) just don't tear up your washer box then you gotta get a new one of those. Pull old valves up and out of washer box. 7. Take Emmry cloth and clean copper pipe that you have just cut so it looks nice and shiny on about the top 2" then push 1/2" sharkbite coupling onto the pipe 8. Put new valves down in holes and start the nut on bottom side, but don't tighten all the way and keep them loose. 9. Put Teflon tape on the threads of the bottom of the valves after putting the nuts to the valves on. 10. Tighten the 1/2"FIP x sharkbite adapter on the end of the valves 11. Cut 1/2 PEX pipe greater than the gap between the top of the copper pipes and bottom of the valve with the adapter by a couple inches 12. Push the PEX pipe onto the adapter on the valve. Take note of how far the PEX pipe pushes into the sharkbite. 13.After PEX pipe is securely pushed into adapter pull down on the valve with the pipe so it's on the touching bottom of box and measure the PEX pipe so it can be pushed into the coupling at the copper pipe, remembering that the pipe must push down into the coupling about 3/4 of an inch or so then cut to length. Then push the PEX pipe into the coupling. 14. Tighten nut so the valve is secure to the washer box. 15. Turn water on and check for leaks.

140 shipped. Lowest I go

Prescott Valley AZ. I make it down to the valley often though so I could meet someone there if it's needed.

Bump, entertain offers or trades.

Bump

Barrel and stock sold. Lower Nikon price. 165 shipped

Barrel and stock SPF

I have a Nikon 3x9-40 active target reticle scope. I took this scope immediately off of a new savage 11 trophy XP predator hunter rifle. The rings and paperwork will come with the scope. No box since this came on a package gun. Asking 180 obo. I also have have the brand new savage take off barrel and the camo stock. Barrel is a 22-250, 22" medium contour. I have the same type savage barrel in 6.5 creedmoor that shoots 1/2 moa. Asking 120 shipped for barrel and stock.

Yep. Found that out. Thanks for the info though.

It's the 19a for dec 2-11

I'll take the k&m turner.