catclaw

OK, I will say it, Remington 700s suck just like most every other mass produced rifle. They are just easy to work on because they were designed for ease of production and there are myriad after market products for them. Of the 5 or 6 that I have had, none would shoot 1" or smaller groups @100 yds without a lot of work, some never would at all. I have/had two Sakos, both were better than any of the Remingtons. Casey is right about your recoil pad, if it had been a 700, you could pick a pre-fit up at Sportsmans for it. For rifles under $1000, you will not find a more accurate rifle than a Savage 112 or Vangard sub MOA. I personally wouldn't buy a .270 WSM mag because of the lack of good quality bullets for it. A .270 WSM has NEVER won a major F-class or long range BR match, the 7mm WSM and 300 WSM have won many. That is saying something. A fix for your recoil pad would be to put that stock in a chop saw with a carbide blade, tape a few wraps of tape around it and cut it off flush with the beginning of that abortion of a recoil pad. Then get you a grind-to-fit [Pachmayr decellerator, Simms et al]and install it. Casey's load may or may not work in your rifle. The 270 WSM is very temperamental. You may have to try a few things to get it to work. Learning to reload with a 270 WSM mag is like learning to drive in a corvette with a 5-speed. Steep learning curve there. Good luck.

Because I didn't drive, I didn't bring my camera. I took a couple of pics with my phone. Here they are...

Glad to hear you are home and doing well. I'm not sure how many photos were taken at the bass tournament since most of us forgot our cameras

Good luck Amanda- we missed you at the tournament last night. Hope this works out for you and you are back on your feet soon. Dennis

SOLD

Sorry, it has the bolt handle on the proper side.

You should keep it as a back up!

I can see locking the thread so nobody else can post anymore but removing it entirely?? I think that was a little much. There were a lot of folks on there that hadn't posted in like forever and we won't get to see any of their comments or opinions on anything. I didn't think it got very ugly at all. But what do I know?

Maybe 345 for the big one. Has short main beams.

OUCH

That is a great bull you killed and yes, there will be more bulls showing up but there are a surprising number that hang around most of the year. I saw one so far this year that will easily go 400" and he was not going anywhere! He is in a really tough spot to get to and probably why he is so big. You gotta get out and learn the unit or get someone who already does.

Here are a couple of pics I took of some bulls in 23N last week.

Very Nice

Bass Pro had some a few days ago. There are at least 3 other Wac em knock-off out there including Bass Pro's Red-head brand. G5 makes a Wac em knock off too. They all seem equally as good to me.

I glassed up 8 bulls yesterday in 23N. Biggest one is a 7x10. I took some pics through my spotting scope but this computer will not recognize an SD card so I can't post them. I bumped a few more hiking- one giant bull. There are plenty of resident bulls in 23N right now. They are strung out from the Rez line to Tonto creek. You just have to get out there. If you have having that much trouble, your brother may want to hire a guide that knows 23N. That is like the very best tag in the ENTIRE world. He would be foolish to squander it away. Every bull I glassed was from a road so I didn't try very hard. Good luck

I have been advised that it is actually a baby bigfoot. Too bad I didn't see any footprints... I never knew bigfoots were color phase???

I cannot explain what you are describing. If you are dead on at 100 yds with a typical scope mount your bullet should be BELOW your 100 yard zero at 200 yds. If you were to mount your scope 6" above your bore, you could induce the phenomenon that you are seeing. Having shot 10s of thousands of high velocity rounds I am very skeptical and would have to see it to believe it I guess. The angle of departure etc has nothing to do with what you are describing. The only way a bullet would be "rising" to the line of sight would be to mount the scope high enough to create this effect which in this case, would be somewhere between 5" and 6" above the bore. Could be that your rifle is stringing vertical and just showing up at 200, your scope has a ton of parallax and is shooting totally different at 200 than 100? What you are describing is NOT a good thing.

I will bet that the pressure signs you are getting might be headspace problems in reality. If you have excessive headspace, the case is driven forward by the firing pin a few thousands and then goes off, the pressure causes the case walls to swell and bind against the chamber walls. There is now a free space between the bolt face and case head, the same pressure that forced the case against the walls of the chamber blows the primer out of the pocket and against the bolt face and mashes it flat. It looks like pressure but is not. If you are under max loads by quite a bit, then this might be the culprit. Adjust your dies so that they barely bump the shoulder back on a case that has been fired in THIS very rifle. See if this makes a difference. Otherwise, you only need to make dang sure that you don't seat a bullet too far out and jam it into the rifling and cause a mess. Usually the magazine length prevents this. Very long VLD type bullets are not good candidates for BARs for this reason. Use reasonable weight and length bullets. Good luck Jake.

I really like the Badger ordinance Thruster brake. It is available threaded 5/8-24 but like any brake of this style, it has to be timed. http://www.badgerordnance.com/productgroup...id=accessories#

How did I miss that???

We fish until? Weigh in is when?

I saw an extra adapter lying around earlier this week. If I can find it, it's yours if you want it. Machined from a piece of 6061 to go on the front thread type binos like pictured.

Very nice Tim. I remember that story and found it amazing that years went by and they were still there!!

Looks like you had a good time! I try and go every other year. This was my off summer

I used to use a Webster Sure-lok but I don't know if they are in business anymore. It is an aluminum billet that is tapped 1/4-20 on the bottom, has a piece of closed cell, high density foam bonded to the top and velcro straps that encircle the binocs. Not all of them have that threaded post in the front to screw the adapter too. I made some on my mill that were a little sturdier when I was running Fujinon 16x70s that worked well too. That block of wood is not going to be much fun I don't think. Tripod will work- far better than hand-holding. The thing about sturdy tripods is that the steadier you hold, the easier it is to see movement; an ear flicker, a head turn an eye bat... just saying. I have an old pistol grip head that I hate that you can have if you want to try it. I think they are abominations, but some folks like them.