Coues Sniper

Very nice goat, and great story. Really cool that you killed the same antelope the other guy wounded!

Good stuff Joshy. Looking forward to those days with my little stud

One of the best deer I've ever seen. I'd show up at a show and just take the damnn head back. I wouldn't have even posted - now he'll probably hide the damnn thing until it blows over. Sorry this happened to you Jim.

Hey-ohhhhhh!!!! Yep, that'd do.

That is a beautiful mount. Cats are so difficult to get a natural looking face, especially if they aren't "growling" or looking super pissed. That cat looks alive in a calm pose. Impeccable work.

Looking for some help here. I have a 300 RUM, Remington 700 Titanium action, and carbon barrel. Whenever the rifle is fired, the the ballistic tips (currently 208 grain A-Max) of the shells in the magazine get deformed. I've tried factory loads and seating bullets deeper with same result. Guy who built it says it's beacuse the gun is so light that the recoil of the rifle vs the inertia of the bullet causes the shells to get slammed into the front of the magazine. Rifle is braked, and recoil doesn't seem excessive to me. The bad part is: he says he can't fix it. I asked if he stiffened up the magazine spring would that help, and he told me it wouldn't. He says he has built others on Ti actions similar to mine that have actually snapped screws on Leupold scope rings. His only possible solution was to add an HS Precision Detachable Mag Box as this has worked before, but would make no promises. Anyone have any other solutions? Is the HS mag box a good idea? Maybe a better brake? Right now all I can use this rifle for past 100 yards or so is a single shot which isn't what I paid for. Thanks in advance.

I have, and yeah it was pretty significant. I only tried long distance a few times and it was only like 430 yards if I recall, but the point of impact was about 12" different. I didn't pursue it much after that as it seemed a waste of time and barrel life. I'll give the Bergers a shot again. As I told Mike, I tried them but never with a full magazine. I forget how much I trimmed off the magazine length to get the OAL to be honest. The rifle and info is still with the smith, I'll look at it when it returns. And you may have a point with the case having room to jump. I always loaded the shells as far back as I could thinking that would keep them from impacting the front of the magazine as much as possible, but that just made the jump as large as possible. Good points to consider. I'd hate to have to put something in the magazine. Just thinking what could possibly happen if it came looses at the worst possible moment... When I get her back I'll see if anything makes sense, but I'm going to see what the tips on the Bergers do first. Thanks for taking the time to help out

2725FPS. Using 89.0 grains of H1000. I love the caliber and the 300VLD. The 300 grain bullets is what makes the big 338's what they are. If you need 200's to 225's, there is no need for such a big case. For smaller 338's, they cant get the 300 grainers up fast enough to retain enough velocity for expansion at long range. So IMHO, the 338 Edge/RUM/Lapua and the 300 grain pills are a match made in heaven. For a 'close to the truck rifle' or one you intend on hiking into some hill top to remain for a few days, the 338/300 grain cartridges are the way to go. They are as easy to tune as a 308 and deliver amazing amounts of down range energy with the least amount of wind drift. Try the 210 Bergers. I have not had any trouble with the 300VLD tips in the 338 Edge deforming while in the magazine. Worst case scenario is they don't hold up and you wasted 40 dollars. Best case scenario is you get your 5 star meal for $40.00. A 300 grain pill, with a BC of over .8, traveling at 2700 fps does sound like a match made in heaven . Really thinking about building one. EVERYONE says those are a pussycat to tune. And I have about 35 or so of the 210 Bergers left. I never shot those in the magazine as I was only doing load development and I was trying to shorten my OAL, when that might have been counterintuitive. I think I still have a few loaded up, I'll give them a shot and see what happens when the rifle gets back. Thanks for the help Mike

By the way Mike, what are you pushing those 300 grain Bergers at out of the Edge? Considering one for my next build, but it will be a "close to the truck" rifle

Thank for the reply Mike, I always respect your posts. I wasn't quite hoping for a free lunch... just maybe a 5 Star meal off the 99 cent menu . Not sure what I can do then. I'd rather not put the HS box in if it's not going to fix anything. I don't think it is a bad lot as I have had the issue with Scirocco's, Noslers, and now the A-Max's. I even seated the A-Max's deeper to avoid the issue, but no luck. I LOVE the weight and balance of this rifle, and it's about 7 lbs scoped and loaded so it carries like a dream. And the accuracy is fantastic. Ahhh man. Pretty bummed. Tyler, I had the same issue with 180's, and I'd rather not go any smaller than that as I lose downrange performance. Part of that free lunch equation Mike was talking about . Elkhunter, I may look into something like that. The Bergers are another bullet I would like to use (high BC), but although they are all copper they have a fragile, hollow tip.

All rounds in magazine get deformed. Like you took a hammer and smashed the tip.

Saw this on another board, made me laugh

48 minutes is stuck in my head for Leupold (24 up and 24 down if centered). But not certain. Quick call to customer service should solve it.

Hootie whoooo... follow the funk from the skunk and the dank that is crunk in the Dungeon. It goes on and on and on, like that... That brought me back man. Good ol' Outkast Sweet owl by the way.

'Nother one. Pull this out whenever you someone tells you they don't use any part of an animal.

MOA stands for Minute Of Angle, and is a measure of the correction used when adjusting your scope for different distance. When Luepold made your target turret, they calculated the drop of your bullet at different distances from the ballistics info you gave them and coverted it into MOA, then used that information to engrave the yardage on your turret based on how many "clicks per minute" of adjustment your scope uses. The term minute means 1/60th, literally from 60 minutes on a clock in an hour (1 minute = 1/60th of an hour). And the angle comes from the angle that you adjust the rifle to hit your mark at a certain distance. So one minute of angle is 1/60th of a degree, which translates to just over 1" at 100 yards. Here is a video that explains it fairly well - I always learn better visually anyways.

Negative. Perfectly legal.

A turret with MOA is superior in my opinion. The fact is, even if you are at the same elevation all the time, other variables will change. Temp, humidity, etc. These may or may not make a difference depending on the yardage, and the point of impact changes exponentially the farther out you go. I've used reticle dots and Leupold turrets based on a specific load, and the magic number is about 600 yards. Meaning, if you're under that distance a preset turret or reticle dot will generally get you there unless conditions are drastically different. After that, you better have everything perfect because your imput data becomes very important. There's a reason military snipers don't use premade turrets . I currently have M1 knobs on my Luepold, and feel it's the best way to go for long distance. For those who are saying they don't want to think about anything or do calcs - you don't have to. Make up a couple different "cheat sheets" for the elevation you will be at with a few different temps and tape the closest one to your stock. If you have time and it's a long poke, take a minute to do a calc and dial exact. If it's a REAL quick shot, it's pretty easy to have yardages in moa in your head if you've practiced at all and dial accordingly and I generally walk around with my scope dialed for about 250 yards anyways. It's a lot simpler than you think. There are plenty on here more experienced than me, but that's my take on it.

Ahhhh Casey, you're so cute. Designer? Come on. Try minimalist, lightweight, and functional without frills. Kinda the opposite of designer. Not to mention EXACTLY what the OP asked for. Obviously there are less expensive brands that are still nice, I just gave my opinion on what was best. I figure, buy once cry once, peace of mind, so on, so forth. I was just joshin' you homeboy.

No phone service needed there Thommy

Exball is the best out there, but you'll need a PDA. Bullet Flight is hands down the best app for a smart phone.

There's a shocker.

Naturegirl, don't listen to Casey (firstcoues). He obviously hasn't owned a quality set of raingear and therefore doesn't know the difference . My vote would also go to Kuiu. Best raingear available at any price, but is less expensive than Sitka or equivalent. It's very lightweight and packable, breathes well - just awesome stuff. Raingear is one item you don't want to go cheap on. It'll bite you when you need it most.

Velocity down, accuracy shouldn't be affected. As gutpile mentioned some may argue the accuracy will go up due to harmonics.

Impressive group at 40!