Hooked_on_Coues

sorry I pointed that out Casey but you had to figure these guys were going to jump on something.....

Booger

I can throw a cat that far.....

Casey you crack me up. Chupacabra (also chupacabras /tʃupa'kabɾas/, from Spanish chupar: to suck, cabra: goat; goat sucker) You built a goat sucker! Good looking gun tho....

sorry Doug, didn't notice your post covered that issue.

Bush didn't go where I would have liked for him to on this. Cheney stepped away from him and supported it all the way though.... Here is a quip on the Bush stance when the issue came up: Bad Brief The Bush DOJ shoots at the Second Amendment. By John R. Lott Jr. A lot of Americans who believe in the right to own guns were very disappointed this weekend. On Friday, the Bush administration’s Justice Department entered into the fray over the District of Columbia’s 1976 handgun ban by filing a brief to the Supreme Court that effectively supports the ban. The administration pays lip service to the notion that the Second Amendment protects gun ownership as an “individual right,” but their brief leaves the term essentially meaningless. Quotes by the two sides’ lawyers say it all. The District’s acting attorney general, Peter Nickles, happily noted that the Justice Department’s brief was a “somewhat surprising and very favorable development.” Alan Gura, the attorney who will be representing those challenging the ban before the Supreme Court, accused the Bush administration of “basically siding with the District of Columbia” and said that “This is definitely hostile to our position.” As the lead to an article in the Los Angeles Times said Sunday, “gun-control advocates never expected to get a boost from the Bush administration.”

He said he was all about change and that is what he keeps doing. Typical politician after all.

That is a good hunt. There are a few nice coues deer in there but they are all the way at the top in the thick stuff. Look at the Apache Kid wilderness area. Beautiful spot and you can hike it in a day. Go all the way to the south end and hike in on the knife-edge (you will see what I mean). You can glass for miles from there. If that doesn't work out, hunt the area north of there where the foothills transition from PJ to ponderosa. The mulies tend to hang lower than you might think. Good luck to your boy, it is a rugged but nice area.

I really like the singles but they seem to either shoot well or not at all. Fore-end pressure on my #1 was critical. Have a couple Brownings, '85 and a '78, and love em. The 45-70 kicks like a rented mule. Loads up to a couple hundred fps below a .458. The '78 is just to pretty to carry in Arizona. I fall down alot....

anything but a .270. (hi Lark)

It can do wonders to a factory barrel that has rough spots. It will never see the inside of my Lilja or Kriegers.....

dang, been lookin for him....

OK, I have a question that is buggin me. Last year oil was $50 a barrel. This year it is over $136 a barrel. Last year everyone freaked when gas went over $3 a gallon. Now its up to $4. Why, if the price of oil has more than doubled, is gas only one dollar more? Am I missing something? Not saying I am happy with this crap but something seems wrong here......

no, somebody else is bringing those.

Dan, go hunt the Alamo Hueco Mountains. Sorry, couldn't help it. I have no idea...... Good luck, have fun.

How big a problem is the 911 button getting accidently pushed without your knowledge and having the cavalry fly in when you are setting up for the shot of a lifetime?

Be real careful with chiropractors. They can cause worse damage. Good luck to all you guys with issues. Sucks to be broken. Up side is hunting Coues deer usually means less packing!

Haven't you guys ever watched "Ole Yeller"? Mean pigs, mean I tell you. I shot one with a 10mm high in the back. When I went up to it the dang thing came after me like a flash, draggin its rear end, clackin teeth and poppin. First time I really appreciated a double tap drill. Shot another with an '06. 30 minutes went by ingetting across the canyon to it. Out of habit I poked it in the eye (open, looked plenty dead). Dang thing was playin possum. Spun around and bit the tip of the barrel. First time I ever fired an '06 one handed while in the air....

I was curious as to how PP affected the stats in the 100% units. It isn't broken down. So, as a non resident with 2 PP every year, could I percievably draw an early hunt in the southern units every year? I have given up hope on the Dec late hunts because I just want to go! Coues additction is the best and worst of it......

Save the weight and use your tripod. Jim White makes a cool little shoe that you can quick change out with optics, or flip the head over and use the "Y" created by the panning handle. I started using the Slik pro. ITs light and you can take the center shaft out and get it down to about 6" off the ground.

Devil, Na, I think USO is really only responsible for hosing non residents in Arizona. NM's problems have come as a result of the outfitter welfare act. There were alot of outfitters involved in getting that in place. When the law changed the number of outfitters went up something like 400%.

Whichever one you draw. Unit 27 has less than 8% resident odds, whereas it has 27% NON-Resident odds. This state is screwed up......

He was looking around for a bucket to stand on......

The big uns I have seen in that unit have been in some pretty inhospitable places. Don't forget to take your fork!

I stole this post from another forum, I am not this smart. I thought it very well done: HOW TO SET UP A SCOPE. I wrote the following a few months ago for a friend, and I'm putting here (in total), cuz I think it is written for real people, and might throw some light on the subject. (HA!, I made a pun on purpose images/icons/wink.gif ). It drew some flack from a few whimps that would love to have ME in their sights, but it is right on, and you can take it to the bank! ------------------------------------------------- OK... here goes (Whew, this is gonna be a long one). There are several things that go on inside a scope, and in the eyes at the same time. Some of them workie against each other. But some terminology first... and we'll leave out lenses that are there to correct some optical or color errors, but don't have anything to do with image forming. We'll start at the front of it all, and work back. 1 - The "Object"... the thing that you are looking (shooting) at. 2 - The "Objective". The front lens is called the "Objective"... it forms the first image of the "object" we are looking at (that why they call it the Objective images/icons/wink.gif It is the lens that "captures" all the light, that is solely responsible for the image quality of the scope... if it is poor, you can't fix the poor image later. This lens is usually made of two different types of glasses (called "elements") sandwiched together, and is called an "Achromat". The Achromat is fully color corrected for blue and green. The red wavelengths are partially corrected, but have what is called "residual color errors". This is the normal type of objective used in shooting and spotting scopes. In quality, they can vary from badd, through sorta OK, to pretty dang good. If one of the elements is made of an "ED" glass, or a "Fluorite" (CaF) glass, the two element lens can be very good to friggin' outstanding. In some instances, objective lenses are made of three elements, and all three colors (blue, green, and red) are completely corrected. This type of lens is called an "Apochromat", and this is the finest lens that can be bought. The best of these can also have "ED" glass, or Fluorite as one of the elements. 3 - The "First image plane". The Objective focuses the light to make an image of the subject, just like a camera lens. This image is upside down, and right/left reversed. This is the first image plane, but NOT the "First image plane" that is talked about when shooters talk about reticles. 4 - The "Erector lens"... (if it is a group of lenses, it is called the "Erector cell"). Because the first image is upside down/wrong way around, we (as shooters) can't use it... so we flip it around with a simple optical group called the "erector cell". This cell gives us a new image that is right way around, called the second image plane. Moving this cell causes this second image plane to move... so micrometer spindles are put against the cell, to get elevation and windage adjustments. 5 - The "Second image plane". This is the second real image plane in the scope, and this is the image plane that shooters call the "First image plane" when talking about reticles. In a fixed power scope, or in a variable with a "First image plane reticle", the reticle would be placed in this image plane. This is where Premier Reticle puts those magical "Gen II" reticles. 6 - The "Zoom group". In a variable scope with standard (non-magnifying) reticle, the zoom group of optics would follow #5. This group of lenses can change the size of the image plane in #5 and then form a new (third) image plane behind it. 7 - The "Third image plane" In variable power scopes, this is the plane that the reticle is placed in. By being here, it allows the image to change sizes, but the reticle to stay the same size. In the context of reticles, this is the image plane that is referred to as the "second image plane" 8 - The "Eyepiece". This optical group is like a jewelers loupe. Is is (or should be) a super fine magnifier. It's only job in the whole world, is to focus on the reticle. Let me repeat that for those that live in Rio Linda... THE ONLY JOB FOR THE EYEPIECE IS TO FOCUS YOUR EYE ON THE RETICLE!!!! It CANNOT adjust, or compensate, or do anything else when things look bad in the scope, or when you can't hit the target... and to try to make the eyepiece correct for parallax, is sheer folly at best, and raw stupidity at worst. If you expect it to do anything else, then stop wasting your time with long-range shooting, cuz you are never gonna make it past mediocre... and take up golf!! OK... now that you know what the insides are like... lets move on. We'll use the zoom scope for our examples. cuz if you can understand the zoom, then the fixed is a walk in the park. In the scope that is set for infinity range, the object forms an image behind the objective (the first image plane)... the erector cell "sees" that image, and flips it over and makes a NEW image plane (the Second image plane). The zoom group adjusts the size of this image plane, and makes a NEW image plane (the Third image plane) that is the desired size. There is a reticle placed in this last image plane, and the eyepiece focuses on the reticle AND the image at the same time. When things are good, that's how the scope workie! --- But... now the booger falls into the soup... IF the third image plane and the reticle are not exactly, (and I mean EX-ACT-LY) in the same place, then your eye cannot see them LOCKED together as one picture. It sees them as two separate things, and the eye can look at each separately, and the eye can also look AROUND one to see the other. --- Lenses are normally measured in metrics (aka Millimeters). Not because the Europeans wanted it the metric system 20 years ago, but because optical strings and chains of lenses (like scopes) are really a string of numbers. There are constant ratios of "this divided by that's" that give image sizes, "F-ratios", and image locations. It's so dang easy to do the engineering using a 10 based system that the optical guys were using the metric system way back in the 1800's. The objective has a "Focal length"... this is the distance behind the lens that the first image plane falls when making an image if a subject that is at infinity (or very dang far away). If the objective has a focal length of 100mm, then the image of that 1000 yd target is 100mm behind it. But the problem with geometric optics (which is what we are dealing with here), is that they follow the laws of geometry... ... and optics make triangles like rabbits make babies. AND... in an optical chain, when you change one thing, one angle, one ANYTHING, everything else follows along and changes BASED on the ratios involved at THAT stage. If we take that same target, and move it to 100 yds, the image in the scope moves BACKWARDS, going further into the scope. Not by much, but it doesn't take much, cuz we're dealing with very small distances inside the scope, and very high magnifications. How far the image moves back, and what it's new position is, is predictable by the mathematical ratios of the angles formed by the subject and the first image... ...OR (for us dummies that lost our slip sticks) by the ratio of the distances to the Target and the focal length, multiplied by the focal length. then ADDED to the focal length. The target is at 100 yds (91440mm), the focal length of the objective is 100, so the displacement is 1/914 x 100, which means that the first image is now at ~100.1mm. Hmmm only .1mm, that doesn't seem like much. Read the following paragraph twice... In a 1x scope, 0.1mm would mean nothing... but this displacement is repeated throughout the chain, AND if any of the optical groups change the image ratio, then the displacement (aka ERROR) is changed in direct proportion to the increase in magnification. So in a 3x scope, it would be .3mm, and in a 10x scope, it would be 1mm, and in a 30 power scope, the image would be 3mm behind the reticle. This means that if you have a variable scope, and things look good at 3x, they may NOT look so good at 12x. Set your parallax corrections at high power. Now, you should have seen a pattern in this last paragraph. READ THIS TWICE!! With the same error in the objective (scope focused at 1000, and target at 100), the parallax INCREASES WITH MAGNIFICATION... got it? If not, READ IT TWO MORE TIMES!! OK... now, if we do the same math for closer distances, like 50 yds, and 25 yds we will see that the error gets really big, so that with a target at 50 yards, and the scope set at 35 or 65 yds, the parallax makes the combination un-usable. --- Parallax is... when the image of the target, and the reticle are NOT in exactly the same plane, and by moving the eye up and down... or side to side, either the target OR the reticle appears to move in relation to the other. You might see the target move and the reticle stay still, or you might see the target stay still and the reticle move over it... both are exactly the same, and which you see, is only a matter of your OWN perception. It is impossible to have parallax while moving up and down, but not have it when you are moving side to side. If you think that is what you have, you have other problems... either you are moving the rifle, or you have eye problems. --- HOW TO SET UP A SCOPE! This is the only way to do it... First, screw the eyepiece out (CCW) all the way, until it stops. If you wear glasses, put them on. Hold the scope up and look OVER the scope at the sky, and relax your eyes. Then move the scope in front of your eye. The reticle should look fuzzy Turn the eyepiece in 1/2 turn, and do the same thing again. You will have to do for a while before the reticle starts to look better. When you start getting close, then turn the eyepiece 1/4 turn each time. Do this until the reticle is fully sharp and fully BLACK immediately when you look through the scope. Than back off a turn and do it again to make sure you are in the same place. Then LOCK the ring on the eyepiece, and leave it alone forever! Second. Set the scope down on something sold, where it can see something at a long distance... half a mile of longer is good. It can be on the rifle, and rested in sand bags at the range... but pick something at least 1000 yds away... even further if possible. If the scope has an "AO" Adjustable objective, then set it for infinity, and look at the distant object, and move your head from one side to the other, or up and down if you prefer. If the reticle seems to move, there is parallax. Change the distance setting and try again... if you are very careful, you can move your eye, and adjust the distance at the same time, seeing which direction gets better. With front objective adjustments, you can turn them either way without worry... BUT with side adjustment scopes, like the MK4-M3, the M3-long range, or the other long range family of scopes, the adjustment must ALWAYS be made from the infinity end of the dial. Turn the adjustment all the way until it stops (past infinity), and then start turning it in a little at a time, until there is no parallax. If you "overshoot" the proper setting, you can't just turn back a little, you must go back to stop at the end of the dial, and start over again. While "AO"s dials are locked in place, and if the indicated distance doesn't match the real distance, there's nothing you can do about it... ... the side focus dials are not locked in place. Once you have found the setting for infinity on the side focus models, then (CAREFULLY) loosen the screws, and set the dial so that little sideways infinity symbol is lined up with the hash mark, so it is calibrated. You can also make little marks or put on a paper tape for other ranges instead of using the round dots that don't match any range. Now you can set it to infinity, but remember that you MUST turn the dial all the way past infinity to the stop, EVERY TIME before going from a close range to a longer range. If you are set for 500 yds, you can go directly to 100 yds, but if you are set for 100 and want to set it to 500, you MUST go all the way back to the stop, and then go to 500 This is because there is a fair amount of backlash (aka SLOP) in this wheel linkage to the focusing cell, so you can set it only from one direction to make sure the slop is always on one side. The other problem with it is, even if you decided that you wanted to calibrate from the other end... the recoil will push the cell back. SO you must ALWAYS set these dials from the infinity end of their scales. To make it easy to not have to remember... I always start from the end stop, when I change range, no matter which direction I'm going in... it adds about 0.023 seconds!