QhunterAZ

From what I have seen its prety much that simple. one of the reasons I have savages.

Ive shoot prety much exclusively trad for the last 2 years. Been shootin stick bows since my dad made me one out of a bambo deep sea rod when I was 8. I got into a wheel bow but couldnt keep myhands off the sticks. I shoot recurves and longbows. Though I do have a preference for the long bow. Good to see other trad shooters in the ranks.

Looks really good.

Bama bow Tribute royal takedown. 75# 28". that was my 20 yard comparison shots between fletch and bare shaft. not bad for a 700+gr arrow flying at 170 ish speed.

Will have some full pics soon as I get my camera back. she's a 75# 28" longbow right at 67" long,shooting a 752gr arrow 178fps. took me some time to get the arrows right had to go to the Easton axis 260s cut to 30.5. 75gr inserts and 300gr broadhead/ fieldpoints.

haha yea no kidding, I get out there and in the thick and climb the rocks to find places. if I was going to sit at a bench or a stand I may not worry about it so much. really its get the best glass you can afford and go handle and look them over real well.

I have had some from pretty much every company, I have fallen and broken 2 Leopold and one Swarovski, and my brother broke my Burris. I learned after that I will buy vortex. each one had its little problems some had sloppy turrets till I sent them back. some would hit the end of the elevation run and slip out and off the tracks. some ended up with wobbly glass after a year of shooting. every one pretty much fixes that. its when you fall and break a 600-2500 dollar scope. only one company I know of will fix it or give you a new one no questions asked. and that Vortex.

careful with the extra cylinder, they are usually timed to a specific gun. they will have the serial number matched to the frame. friend swapped one out one time that was wrong and we had a bullet sprawl down the barrel leaving a 12 inch thin piece of lead from the breach to a few inches past the barrel.

Added weight is about 5 grains the real benefit for me is it keep my arrows from splitting at the carbon if I hit something hard. sort of like a mini fmj arrow. I split quite few arrows chasing rabbits until I started footing them. though I shoot an 80lb longbow not a compound most of the time. so not sure how well the footers would help the compound. soon as the new arrows get here I am going to but a 1/4 inch footer around the nock end as well see how that works. I have had knocks ram themselves into the back end splitting the carbon shaft open on a hit into tree.

The AAEs shot fine, but you can't always get the specified glue when you need it the most. bottles dry up and when I'm out of town and need it to work its a problem. I had a 5 degree right helical they hissed like a tire loosing air, always had other shooters ask if I had a torn fletch, and were hitting my drop away due to the increased height. Though they stabilize an arrow super fast. get a pack and try them out you don't have much to lose even if you don't like them.

Congratulations, and good work on her part, dedication and reward.

FMJs start at 9.1 for a 500 spine and climb to 12 for a 300 spine. then you have dangerous game 300 and 250, the 250 spine have 17.6 gpi.

buddy uses a SBR AR in 300blk, suppressed. pretty much a close range in house defense gun for him. He says its better than a handgun in most cases. of coarse he's running it with a 10.5 inch barrel. he does love it though.

some broad heads fit a bit differently. I foot my shafts with 1/2inch of 2016 Easton aluminum shafts so I haven't needed to worry about it so far.

Not enough to notice with bird shot. You can always check patern on a paper target to be sure.

I believe it is easton infusion that ate micro diameter. Axis are smaller diameter than say most goldtips though.

Hit inserts use the standard points and broad heads. The deep six only use the deepsix stuff. I shoot trade gear so I stick with standard hit but I get the 75gr inserts.

Easton axis 260s cut at 31.5", 75gr inserts, 300grain cutthroat broadhead, 3 five inch right helical feathers. 765 grains.

I like the .338 lapua, that pic to the left is my .338. A remington 700, bluprinted, trued and lapped then put into an AIC chassis. Also have a savage 110 fcp hs in 300win. Weight wise there near the same in the hand. I havent had the time to shoot either much and my bank account is glad about that. Im sure you can keep it close to both your weight and price point. Id recomend getting a good base long range like a savage or Remington in .338. Shoot it for a while and build up from their. New barrel once you wear the original down a bit. Then start droping the cash to improve it. Have you thought about optics or are you set from your 7mm?

Yep there stout fletching, but they are louder, they do not hold glue well at all unless its there special formula. and due to the stiffness they tend to get ripped of a lot more often for me. I went back to blazer after 2 dozen.

What do you do when your swaros take a nosedive and are in a few peices?

There are several 338 cans, they just cost a bit more than a 30 cal can.

Ive found myself spending alot more on the glass than the rifle. Use to go cheep on optics, but after sitting behind them for hours at a time I learned its important to get the best you can afford.

Be sure the tension is not set to low, it is extremely important to keep it above a stiff breeze weight. I have 4 of them and have yet to have any problem other than a bad spring and lost my firstone when the screw came out from the strap. So blue locktite that thing.

high top basketball type shoes for easy ground. and some felt covers for the stalking times. though there are some nice light boots from some of the tactical side that I prefer most of the year till it gets cold. rocky, under armor, Oakley, Nike. I personally use Nike and rocky. I cant find under armor my size. but I like light weight and semi soft sole most have a good spectra or Kevlar liner to keep pokeys out of the bottom. I do not like heavy hard soles for archery hunts. Are you going to be running down bugling elk or just spot and stalk?