Pac8541

This is the precursor to the current Tailhook pack. Its never been fielded, I bought it for a hunt that never materialized so I've only fitted it to my bow and tried it on. Its been stored indoors and out of the sun and has zero damage, stains, etc. Tag is still on it. Max 1 camo and all buckles, zippers, and adjustments work perfectly. $75 shipped. Dedicated lower limb pocket with compression straps secures bow in the pack. There's a slot for the lower cam bottom center in the pocket. Center slot between the upper pads locates and secures the bow in conjunction with the ripcord strap. Very stable. Adjustment for torso/bow length: Ripcord lash strap for bow attaches to shoulder strap and is released with a side release buckle:

I went through a couple different vanes for a new set of ACCs which although aren't micro diameter shafts, were considerably smaller than what I had been using (CT Rhinos). I tried Flex Fletch ST300 (3") and FFP360 (3.6") vanes and found the latter were better with what I was trying to accomplish. I tried these vanes after I was sent a few sets of each for free before making the purchase for a dozen. If you're interested I can send you what I have left and you can try them too, just pm me an address.

Resurrecting an older thread here but has anyone got any experience with the Sea to Summit bags? I need to pick one up in the next month and its pretty much down to the Sea to Summit Traverse or Big Agnes Mystic down bags in the 0-20* range. Kinda leaning towards the StS bag for the price and they appear to get fairly good reviews. However, who knows where those comments come from. I'd rather hear from someone here than an anonymous, "this bag is the bestest!"

I'll sell you a 6" Stealth Archery stabilizer for $40 + shipping if you want it. Realtree Hardwoods Green, great shape. http://www.stealtharchery.com/bow_stabalizer2.shtml

But I'll bet it sells them a ton of Grizzlystiks...

^^^LMAO!! Well said!

It seems the only tough pulls come from shooting the replaceable center section. Shooting spots on the target ends results in much easier removal.

Good grief Jack!! Hope I'll shoot that well at 40!

10" Bee Stinger came in today along with the 6" side bar and QD attachment. Can't believe I'm hanging a half pound 11" off the front of my bow. But, the proof is in the pudding! Last photo is 20yds in gusty conditions. The one flyer seems to be consistently off the pace, I'm gonna have to pull that belligerent turd and un-butt its head. Watching Eders Archery for when they have the complete mount in stock then I'll start playing with the side bar. For now though, the difference is dramatic. Unreal how steady the bow is.

Just bought a Rinehart Rhinoblock tonight. Shot it with a flashlight. Arrows were difficult to pull and had to use a cheapy arrow puller. I'm sure it'll break in a little but its obvious I have virtually NO chance of shooting through this thing.

Dude, thanks a ton. Great looking rig! So, what side mount is that? I just ordered the QD adjustable side mount, 2 bars got front/side, and a QD for the front bar. All but the mount itself has shipped, the mount is a week and a half out.

That's good news seeing as how just about everything through Bee Stinger is back ordered, some items through June. Once again, thanks Robert.

Yeah but I already ordered a Bee Stinger front bar and I wouldn't imagine it would work in Dead Center's QD mounts. I'm finding that in order to level my bow at full draw I need to actually input that into my hold. When I attach my quiver, even more so. I'd rather it run more level on its own.

So how are these bars mounted to your bow? I'm looking at the mounting options from BS and it appears I can either go with their Elite QD mount which features QD mounts front and side on the same unit OR run the standard QD mount which looks like it requires the addition of a single QD mount for the front. Not even sure if what I just typed made sense but I can see it in my mind... Can you post a pic?

Probably a very basic question but how long should a D-loop be? Mine is 3/4" just laying there and I just paid it some attention this afternoon while shooting. It occurred to me that although my anchor point is very consistent with the length the loop is at, perhaps I could lengthen my DL a half inch still get the same anchor point. With my wrist strap release tightened to the last hole and the connection between the wrist strap and release itself about as short as it can be, I still feel like I'm reaching a bit with my finger to get on the trigger. With hunting clothes on I don't see being able to tighten the strap this much which would further lengthen the reach. Does the loop need to be any longer than having the ability to attach a release, and no more? Should I consider shooting straight off the string?

$130 for the string and tune.

'06 Bowtech Allegiance. I replaced the grip shortly after getting it to a wood grip from Torqueless. Not even sure if they're still in business but its beautiful, narrow, and a vast improvement over the factory unit. Its very close to shooting without one so I think I'm good on the grip. Below is the new loop. I think Terrel addressed what I was talking about.

Don't know his last name but could be: big guy, cowboy, lives in San Tan Valley, lots of experience doing this.

Bought an Alpine Mach 5 slide and a factory cable guard from Bowtech. This slide on this rod fits "snugly." In fact I have my doubts as to whether or not it will work, or is designed to work, with a Bowtech guard. The factory slide in comparison, is loose. It actually rattles side to side. Two slides, 2 opposite ends of the spectrum. The bow was dropped off with Terrel at AZ Custom Bowstrings this afternoon and I'll have it back Sat morning. I asked him to see which works best; I'm guessing it'll be the factory slide since there's literally no resistance because there's no contact. I've heard these are crappy slides anyway so a Saunders may be in the near future.

This might be a simple question that I'm making too complicated but do you guys have any recommendation for replacing a cable guard and slide? I've got a Windstalker, circa 2006 when the thing was more of a solution than a problem. I had it installed from the get go on a Bowtech Allegiance so never even tried the OEM unit. I'm now wondering whether or not I can get the same benefits without the weight or complication of set up. From what I understand, unless the Windstalker is installed and set up perfectly it'll eat cables. Switching to something simpler seems like a good decision and will save me some weight and bulk at the same time. I've been looking at the Saunders Z-Rod and Hyperglide. Opinions? Is there anything I need to consider regarding a roller slide vs. non roller on this bow? I'll be replacing my string set soon and it seems like an ideal time to swap this out.

Shot it. Like it. Too much money.

Gonna look at it today, Eric. The Carter I shoot now is a wrist strap with a flexible connection between the strap and release. It hangs freely when not in my hand. My draw happens completely off the strap/wrist. My fingers are not part of the pull and I push fwd on the trigger purposely to prevent a slip and ensure my finger isn't on it. If I can I'll get some video of exactly how the release works.

Today is Caesar Effing Chavez Day so maybe that has something to so with it.

I did. Gonna need a new target soon Moved the draw stop just a touch and shortened the release a bit too. Gonna get the bow to Terrell at AZ Custom Bowstrings this week.

Yeah, overthinking is what I do. It is not healthy. Just something I happened to consider...