452b264

You clean the screw holes, top of the action and the rail with 90 percent alcohol and let it dry. Then coat the action with shoe polish I used jb weld placed on the rail. It dosent take much and dont place to much around the screw holes. Place the rail on the action and use 5 pounds of torque on the screws. as it drys you can trim the excess epoxy off with a razor knife. Before it drys completely remove the rail and clean the action and the screws, set the rail aside and allow it the dry all night. You can install it the next day torqued to your rail manufactures specifications. This eliminates any binding on your scope.

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Theres $2925 in the rifle, a night force rail thats been properly bedded (125) plus you wont have to do any load development so at 2000 I m giving it away.

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Price drop!

TTT

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I had an old Bear bow that squeaked so bad when you drew an arrow a deer could hear it 200 yards away. I also had a PSE jet flight express and the limbs broke on it. I was set up at a shop on the heavy side to. PSE covered it under warranty but I wasn't about to get slapped in the face by the cables again so when it came back I sold it.

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The manual states I should be 2800 fps at max charge weight and I m at 2776 and 3 grains below the max charge with an 11 fps deviation. I ve shot about 12 groups with this load and every one is represented in the photos above. The last photo I posted is the first group at .30 thousands off the lands. The first photo is the last group I shot at 100 yards. The rifle printed a 2 inch group at 650 yards in a 20 mph 90 degree wind. I have a second load for it using a different powder and primer that shoots a .5 average using the same bullet but its a about 100 fps faster. I have also shot a few factory loads that also shot good to excellent. The only reason I m selling it is I need to see a dentist and I already know the bill will be three times the cost of the rifle.

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