lancetkenyon

Bruno's has a bunch of 1# & 8#. They also have a bunch of 140 Target VLD and Hybrids.

Azelkhunter2 is good to go. Stand up seller.

I TOLD you not to look through the Premier and Schmidt & Bender....and Kahles. But noooo.....you just had to take a peak..... You can't unsee those kinds of things.

I know a guy running a .22CM pushing a 90 (.58 G1 BC) SMK @ 3100 from a 1:7". A .224" 95SMK requires a 1:6". Which will spin the heck out of a 50gr varmint bullet... But you could push a 6mm (.62 G1 BC) 110 SMK @ 3000-3050 from a 1:7" 24".

He already HAS the 22". Should make it handy though.

I know a guy building a 6CM, who has dies already if you decide to switch up your current 6.5CM to 6CM instead of .22CM. And, you already have brass that can be neck sized down easily too...just sayin'. You can push a 90gr 6mm just as fast as a 90gr .22, but still be able to go up to 105 or even 115 if you want.....

My 6.5SS is on a 26" #3B fluted. Shoots just fine. 22" is going to lose some speed. So RL26 should help get some or most of it back. But, at the expense of barrel wear. 6.5-.284 Norma is more suited for a long action realistically. And is another cartridge that is a 1000-1200 round burner. I am starting load development on one as we speak. I have heard Lapua SP brass is better about primer pockets than LP brass. We shall see. Lapua also makes .260 Rem brass in SP, so you could go .260AI SP and be a step ahead of 6.5CM in the horsepower race.

I have done that same thing with a Great Horned Owl, Barn Owl, and Red-Tailed Hawk. I just put on my welding gloves, wrap them up in a blanket, and keep a hand on them as I am driving. The Great Horned and Red Tail were calm. That Barn owl was a fiesty little biter. He grabbed me as I grabbed him. I still have a scar from him.

400-600 rounds a year guys. Any of the above are only going to last 2 years. My vote is something like 6.5 SLR, .260AI, 6.5x47L, 6.5CM, .260Rem, 6.5x55AI, 6.5x55 Swede, etc. A Proof would be a tough pill to swallow for me to shoot out in 2 years. You should buy 2 steel barrels and have them both chambered now for a fast 6.5.

Keep at least one of them....my GemPro250 went tits up fairly quickly.

RCBS 5-0-5

I ordered an in stock flat top, and they inletted it in 5 weeks.

Really good scope! Lighter weight, great reticle, great price.

I would think Eurasians qualify as a "target". As long as there is a backstop (like block wall, annoying neighbor's house, neighborhood troublemaker, Prius, tweaker, treehugging lefty, etc.) you should be fine then.

I may or may not continue to do so...

No season on Eurasian doves. Non-native species. If it is legal to shoot a pellet gun within Mesa city limits, it is legal to have the pellet end up in a Eurasian dove....but I doubt it is legal to shoot a pellet gun (pneumatic weapon) within Mesa city limits. How quiet is it? How close are your neighbors? How "left" are your neighbors?

Don't mind the cluttered reloading desk.... Lone Peak SA TI action weighs 22oz. Swapped the knob for a CF knob Shaved 2oz off. Dropped the action in the stock, and set the barrel in too. Nothing fitted yet.

H4831

I did indeed. I don't have my load book with me, but I am pretty close in saying 3120fps, into .4s. Need to play with seating depth a touch to see if they tighten up any, but pretty happy with the results so far. If someone draws a tag, I will get on it.

I have used kinetic bullet pullers (the plastic hammer types where you put a loaded cartridge onto it, tighten down a collet to capture the case rim, and smack the holy heck out of it to use the bullet's own weight to dislodge it from the case.) I have pulled apart thousands of rounds this way. Along with collet pullers as well. I have used kinetic pullers during loading of the bullet seated just a bit too deeply (.005") so I coukd reseat it correctly to meet proper CBTO. I used an RCBS kinetic puller so much, it eventually shattered one day. Pieces flew everywhere. So I bought a new Lyman. I have pulled apart hundreds of rounds with the new Lyman. If used correctly, you can save most bullets without meplat or tip deformation. So they can be used again. Collet pullers sometimes damage the bullet, and they will need to be thrown out. Well, today, I had something happen I have never experienced before. I was loading for a 28 Nosler using 195 Bergers. I finished loading all the rounds for one rifle. Prepping to start the final loads for a second 28 Nosler. With different CBTOs between the 2, I reset the seating die. Well, I was off by .005", due to bullet lot BTO differences between the two different boxes of 195 Bergers, barely too deep. So the first round I put together (primed, and charged), was supposed to be 3.021" CBTO. After seating the bullet, I measured the CBTO. 3.016". Probably .005" seating depth change would not even show. But I don't do things that way. "I will just use the kinetic puller, bump it out a bit, reset the seating die, and reset it to 3.021" CBTO." Put the round in the puller, tightened down the lock nut on the back, walked to the bathroom which has tile floors. One swift rap should do it..... First rap.....BANG!!! I nearly $hit myself. Primer went off, and blew out of the pocket. Luckily, it did not ignite the powder since there was no pressure built without a chamber or bolt face behind it. I did check, and a few kernels of powder did come.out of the flash hole when I tapped it on my palm. Then, I remembered hearing something fall in the bathroom right after it went off, so I went to find the primer..... Found it.... Might have been the anvil I heard fall, but the cup is definitely stuck in the ceiling. I am really glad my wife was not home when this happened. I would not hear the end of it. So, make sure you wear safety glasses when using your kinetic bullet puller. A primer cup to the eye would be really bad. I am not sure of I will using a kinetic puller ever again.

A little horse trading....

Let me check my Ranger in the morning. I might take these from you.

CoolTouch. Ask for Brannen or Robert. Great HVAC, super honest, fair, fast.

If Inwould have known, I would have brought a couple other rifles and joined you.

So, first day at the range behind the March. Quick rundown. Diopter-Easy to get a crisp reticle and sharp target. Parallax-touchy, but not difficult. Tried it from 25 to 450ish. No issue. Very little movement between 100 & infinity, but still useable. 100 mark was spot on for my eyes. Turrets-Pretty crisp. Not as crisp as others, but not mushy. For the little dialing I did to zero, they moved spot on. I will try and do a tracking test soon. Eye relief is great. Eye box is good. Not picky, even at 24x. Zero stop. As I said, really cool and super easy. It is set at the factory totally off. Sight in your rifle, dial whatever you need. Up, down, what ever. Once you are sighted in, take a dime, rotate the zero stop until it stops. Done. Loosen the turret set screws, set to 0, and tighten them back up. Super easy. I backed mine off just a touch so I can go .4MIL below 0. Glass.....here is what most people want to hear about. Great color and contrast. Maybe better color and contrast than my Kahles K624i. Chromatic aberration. I didn't notice any. But I only checked from 25 ton200 on high contrast targets. Clarity. The big question. On a scale of 1-10. 1 being a $50 Tasco, S&B PMII being 9-9.5, and 10 being a $4k+ Premier/Hensoldt/Tangent Theta. Once you get to 8, things get real close. I would say a solid 8. Better than any Vortex Razor Gen 2 or Razor AMG I have looked through or shot behind. Better than most NF NXS, Not quite with most Swaro SFPs or my Kahles K624i Gen 3, on par w. NF ATACR F1s. Mirage was kicking up pretty good later too. Weight. At 24.5oz, it is one of the lightest FFFP scopes out. Pictures below are in no way representative of glass quality. Photos of neighbors 200 yard target. Reticle. Visible on 3x. The heavy outer stadia draw your eyes in too. Subtensions are not really useable. But who needs holds on 3x? 10x. Through the scope, subtensions become visible about 5-6x, usable by 7-8 easily. 15x. A great setting for long range hunting out to 1300+ on medium sized game like coyotes, deer, antelope, etc. Good FOV, still plenty of magnification. 24x. Long range, small target. I was shooting small rocks at the back berm. Center dot is .1MIL (.36"). Plenty heavy for hunting and visibility, but not too big to cover up a very small aim point. Scope does get a bit darker from about 21-24x, but I will check it at dusk later. I regret mounting this scope on my .280AI already. It might just have found a home there. If I can swing it, I can see a new Tangent Theta TT315M going on the 6CM this fall....