lancetkenyon

Lone Peak Fusion TI SA w. Tac Ops CF handle, integrated 20MOA Picatinny rails and recoil lug w. Nitrided bolt. Axisworks is doing my build. I have shot an Axisworks built sub 9# 28 Nosler (w. scope) pushing a 195 Berger, and with the brake, it was not bad at all. Also shot a 9.5# .300RUM pushing a 215 Berger. Again, easy to shoot with a brake. Another few options would be: Defiance Deviant UltraLight (not TI) Big Horn TI Borden Apline TI Mack Bros Evo TI (I have no experience with this one) Stay away from. The Pierce TI. They are the lightest, but with a TI action and TI bolt, they are very sticky after firing, even with light to moderate loads in a bigger cartridge. They one I shot was a 6.5SAUM GAP 4S.

Good buck for sure. Thanks for the insight. Got mine too. Story to follow.

Sasquatch!

I use a Forster trimmer. Works great. But not fast.

Again, I disagree. We, as hunters, owe it to the animal to place the bullet where it needs to go. Not just "close". A 1.5MOA rifle at 100 from a bench and steady rest, at 400 yards, turns into a 6" group minimum. Add many other factors which decrease accuracy (wind variations, high SD, mirage, position of game, imperfect shooting position or rest, adrenaline, no time for proper shot set up, anatomy differences, point of aim, laying on a cactus for 30 minutes waiting for a game animal to get up out of his bed hidden in deep grass after almost being bitten by a rattlesnake and having a big black Angus bull staring you down from 50 yards after belly crawling the last 100 yards of a 1300 yard stalk which is your second stalk of the day on the same buck after being blown out of a precious 1.5 mile stalk earlier in the day on the same buck......etc.), that is a recipe for disaster. For an elk, maybe still be OK, but with a 6.5CM, you better be really accurate at 400 yards. For a Coues, a 6+" group could be a miss or gut shot animal after adding in other factors. For a coyote, could be a miss. And NO ONE wants to miss a coyote, ever!

While I personally do not agree with game cameras on every water source in an entire unit, at this time, it is not illegal. And G&F discussed banning them, but it did not go through. So, figure out where they bed, or travel, or feed, and hunt there. Get off the roads, even one ridge, and you will see 50% more game than the game cameras see. It is tough to determine the meaning of printed word if you are already in a defensive state. I see no threats in the post. Veiled or otherwise.

Way clearer than Vortex Razor's, even the non-HDs. I have 10x42 & 15x56, and have thousand+ hours on them easy.

That is not what he is saying. Jeez, relax. He is saying you can't hack making to his spot and back out. This site not be the best suited to your temperament.

I strongly disagree. Seating depth, especially with certain bullets designs, makes a HUGE difference in accuracy. Especially with the OP's choice of bullets. Can also effect ES/SD, pressure, and average velocity. Meaning more consistent downrange accuracy and less dispersement. Seating depth can make 1" groups turn into 1/4" groups.

Totally depends on your end goal. If you want low recoil, stay where you are. If you want to max out your load and gain performance and speed, keep going. Really, 100fps is only going to add about 100 yards of carrying a certain amount of downrange performance. Maybe going from 600 to 700 yards.

I STILL do this!!!

Is that Astroturf or do you groom your lawn with a pair of scissors? Sweet build. Weight?

Yeah, you are still fairly low on the charge weight scale. I am betting you are in the 2700-2775fps range at the top end of your loads. I am not a fan of Hornady (or Federal) brass. For a 6.5CM, that I planned on handloading, I would go with Lapua, ADG or Alpha brass. WAY better than any others. Will last a lot longer, be more consistent, and much higher quality. For primers, I prefer BR or Match primers. CCI BR2 or Fed GM210M. They are more an upgrade than a necessity. H4350 is tough to beat for accuracy and temp stability. Great choice. Berger 140 HVLD, again, great choice. You will need to work on seating depth testing, as they can be picky sometimes. CBTO, I think you have the wrong measurement. No way a 6.5CM has a 3.125" CBTO (Cartridge Base To Ogive) You should be more like 2.190" or so. Even COAL would be long at 3.125". Should be like 2.825" to 2.995" to fit in the SA magazine, even with a Wyatt's Extended box.

If you haven't found pressure, unless you want to stay at a low charge, keep going. Looks like your node was 39.5 to 40.7gr. A little more info would help. Bullet? Powder? Primer? Case? CBTO/COAL? Velocity? Barrel lengrh? Twist rate?

Is it really only $1 more with scope?

This shouldn'tast long. Great price.

Hey Adam, did you ever take your firing pin to get looked at?

This is my wife's daily driver. This thing is going to get me arrested someday. Had a "bit" of work done to the motor.

I can't seem to text you. Says invalid recipient. PM sent

Would like to inspect the 28 Nosler brass if it is indeed once fired. Would be willing to pick up the dies as well if brass is good.

I bet more of them speak English than they let on.

I got tired of my all black 6.5SS. So I pulled the stock, cleaned it, marked it, and did a quick paint job on it. 30 minutes start to finish coats. Just something to break up the all black for now. I will probably repaint it this fall, when I can take my time. Still hashing out the scheme.

Yep. That is the plan. Threw a quick 30 minute paint job on it. Shot this group yesterday @ 200 yards. Zeroed it where I wanted it. Then, over the course of 2+ hours, I took 3 separate cold bore shots @ 200 while working on other rifles.

This...is the ONLY Tangent Theta that matters around here. For Cliff's viewing pleasure....