lancetkenyon

No time like the present.....I have it on 3 sites, but a local sale would be nice. Comes ready to mount and shoot.

Well buy it then! Anyone who HASN'T looked through an S&B.....DON'T! You will become addicted.

I can knock them out too, if you mail them to me. North central Phoenix area.

If there is no lightning, stay and keep glassing. I have glassed tons of deer and elk moving during the rain. If there is lightning, or you even hear thunder, GTF off the top of the hill, keep your head down, and put down anything metal you are carrying. In 2017, I was elk hunting, and was 1 mile from my truck. Had a storm moving in, and started to hear thunder. Made a beeline for the truck, and glad I did. Had lightning hitting within 100' of the truck for about 45 minutes. And it nailed the hill I was sitting on.

I thought the same thing when I first saw the photos last week. Switch angles on the bulls. Side by side them. Put the Mullins bull in the back. Get photos straight on. Have an official preliminary measure performed. I bet the opinions reverse. But not saying the tapes were not stretched a bit. We shall see in 90 days... I would shoot either one in a heartbeat.

By the way....the dogs are freaking awesome. Real pains in the butt sometimes, but I love them.

This fall/winter. I have been so freaking busy it is unreal. I have rounds loaded to test, just need: time, an open desert, and cooler weather.

Mirage has no impact on barrel accuracy. But it makes a huge impact on perceived POA. Mirage will cause your aim to wander greatly, seemingly causing errant shots, when in actuality, it is just Point of Aim issues. Light direction can cause this as well. Hot barrels can and will definitely cause shots to walk. I usually only shoot 3 shots in 30 minutes or so. When at the range, I always have 2-4 rifles I alternate 3 shot strings between. Let the barrels "cool" (relative term if the barrel is sitting in direct sunlight in 113* temps) between 3 shot strings. I shoot almost every weekend, and it takes me 5-6 hours to shoot 12-18 rounds in each of 3 rifles. I see guys all the time shooting 40 rounds in an hour and wondering why their groups suck. Well, when you shoot 20 rounds in 15 minutes, yeah, POI is going to wander. Let alone the mirage from the barrel screwing with POA.

22....or was it 23?

Seldom, but yes. I have a coworker that lives on the very northeast edge of New River, and he had a pig killed by a bear 3 or 4 years ago.

If you are stuck on 6.5 (which I am not against in the least for antelope/deer/sheep, just not for grizzly), even the fast magnums do not recoil that bad without a brake. No need to load them.down for hunting unless they are not as accurate at the top end. A 7SS or .300SS would be a better choice if grizzly are seriously on the list. If you are in Phoenix, and you want to fondle a couple Manners stocks, let me know. EH1, EH2, PRS2. I would still go for the EH4 for my own lightweight rifle. A good #2 barrel, with proper load development, should shoot just as good as a Proof Sendero Light for the first (and most important) 2-3 shots. A Proof will be stiffer than a #2, so therefore probably easier to tune with a broader node to work in. Every Proof barrel I have shot has been very accurate. But then again, most custom steel barrels have been as well. I have shot three 6.5SAUM, and six 6.5SS in short actions. The 6.5SS was conceived to fit in a true short action better than the SAUM does without seating the bullets into the case as much. Both my 6.5SSs are on short actions. Not mediums. R700SA and Lone Peak Fuzion TI SA. But, the R700 has been cut for a Wyatt's box, and the Lone Peak is set up for one already from the factory. Also, the 6.5SS is cut with .250" freebore to allow seating bullets out, where most 6.5SAUMs are .188" freebore (and some less) if I recall. The 6.5SAUM and 6.5SS are both very accurate. Flip a coin. Both can push a 140gr 3150 if you stand on them, 3200 is not unheard of if you use certain powders. I choose not to use those however. I run a 140 Hybrid @ 3120, a 150 SMK @ 3117, or a 127 LRX @ 3210 in my older 25.5" 1:8" 5R Bartlein #3b fluted 6.5SS. My new 6.5SS only has like 40 rounds down the barrel. 26" 1:7.5" Proof 4 groove. So far, I have gotten the 156 Berger up to 3024fps in the first 21 rounds down the barrel. So far, low .1 to .3s out to 200 in heavy mirage and winds. I tried the 131 Hammer Hunter in it this weekend, and they seem like they are going g to shoot good too. .3s @ 3151 & 3182fps in a barrel that is not broken in and sped up yet.

"Killing Everything Vermin" (KEV)

I should be able to let you know in a couple weeks, when Taylor smokes a pronghorn with them....

I went light and fast(er) in my 6.5SLR. 130 OTM @ 2888. Very similar retained velocity and energy at 900 yards as the 147 ELD-M @ 2685fps. 45" less drop, but 3" more drift in a 10mph 90° full value wind, reduced TOF too.

If you like the 6.5SS....w. the 156 Berger Elite.... The rifle ain't bad either. Not an "ultralight", but it is a real shooter so far. 9lbs 12oz with some heavier glass on it. A different stock/bottom metal could easily shave another 1.5# off.

I sure as heck would NOT build ANY 6.5 for grizzly protection. .300WSM, .300SS, .325WSM, .338SS, etc. With no brake, in an ultralight rifle....they are going to kick like a pissed off mule. I have a couple Lone Peak Fuzion TI SAs also. One Nitride bolt only, one full Nitride. Both are very smooth. If you want to save weight, think Lone Peak Razor TI SA. Will save you the weight of the Picatinny rails and the need for heavier Picatinny rings. You can go with Talley Lightweight one piece bases. Pierce is now building TI actions with steel bolts. You gain a bit of weight, but smoother actions. The TI action and TI bolt is where they can get sticky, even with Nitride coatings. There are a few other TI actions. Mesa Crux, R700 TI. Maybe think about the Defiance Ultralight steel too. Expect to pay $1400-1800 depending on choice. I would go lighter on the contour, like a #2 or #2b. #3 fluted would be the absolute max contour I would think about. But they will be a bit "whippy". But still shootable. #3 fluted will be about the same weight as a Proof Sendero Light of the same length. So think about a short Proof Sendero Light for a stiffer barrel in the short lengths. There are lighter stocks to be had than McMillan Edge or B&C Ultralight. Manners has some, plus a few others like Brown, MPI makes some ridiculously light stocks, as little as 8oz I think. But I don't think that would stand up to a lightweight .338SS. Sub 7# rifles, while THEY may be capable of shooting accurately enough for 700 yard shots on deer, they are much harder to shoot accurately for the SHOOTER. Especially in a heavy recoiling chambering. And they sure aren't going to be fun shooting a lot of rounds to practice and get comfortable (haha, relative term) with. With that light of a rifle, to make the 700 yard shots, plan on prone or sitting with a great 2-3 points of contact and bipod/tripod. Which adds weight. I think most scopes in the 2-10, 3-12 range are plenty for hunting medium sized game out to 700 yards. Get one with generous eye relief, you are going to need it. You can eliminate a lot of the recoil/accuracy problems by going to a lighter recoiling round. But grizzly protection kind of goes out the window if you want to survive unscathed in the event of a close encounter with a pissed off bear. If I were to build a true lightweight, I would think a 500 yard shot would be about max. And grizzly protection would come in the form of a big handgun. Which adds a couple pounds. So you might as well add weight to the rifle. Lone Peak Razor TI SA @ 20oz Wyatt's extended internal magazine box @ 3oz Manners EH4 @ 22-24oz or Manners UC Ultra Classic @ 18-19oz in ADL style (no bottom metal needed, only trigger guard) Alloy trigger guard (4oz) Bartlein #1 @ 20" (24oz) or #2 @ 20" (28oz) +/- Timney CE (6oz) Hawkins Hybrid Ultralight 1-piece rings w. level (3oz) Comes out to 4.875 to 5.5lbs +/- depending on choices. Add your choice of scope to the total weight. Not that I am a big Leupold fan, but they do have some nice lightweight scopes. You can actually get some of the lower end scopes that are way lighter than the ones listed. Leupold VX-6HD 2-12x42 @ 20oz Leupold VX-6HD 3-18x44 @ 22oz or Mark 6HD 3-18x44 FFP @ 24oz Leupold VX-5HD 2-10x42 @ 18oz Leupold VX-5HD 3-15x44 @ 20oz or Mark 5HD 3.6-18x44 @ 26oz March 2.5-25x52 @ 23oz or 3-24x52 FFP @ 25oz March 2.5-25x42 @ 21oz or 3-24x42 FFP @ 23oz Tangent Theta TT315M 3-15x50 @ 28oz FFP

What are you getting for velocity with the 147 in the 6.5 Creed?

What??? I got kicked out of there about 10 years ago....

Listen to the answers. It is a mule deer. Plenty of 3x3 mule deer that could be confused with Coues. But the ears, tail, facial features clearly indicate mule deer.

If it shoots that good...why are you NOT using it?!?

That Burris XTRII has a .15MOA thick center cross. That is at 5x or 25x. Meaning at 500 yards, it covers .78" on the target. At 1000 yards, covers 1.6". I think I could live with that for a deer rifle. How about that new Gen 2XR you should be out shooting at this very moment?

All the scopes I own are FFP. Shot deer out to 637, elk out to 882, coyotes out to 1365. Doesn't seem to hinder me a bit. The reticle will not cover any more of the deer at 24x as it does on 6x. The target grows with the reticle. Depending on your reticle, a .25MOA crosshair will only cover a 1.25" area at 500 yards. Unless you can hold .5" difference at 500, you won't ever notice. You could shoot prairie dogs at 500 with that cover.

What city and approximate area?

Yep. Probably larvae inside right now if no holes....yet.

Berger states "minimum twist rate" of 1:8" for the new 156.....but that is not necessarily the OPTIMAL twist rate. I shoot the 150 SMKs in my 1:8" 6.5SS with very good results. Both on target and on game. I am hoping for 3050-3100 once this barrel breaks in with the 156. I am sure I could get a bot more with NV565 or RL26, but I will be sticking with H1000 or possibly RL23 to keep it stable, accurate and clean. I think these bullets are much better suited for the bigger case capacity 6.5s. For a 6.5 CM, 6.5x47L, .260 Rem, 6.5SLR, etc. the max I would personally shoot is a 140-143. I run the 130 OTM in my 22" 1:8" 6.5SLR @ 2888 w. H4350. I could get more, but I will take the accuracy and stability over 50fps more.