lancetkenyon

1st, a good pair of binos and a good tripod are invaluable. I use 10x42s for anything out to about a mile for my quick checks. When picking apart the county, 15x56s. Find something interesting, break out the spotter. Even my 10x42s go on a tripod when glassing. As for time behind the glass, depends on the terrain and time of day. On a 10 day hunt, I can spend from 70 to 100+ hours behind binoculars. So good glass is a must. Eye fatigue will kill your chances of finding game. Anywhere from 30 minutes, to an hour, to 4 hours. Morning/evening first/last light, 30 minutes then move and start over. Mid-morning/early afternoon, 1-2 hours then move. Midday, 3-4 hours, checking every single tree and bush, shadow, canyon, cliff, rock pile, etc. During long glassing sessions, I never look for an animal. I look for parts. I make a fairly quick pass over an area looking for the obvious, then go back over the area, picking it apart. An ear, an antler tip, a tail, legs (vertical lines), a back (horizontal lines), movement, shape, color. Work in a grid pattern. Find a landmark that splits a hillside, like a canyon or tree. Work half the hillside, from top to bottom, overlapping viewing area. Then the other half. This is a view out to about 2 miles of glassable area. Apparently, I have already glassed up something that my daughter is prepping for. Here is a pattern I use. Where I glassed up some deer. 882 yards away. Right at .5 mile. You might only get the shape and color to go by on a bull elk at over a mile away. Then pick out the antler. Wide, lightweight tripods are a must when packing glass too. I use a Manfrotto 290 carbon fiber with a Manfrotto 700 RC2 pan head. Low and wide for sitting, but extends high enough for me to stand too. My son-in-law can use it standing too, and he is 6'0".

https://www.internationalsportsman.com/fake-news-reporters-got-wells-fargo-gunwerks-lawsuit-story-wrong/

Sorry buddy. "Tan my hide" is cowboy for "whoop my butt". And I needed it quite a bit when I was a kid.

My Aunt, who passed away in January, left me two sets of lady's golf clubs. I have no use for them, so I will give them to anyone who would like them. Located in north central Phx area, near Phx Sportsman's Warehouse. They are not new, and not real high end, but free is free. Great starter sets. If they go to kids, even better.

Weird. I have had no issues mounting my adapter to my Meopta Meostar 15x56s or Meostar S2 20-70x82 spotter. For the 15s, I just run out the eye relief cup. But mine are not angled, they are twist out flat cups.

You can contact my Dad. He used to tan my hide whenever I needed it.

Awesome preservation tips!

Drayson for sure!!!

fixed it. You are definitely correct.

B reak O ut A nother T wo thousand

So I shouldn't tell you my 11 year old daughter shot her first bull with my .300RUM?

Any of the big 7s or .30s will do the trick on elk, even smaller, IF you put the bullet where it needs to go.

I am not at home, but I have loaded that combo before. Start way lower, but I got up over 90.0 with the combo. Safe in THAT gun. Think about the 230 too. I push them at 3113 in my 28" .300RUM over Retumbo.

If it is a 1:11", stick with 190gr and under bullets. They are plenty for taking elk out to 1000, and will stabilize much better. Had a guy I know take a HUGE moose with the 190 HVLD @ 650ish I think, one and done. Nosler Trophy Grade have usually been pretty accurate from what I have witnessed. 180 NAB or 190 NABLR HSM Trophy Gold w. 185 HVLD HSM Game King w. 180 SGK

Maybe not "to your exact specifications"......but you can build a custom.

Mandatory reservations there too. But at least you get 2 hrs 50 min. https://www.maricopacountyparks.net/park-locator/buckeye-hills-regional-park/park-activities/shooting-range/ https://www.shop.asrpa.com/category.sc?categoryId=53

STL has never allowed target shooting. You can hunt year round for any open game though. Jackrabbits, cottontails, "other birds and small game", coyotes, house sparrows and European Starlings, etc.

50 min? For $5 per 50 min? Only 2 rifles? No paper, only steel? Jrs only allowed in "family areas"? Guess I will continue my desert shooting. BS rules. Stupidity at it's finest.

.300WM MPR is 8.4lbs bare rifle. Add rings, scope, level, and you are going to be over 10lbs easily, maybe closer to 10.5lbs. Not your typical "pack rifle" weight range. Not a beast by any means compared to others. Your thread is "talk me out of it". Been tons of suggestions and reasons why you might consider other options. Maybe you should have left the "talk me out of it" part out of the title, and called it "I am getting this rifle".

No telling how it is stored during it's lifespan before the consumer buys it. I would be more worried about keeping it dry.

I have one in my safe right now. Have yet to shoot it. Hopefully sending some downrange this weekend. It is not a light rifle. I would not consider it a "backpack rifle". 26" barrel plus a brake is going to be long, even with the folding stock. And you can't cut it down to reduce weight or length. But it is pretty cool. I would be looking at something with a shorter barrel, in a bit lighter chambering, way less weight. You can always swap stocks if a folder is a must have feature. For $2500+, I think there are a few other pack rifles choices that would better serve your needs/wants. Kimber Mountain Ascent, Kimber Adirondack, Cooper Backcountry, Christensen Arms Ridgeline, etc. Same for the scope. Not a light scope, and not my choice for a pack scope in that price range.

The doll?

Chewing gum. Seriously, not much I wouldn't buy used as long as it is in good shape.

Load up 15 of your best load and go shoot at distance. That will give you a lot of data of what the load is doing, more so than 100 yard groups. I have been doing all my load development at distance (545 yds) for the past 6-7 weeks (since Ben Avery has been shut down), and it really shows what the loads are liking. Then checking them at 749, 851, 960. Shoot 3 shot groups at distances like 400, 500, 600, 700, 800. If you really have 80+ES, that should show up.