lancetkenyon

Every 7MM RM I have worked up loads for like RL22 & a 168 HVLD. Plenty of medicine for deer & elk both. Standard dies are fine. If you plan on tinkering a lot, the competition seating dies is just easier to alter seating depths precisely. Good Brass prep is key to accuracy in my opinion. So is shooting form. Most any factory rifle is capable of MOA or better nowadays. Most shooters are not. It usually takes a while to wring the very best possible accuracy with load development with fine tuning. The Sendero should print 1/2 MOA or better with careful workup and proper shooting techniques. Here are a few essentials: A great scale Brass prep tools (trimmer, chamfer, deburring, primer pocket, flash hole tools) Accurate digital caliper High quality components (I like match primers and match bullets personally)

6.5 STW. Nuff said.

Only had sex twice, hence my 2 kids.

Only YOUR gun can tell you the pressure limits, not a scientific formula, book or number.

If you really plan on shooting 800-1000 rounds a year, you might want two different loads. A target load, and a hunting load. I could see the barrel only lasting 2-4 years with that volume of fast hunting loads. But as a hunting rifle.....heck yeah!

Bull crap sentence.

40 yards. What is your scope mounting height and your zero range? I bet you hit low and missed the heart, breaking a rib or sternum. If that cat survives, he is going to be SORE!

Just because a family of cartridges uses the same parent case (the 06 family) does not mean each one shooting a bullet of the same SD will shoot the same velocity. Bullet weight vs. powder charge weight will negate this. Take a .25-06 shooting a 117gr. SGK Bullet at 3100 fps over 58gr. of powder vs. a .30-06 shooting a 168 gr. TMK bullet over 58gr. of powder at 2900fps. Both have anot SD of .253. Also, at distances over 599 yards, your penetration is going to drastically change due to velocity and energy remaining on target. I have not done a lot of research on SD, but I know what I have witnessed on game from various bullets. SD depends so much on bullet construction and design, you have to pick what you prefer. Deep penetration, smaller expansion, high weight retention, or less penetration, better usage of energy, frangible bullets for a wider wound channel. Personally, I have never even looked at SD when choosing a bullet for hunting.

I think the top tier glass retain 75% of their value, but not low to mid tier glass. More like 30-50% after 3+ years. I have not looked through too many spotters other than my old $300 Pentax, and a few Vortex Razor, Swaro, Leica, Zeiss. I would look at used high end if you absolutely have to have a spotter right away.

Do you want a FFP or SFP scope? There is only one Nightforce SHV that will fit the FFP bill....once it is released. The Burris XTR II line are all FFP. Plus the Burris line have a 5X magnification range, and the SHV line has a 4X range. Burris also has a no questions asked lifetime warranty. If you want a SFP scope, then only the Nightforce will meet your requirements.

Like all optics, you get what you pay for. So save and buy the best you can. If that means waiting an extra 6 months to a year (or more), you will not regret it in the long run. Take it from guys that have gone the "Buy cheap, then upgrade, then upgrade again, then finally buy high dollar stuff". You save a lot of money in the long run.

Some really great photography in the thread. I love not only high quality, but good composition photos. Great story, and good bird too.

Almost.....even my 13 year old daughter passed 85 bucks holding out for a big mature buck, and probably 25-30 bulls looking for a good one this year.

hippy That hurts my feelings. I need a safe place to escape your hate. It is called, "Out in the field".

If it were me, I would tear the rings and mount apart and Loc-tite, reinstall and torque to spec. Same with the action screws. I have never heard of Talley rings "wearing out", but I guess it could happen. Have you tried a different scope or shooter? Also, have you checked the crown? The tiniest of dings can cause all sorts of problems. Have you tried/do you have access to hand loads? Sometimes horizontal/vertical dispersion can be caused by inconsistent neck tension or seating depth changes. So can stock torque, trigger pull, etc. (meaning shooter error). I don't "grip" a rifle stock unless I am shooting offhand. I place fingertips on the front of the grip and lay my thumb alongside, and not wrapped around. Squeeze the trigger with the tip of the finger, not the first digit fingerprint area. Don't forget to pre-load the rifle a bit too (push forward a touch). Too much or too little cheek weld will cause issues too. And watch rifle cant. Make sure it is level. Parallax adjusted correctly? If not, cheek weld, eye box, etc. will cause a big shift in POI. Clean, clean, clean, then shoot a few to refoul the barrel. It could take anywhere from 3 to 20 rounds to get it fouled back in. One last thing.....wind variation while shooting? It would have to be pretty severe to cause 3" at 100 yards, but you never know.

Thanks for the jacket and beanie Vince. Let me know when you are in town, and we can hook up to get the item back you left in the pocket, unless you want me to drop it in the mail.

You can get the Harris model HB25S. That would be my suggestion. 12-25" height, swivel mount. http://www.harrisbipods.com/HB25S.html

A ton in 7W too. Saw coyotes almost every day up there on the rifle elk hunt. One evening, we heard 4 different packs in all 4 directions sounding off one evening.

How high are you looking for? I have a few. A couple bench rest models, from 6-9" high, and a taller one for high prone (almost too high for most prone shooting) and sitting, 13-27". I have Harris bi-pods, and really have not seen the need for an Atlas. I doubt an Atlas would help me shoot any better. I prefer the pivoting models personally. Makes shooting and leveling your rifle much easier than adjusting individual legs if you are not on a 100% flat surface. I also have a Bog Pod, and a Primos tripod that go into the field with me. All depends on the situation and panned activities for the day.

What is the barrel twist rate? If it is a 1 in 8" twist, try a 140 Berger HVLD. If it is 1 in 9", go with a 130 grain. You should be able to push a 140 out over 2950fps. A 130 should go over 3000fps. Best guess with the powder capacity. That is with a 24" barrel. Some photos sure would be nice to drool over.

I would LOVE to, but way too much to do before Christmas. We were going to have a nice quiet family dinner for 7, that has now doubled to 13 or 14 people. Come January, I would definitely be willing.

A lot of the smaller frame bows would be a good candidate. As she grows, you can replace limbs and modules or wheels to add poundage and draw length to fit. My 24 year old shoots the same bow she did when she was 13, and has just upgraded the limbs and wheels. A Hoyt InterTec if I recall correctly.

Out of stock now.

They are all yours.

Prayers sent to the Man upstairs.