lancetkenyon

What do you consider "capable of long range"? Hunting elk and deer @ 500? 750? 1000? 1250? 7RM is very capable in the hands of a skilled shooter and with a proper bullet choice. Many cartridges are as well. Some more so, some less so.

I use H1000 for my 7RM w. 168/180/183 gr. bullets. Not the absolutely highest velocities, but great accuracy, clean burning, and temperature stable. I ahve also worked up loads for a few other 7RM for other guys and RL22 seems to always work very well. Good speed, good accuracy w. 160 to 180 gr. bullets, but pretty temp sensitive. About 1fps per 1° of temp change. But get a good accuracy node worked up, and the velocity change doesn't mess with accuracy, and your ballistic program can compensate for the velocity changes.

I did not specify components. The owner of the rifle delivered what he wanted his final load to utilize. While some of the components would not be my first choice, the overall results worked very well, and should put anything in AZ down with authority. The brass was an excellent choice, and I use some of the Nosler brand brass myself for other cartridges. Primers were a great choice, hard to beat Fed GM215M for a magnum primer. Bullets fly great. Good weight for an all-around hunting bullet. Good construction as well. BC is decent. So should perform at reasonable hunting ranges. I have had better accuracy results from the Accubond than the Accubond LR in every flavor I have tried. My personal preference for bullets tend to lean towards a green, yellow, or orange box. But the results don't lie for accuracy in this load. Powder is not my first choice, but works very well for this application. It is a viable choice however. Temp insensitivity is not as good as some, but much better than others. From all I have read by numerous experts and tests, I think IMR7828 varies about .5fps per 1° of temp swing from testing temps.

Bushing dies just allow you to play with actual neck tension. An adjustable die vs. a fixed neck size.

Hornady has had some issues in the past year or so from a lot of what I have read. I like Redding dies myself. Their basic FL die set is just a bit nicer and easier to adjust than RCBS. And the competition set is really nice. The only thing I prefer on RCBS dies is the set ring on the die body is a hex nut vs. a knurled ring, so you can lock it down tight with an adjustable wrench vs. a pipe wrench for the Redding. But either one will get the job done just fine. If you plan on shooting a lot, and really gettjng into precision loading, I would suggest the competition seating die. While not mandatory, it makes seating depth adjustments much easier and more accurate. You can do the same with a standard seating die, but it just takes a bit more practice. I measure each CBTO for my rounds, and adjust by .001 or even .0005 if needed to stay consistent. Easier with the competition seater with the graduated marks for ever .001".

I have found RL22 to have approximately 1fps per 1° in temp changes. So a ladder test is critical to determine a range of velocities for your accuracy node, and try to work your load somewhere in there to correspond with temp and velocity variations to keep them in that range. I have worked up numerous 7RM loads for different rifles using RL22 and a 168 gr. bullet. But I personally prefer H1000. H1000 is known for fantastic accuracy potential. RL22 can usually get slightly higher velocities, but you get the temp sensitivity. Retumbo will also yield slightly higher velocity than H1000, but it is a dirty burning powder. I think you are on the right track with your progress. All of the steps of brass prep, and reloading steps might only net .05" better accuracy potential each, but combine them all and it adds up. Another thing that really adds up in accuracy is the rifle set up. Proper torque on all bolts, bedding, floating, etc. Trigger pull weight is a big one too. The final step to accuracy is proper shooting set up, form, and a lot of practice utilizing the proper form. One fantastic set of videos for reference is "The Art of Precision Rifle" by Magpul. I have watched it probably 6 or 7 times, and still learn from it. I have it saved on my computer if anyone wants to download it on a flash drive.

Sounds like the bullets are jammed hard into the lands with a tight neck.

Here's my report....I still didn't get drawn.

I have one of these that I got from my great-grandmother when I was 5 or 6. I have killed hundreds of lizards, rabbits and squirrels with mine. Super accurate.

Something Accurate. Long range or all day carry mountain gun? Personally, I would pick something in the .257, .264, .284 range, fairly low recoiling. Not much different than my muley guns. I have a couple. .25-06AI, 6.5 SLR, .260 Rem. If I needed to really stretch it out, I have a 7RM or .300RUM, both pushing heavies at a good clip.

You can't go wrong with taking the entire front half into your taxidermist. I basically tube them out, and cut the leg bones below the knees, and tube it to the base of the skull. Leave the lower legs and skull inside.

I also have a brand new rifle in my possession in a new wildcat cartridge I am about to start load development on. Rifle specs: R700 LA, 28" #3 fluted Benchmark 1 in 8" twist, B&C Medalist "Weatherby" style stock, Timney CE trigger. Will have a APA Micro Bastard brake on it in the future. Cartridge is yet unnamed, but based off a 6.5-.270 Ackley Imp. 40°. I can contact the builder for price if you are interested. But my 6-24x56 Kahles does not come with it!

http://www.coueswhitetail.com/forums/topic/63335-remington-700-custom-65-06/

http://www.coueswhitetail.com/forums/topic/65827-custom-tikka-260-fs/

1. Family 2. Hunting 3. Good reading material....like this thread.

Still takes shooter input.

Those bastards! How dare they talk about shooting and hunting in a gun store!!! What is this world coming to gentlemen? I realize that most of your posts are playing "Devil's Advocate" or just to stir the pot, and I appreciate it most of the time. But you have to admit, whether you post it publicly or not, that the comment by he salesman was ignorant. Any rifle, even a $10,000 custom rifle in .338 Lapua with $7,000 optic won't make "Anyone capable of killing an elk at 1000 yards". The rifle certainly would be, but not every SHOOTER is capable.

If it shoots as good as my .260 Rem that Todd built, buy a freezer. You will need it ro hold all the meat you will be bringing home. Mine shoots sub 1/4" groups with 140 HVLD & 95 V-Max hand loads.

Awesome, just awesome.

It is ALWAYS hunting season. Lions, coyotes, etc. So there never is an "off season" to limit camera usage to adhere to "in season only" guideline, if there was one imposed.

Do you have a source for thos information? I would love to know for sure one way or the other. I have seen trail cams up already this year, or still up from last year. Someone is going to have some funny photos on two cameras I found in 7W if they are still functioning....

Always.

Never in a Savage, but I love my Timney triggers. I have a 510, and two Calvin Elites. Also a Shilen Match. I will be buying my third Calvin Elite soon for my last remaining factory trigger which is set at 3#. I like the Timney a lot better than a Jewell HVR personally.

I figure weight sorting, like primer pocket uniforming and flash hole deburring, is a one time deal, and can't hurt. I don't know if I can shoot good enough to tell a difference, but eliminating some variables can't be a bad thing. And even if all of those minor itwms add up to a .05" difference, a one time step is a benefit in the long run. I still haven't trimmed meplats yet.

Nice! I have a bunch of rounds loaded up for a brand new wildcat and rifle, but couldn't force myself to brave the heat either.