lancetkenyon

If you have not annealed before, you are changing neck tension. Going forward, if you continue to anneal, you will now have consistent neck tension. If your shooting conditions were anything like mine this morning, accuracy was a lot tougher to come by. 25+mph winds had me calling it quits after just two hours and only about 20 rounds total in 2 different rifles.

Starting another one for a member's daughter. Going to be a blue/grey American Flag theme. This is a test stock to verify what she wants. Start of base colors Base colors complete. flat white, and 3 colors of light to medium grey Masked off the stars area and hit the "field of blue" with 3 colors of blue and 2 colors of dark grey Then stripped the masking off to dry and I will start the stripes this weekend.

Are you the guy that I met at Ben Avery two weeks ago? When I was out there with my daughter? Welcome to the club! Remember, watch out for that a-hole I was telling you about...

Either will kill a deer or elk at 1000 with proper bullet placement. But if you are shooting both with heavy for caliber bullets, the .300RUM pushing a 210 @ 3100 beats a 26 Nosler pushing a 160 @ 3200 by about 250ft/lbs @ 1000 talking just energy.

When you bump the shoulder back, start long, and turn the die down ever so slightly, rerun it, and measure the shoulder datum. You want between .001-.003" of shoulder bump back. No more. .001" is a tiny amount to turn the die down, so measure carefully. Even locking the die down tighter or looser in the press can make a .001" difference. I have a mark on my press, and when I get my die set and the lock ring tightened down, I Mark the lock ring to match the mark on the die. Makes it easy next time you spin in the die to make sure you are in the same depth every time.

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Done. Been a while since I cleaned it out.

Bears are an apex predator. Not just a scavenging omnivore. Not much to scare them off in the wild. Other than another bigger bear. Which humans are not. I have seen an AZ bear come right at people before. And trust me, I would not consider it "tame". Just not afraid of a smaller animal. I don't see how someone can say these bears that are baited are tame? That blows my mind. If you think so, I would be interested in seeing you try and feed them from your hand or give them a pat on the head. If you feel this strongly about hunting over legal bait, I think you should reevaluate hunting over water, salt, or a food source again.

For myself, a mature animal. Doesn't have to be a monster. Taylor was the same way last year. We passed 80 bucks, and the 5 big ones, we couldn't seal the deal. Hoping to change that this year. Starting out looking for a big one, half way through, probably any mature buck will be on the hit list. I really want her to tag out on a buck this year. 2 years ago for bull elk, she took a great 1st bull. Last year, we were after 1 specific bull. Came home empty, but a great time. This year she drew a cow tag, so she just wants some table fare. She liked it when I would thank her every night at dinner for giving us our nightly meat. My older daughter this year has a 7W bull tag. She says anything legal is going in the freezer. Her husband has the same tag, and will start off looking for a decent bull. I am sure he will shoot anything with horns after day 3-4. It will be his first ever elk hunt, and only his second big game hunt ever. I can't wait!

People hunt animals over "bait" all the time. Water holes, doves on fields, deer in oak stands, ducks/geese over ponds, coyotes over carcasses, etc. Many states allow baiting. No way was this a tame bear. Tame would be the high fence canned hunts where the animals associate humans with food, not a 55 gallon drum with food. That bear wanted the people out, not walk right up to them for a handout. 14"+ of penetration with a 3" wide cutting surface equals a dead bear quick. Just as fast as a broad head I am sure. Humans have been killing bears ever since we could think of a way to sharpen a stick. Why not continue if you have the cojones to do so? This guy was more efficient than a lot of people here who shoot an animal with a rifle or bow and can't recover it. Just saying.

So I have found my .260 Rem and 6.5 SLR load for the 127 LRX. Here is the .260 Rem pushing the 127 LRX @ 3017fps. .335" 5 shot, 100 yard group. Pretty acceptable for accuracy doing nothing but charge weight testing. And here is the 6.5 SLR pushing the 127 LRX @ 3050fps. 5 shot 200 yard group...shot by Taylor. .383" @ 200 yards. Still working on the 7RM load pushing the 168 LRX, but yesterday, I had 3 different groups that were under .750" 5 shot groups @ 3040-3080fps.

TTT

I got out on Sunday and shot for some groups. Best load wound up being 76.0gr. H1000. Shot into .533" @ 100 @ 2920fps average. Other groups were all about 1", some a bit under, some a bit over. Pretty happy with the lack of vertical dispersion. 5 shots I got home and resized the brass bumping the shoulder back .002" and tumbled them. Loaded up some more for seating depth testing this coming weekend. All measurements are CBTO. Shortest is .005" shorter than Berger's recommended COAL measurement. 2.820" 2.780" 2.740" 2.700" 2.660"

How hot are you getting the brass when you anneal? Usually brass cracks when it gets too hard, or if you way over anneal and shorthand and ruin the brass. It only takes 4-7 seconds depending on make and cartridge.

If you plan on shooting to 500-600, you better get to practicing. A load developed for YOUR gun would be best. Otherwise, start with a couple good boxes and try them out to see what shoots best in your rifle.

I think I have one camo hooded sweatshirt, youth L. I will check tomorrow. If you want to drive for it, it is yours. I am in north central Phx. area.

Coach gun! The scariest thing an intruder will ever see. Beside a naked 90 year old grandma.

If you can't find a smaller one, the 12' UTV trailer is not too heavy. I have pulled it behind a Tacoma before.

I agree with that scope being fairly heavy. Even though all of my scopes are chunky, all over 30 oz. If you are going to put that heavy of a scope on, might as well go for a 4-20, 5-20, 5-25x range. Several quality glass that are in the $1000-1300 range that weigh between 30-35 oz. I hate to say this, but a light weight FFP scope of any quality is hard to find. I was in the same boat as you for quite a while. Really only a couple options. Either just so-so glass, limited features, or high prices. I have heard good about the Sightron. March 3-24x42 @ 22.5oz $2100-2700 March 3-24x52 @ 23.5oz $2700-3000 Leupold Mark 6 3-18x44 @ 23.6oz $2200-4400 Sightron 6-24x50 @ 24.3oz $1000 Vortex Viper PST 4-16x50 @ 22.4oz $900 Vortex Viper PST 6-24x50 @ 23.4oz $950 Vortex Viper HS LR 4-16x50 @ 21.4oz $850 Vortex Viper HS LR 6-24x50 @ 22.4oz $900

What size? I have an 18' dove tail flat bed, and a 12' UTV trailer you could use.

Don't ever hesitate with going with a nightforce product!!! I run Nightforce NSx's on my 7mm Rem Mag and custom 338 Lapua. Some will claim others are superior however when it come to durability and most importantly TRACKING of turrets a Nightforce is really hard to beat!! Only other Scope I would choose over a Nightforce is Schmidt and Bender........ However the cost does not outweigh the advantage. Get it you won't regret it I promise!!! What about Kahles? Hensoldt? Tangent Theta? Premier? Vortex Razor Gen II or AMG? Steiner M5Xi? US Optics? Leupold Mark 8? Just asking. Are these more $$ than the NXS? Yes. But performance-wise, all top tier optics. But similarly priced for most to the ATACR F1 or Beast.

If you have your chrono at 15' or so, plug in your numbers to your ballistic program and use that as your muzzle velocity. Look at what you lose in the next 15', (probably around 22fps) and add that number to your number to get a very close true muzzle velocity. I doubt you will see much of a difference except a few inches at distance.

246 on the ground. 4 in the box.